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Old 2020.01.05, 10:44 AM   #1
arch2b
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Martini Racing Porsche 911 GT3 RS

Martini Racing Porsche 911 GT3 RS

Materials:
Kyosho Porsche 911 GT3 RS unpainted autoscale
Krylon Fusion Gloss Black
Krylon Fusion Gloss red Pepper
Krylon Fusion Satin Rolling Surf
Krylon Fusion Matte Ink Blue
Krylon Fusion Metallic Silver
Tamiya Flat Black
Future Floor Polish
Pattos Prsche935-936-Mrtini-24 decals, 1/27 scale, clear vinyl in custom inverse color scheme (not yet installed)

As is customary for me, I took the last two weeks of the year off to unwind around the holidays. I had planned to spend some time on custom paint jobs and ordered a batch of decals from Pattos however I had not factored into my plans that Pattos would be on vacation as well...DOH! So, with ample time available and a ridiculous backlog of decal sets on hand, I completed the Kouros ZR1 and got a jump on what turned out to be one of the most ambitious selections I've done to date. I've done some very intricate detail work in the past and nothing prepared me fully for the time and difficulty in doing a 5 color paint job. I've always tried to stick to 3 color jobs at most but I've always wanted to do Martini livery. I had a Martini livery custom in the past done by someone else and always admired the work that went into and now have a greater appreciation for the work itself.

I started with the base layer of silver. This was easy and the Kyrlon Fusion Metallic Silver went on thin so 3-4 coats total. Thankfully, the metallic cured solid unlike some others that continue to rub/flake off.
Next up was red. Given the limited coverage, this wasn't so bade and Fusion Gloss coats tend to go on thick so I know this was going to be quick. Always go in lite coats at first to ensure your not saturating the tape which can lift. I used a technique on this job in which I layered the mask along the edge in multiple layers that get wider at the top. This proved successful as paint bleed was limited to a few locations. What made this difficult was the varied body contours that had to be masked.
Red was followed by light blue. These were stripes that grew wider and decided it would be most efficient to lay them down next and then paint dark blue over top to reduce overall masking which only gives more opportunity for error. Best to work light to dark as well. These went down without issue.
Final stripes were the dark blue. This challenging and stressful as I had to mirror the sweeping curves and used copious layers of mask tape. I ended up going through nearly two rolls of tape on this job.
Last but no least were the black front and rear skirts. I know the Krylon Fusion Black in particular goes on heavy so it would cover the prior stripes OK. As long as you remain patient and go slow, you reduce opportunity for paint leak.

What proved more challenging than fine intricate mask cutting was simply laying out repeated stripes that all had to remain straight, proportional and consistent as well as mirror each side. This was in itself the hardest part and as the number of paint layers increased, so does the anxiety as you really don't know how it turns out until you start pulling back the tape. It would have been devastating to get 3-4 colors in only to have a bleed that botched the whole thing. In the end, there is likely two days time in masking alone. I remained calm, took my time ignored the rolls I was burning through and the results rewarded me with a most satisfying result. I still don't have the decals, which are still 3-4 weeks out so I can't clear coat this until those are on.

Base layer silver


Masking off the red


Masking off the light blue stripes


Masking off the dark blue stripes


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Old 2020.01.05, 10:47 AM   #2
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Finished paint









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Old 2020.01.05, 01:17 PM   #3
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Incredible. I am in awe.
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Old 2020.01.05, 01:40 PM   #4
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Old 2020.01.06, 12:50 AM   #5
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Is that Tamiya masking tape?

When you are spraying a fine, masked area like those stripes, are you laying down enough paint for a "wet" finish, or is it light mist coats and live with the not quite glossy texture?

For me, whenever I spray it thick enough for a wet coat, it seeps under my mask, and endless mist coats never leave a smooth finish.
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Old 2020.01.06, 10:31 AM   #6
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I do some fine mist coats to ensure there is enough to provide seal to tape before going with wet coat as Tamiya tape is prone to bleeding under heavy coats if the edge isnít firmly adhered and or a light coat at the edge to assist in preventing bleeding. You want enough paint to get good coverage (translucent) but not enough to pool at the tape line. After the light coats dry for a couple hours, i usually start with the wet coats and get about 2-3 of those. This contributed to why this one took so long as the process in itself is simply time consuming and had to do this with each color pass.
After the light coats i review the masking closely to see where it is loosened and before each successive pass, push down along all the tape lines again right before applying the next coat wet coat. It does still bleed at times but Iíve gotten far better at it over time. The next problem after that is making sure the tape doesnít take up the paint with it... that can happen with heavy wet coats and or when the base layer hasnít adhered to the previous layer for whatever reason. When it all goes right, it works fantastic. Iíve had a higher success rate with Tamiya tape than liquid mask or other tapes. I havenít tried the green tape Iíve seen some others use, looks more plasticky than Tamiya and may provide a cleaner edge but thatís just a guess until i can find out what it is.
Has anyone tried fine automotive mask tape? I wouldnít even know where to begin looking for that as Iím sure you get lots of results and at this scale, need very fine masking. I typically run stripes or details at 1-2mm cut strips and full coverage with the 18mm tape.
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Old 2020.01.06, 11:53 AM   #7
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I'm pretty new to the white bodies, as in still working on my first corvette body. But I've done a ton of lexan stuff.

For hand laid stuff I really like the Tamiya masking tape for curves. Its 2mm wide and a soft resin type and really seals well after running your fingernail along it. Has done really well on the white body so far.

I do have the Tamiya yellow paper masking tape but have not been brave enough to try since i've had such good results with the other.

After that its just blue painters tape to mask the large areas. I find though if you dont put good pressure when applying, it will lift sometimes after spraying.
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Old 2020.01.13, 12:47 PM   #8
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I know you use primarily Krylon, but wondering how much time between painting and then laying masking tape on top of that paint. I've had a lot of trouble lately with the tape affecting the finish of the paint underneath, even after a full day of drying time. Creating a stucco-like texture where it was glossy.

Just had this happen recently using airbrushed Tamiya acrylic paint, but have experienced it with others.
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Old 2020.01.13, 04:34 PM   #9
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Iíve had issues with masking over most metallic paints in general. Thus my surprise to find the Krylon cured hard and smooth. I typically like to wait at least a day before i start masking over another color. Iíve pushed this to as little as 4 hours before however this was limited coverage areas that were painted and tape removed in less than 6-8 hours. In general, i try to leave tape on only long enough to paint and pull off as my constant fear is orange peeling the layer below or pulling paint up with the tape. Iíve had tape orange peel more with Tamiya paints than anything else and primarily metallics.
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Old 2020.01.13, 09:15 PM   #10
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Just WOW, one of my favrite liveries. You knocked that one out of the park...
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Old 2020.01.15, 04:40 PM   #11
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Great job on this body. it looks fantastic.
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