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Old 2006.04.14, 09:44 PM   #1
signal21
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ball diff help

ok so i tried to search on how to install ball diffs. Although there are alot of threads on these, none if which helped me.

so i have an atomic ball diff and its just a ball diff and an o-ring. now i took off both wheels, slipped out the stock diff, put in the atomic ball diff. now heres the part i dont know what to do. theres an oring, i figured i should put it on the axle of the ball diff. i had to tighten it tight so the axle doesnt move. if i didnt put the o-ring on then the axle would be loose. even with the oring on, only my right side would spin. the left doesnt spin.

i've also got the mzr dry bearings. i dont exactly know where the 3 big bearings go. here is where i put them. 1 in each rear wheel and the last one, i replaced the bearing that was on the ball diff. help me out. thanks
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Old 2006.04.14, 09:58 PM   #2
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As far as the bearings. You should have 7. 6 the same size, 1 the hole is alittle larger. The 6 that are same size...2 go in each front rim. 2 go in motor pod where axle goes through on both sides. the 1 larger one goes in rear rim on diff side. As far as diff. If your talking about rubber o ring, if diff has one on where the adjustable nut is, then its a spare. If its a small metal washer, slide it on diff axle all the way to adjustable nut, then slie diff axle through motor pod. Hope that helps.
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Old 2006.04.14, 10:36 PM   #3
jason barnes
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diff

hey signal , if you go to setups on this site there is a bunch of stuff on diffs. i took the liberty to write some interesting ones down . (ball diff locked up) , (diff and wheel problem) , (ball diff issues) ,( ball diff problem ), and ( ball diff) some times surtan rims make the diff tight . the other day i put different rims on my car and it felt tight . i put the same ones back on and the car was fine . hope this helps man ............jb
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Old 2006.04.14, 11:16 PM   #4
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Bearings:
4x 2x6x2mm (Front wheels)
3x 3x6x2mm (Rear axle, 1 on outside of right rear wheel)

Diff:
The O ring is there as an extra. You do not install it unless you need to change the old 0 ring.

When you install the diff, you want about .5mm of play on the axle where it goes through the motormount (this will prevent a pinch).

Insert the diff through the motormount (with both bearings in place), put axle end wheel adaptor on the end of the the axle (with the grub screw loose), tighten the grub screw down onto the flat part of the shaft just enough for it to hold it in place, but still have a little movement. If you have a thin flathead screwdriver, place that between the wheel adaptor and the motormount and push the wheel adaptor towards the motormount while holding the other end of the diff against the motormount and tighten the grub screw on the wheel adaptor fairly tight. Try not to overtighten, as this will tend to misallign the wheel on the shaft (it may tilt). then put the left wheel on (using 2 bushing, one 3x6x2mm on the inside of the wheel and one 2x6x2mm on the outside of the wheel). screw on wheelnut until there is no wobble on the wheel.

If you overtighten the rear right wheel, the diff will not work properly, it will be too tight. You want the wheels on tight enough so there is no wobble, no tighter.
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Old 2006.04.14, 11:38 PM   #5
signal21
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what about that screwable part closer to the motor pod, is that supposed to be really tight?

edit-emu, i've helped me with all my problems so far. i got another for you guys. i got a motor mount, the atomic version 3 and everything is fine except that the mount seems too high. i have a damper plate system and it has springs on both sides of the plate and the bottom one is almost completely compressed because its high, what should i do? i dont think it will perform correctly like that. thanks in advance.

Last edited by signal21; 2006.04.14 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 2006.04.14, 11:52 PM   #6
jason barnes
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diff

hey signal , that screwable part thats next to the pod . is to adjust the tightness of the diff . to set this you need to make sure the diff is not sticking or hanging up or the adjustments you do will not work properly . to adjust this loosen the nut thingy till you here the diff slipping when you punch the gas . then slowly tighten the nut till the slip goes away . do this in small amounts so that the diff is perfect for the way you drive .hope this helps dude ...............jb
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Old 2006.04.15, 12:00 AM   #7
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On the side of the motormount, there are 3 screws, 2 to adjust the mesh of the motor to the diff, and one to adjust the height of the damper post mount. Loosen the screw that goes to the damper post mount and let it settle so that both springs on the disc damper are even (I usually like the lower spring to be slightly compressed) then tighten the screw again.

If the ride height is off, then you can adjust that by changing the bearing holders in the motormount. It comes with 2 sets, one for 0 and one for 1mm adjustment (either up or down depending on the orientation).
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Old 2006.04.15, 12:02 AM   #8
jason barnes
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mount

hey signal , forgot about the other question . where you mount that on you mounted it in the wrong spot . the one that goes to the bottom spring needs to be the last thing to screw on . i mean there are three things that screw to the bottom of the pod . the spacer shim , the t-plate , and the spring mount .first the spacer , then the t-plate , then the spring mount . screw them on in that order . then it will have the clearence your looking for ..seeya ............jb
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Old 2006.04.15, 12:09 AM   #9
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EMU, i stand corrected on the bearings. Its been to long since i had to install any.
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Old 2006.04.15, 12:12 AM   #10
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is there a problem if the damper height adjustment is touching the motor..

thanks for everyone help.
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Old 2006.04.15, 12:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signal21
is there a problem if the damper height adjustment is touching the motor..

thanks for everyone help.
As long as it is straight, and not bent it should be fine. Make sure your mesh is good, and the post is not crooked.
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Old 2006.04.15, 04:08 PM   #12
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ok just to verify the bearings, 4 up front, 2 in the motor pod, and 1 on the outside of the left or right wheel?
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Old 2006.04.15, 04:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signal21
ok just to verify the bearings, 4 up front, 2 in the motor pod, and 1 on the outside of the left or right wheel?
That's correct except use right wheel. OR spur side wheel.
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Old 2006.04.15, 04:38 PM   #14
signal21
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so theres just a plastic bushing on the left side?

one last issue, at least thats what i think, i put everything together and it seems like my right turns are sharper than my left. i have my epa all the way up. could it be that the damper plate system might be touching the motor mount and restrict it? they could touch but i dont think turning would make the damper plate move that much to touch it although its close.
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Old 2006.04.16, 02:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signal21
so theres just a plastic bushing on the left side?

one last issue, at least thats what i think, i put everything together and it seems like my right turns are sharper than my left. i have my epa all the way up. could it be that the damper plate system might be touching the motor mount and restrict it? they could touch but i dont think turning would make the damper plate move that much to touch it although its close.
2 bushing on the non spur side wheel, one 3x6x2mm on the inside of the wheel and one 2x6x2mm on the outside of the wheel.

For the turning issue, try loosening the spur side wheel slightly and see if the issue persists. Also check the motor wires, and make sure they do not interfere with the damper. Check all screws on the t-plate. Make sure that the ball diff is not too tight. You want it loose enough that you can move the spur with your hand while holding both rear wheels still, but tight enough so it is not very easy to do so.
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