2011.03.14, 09:24 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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How to install V2.2 board on MR-02
Anyone knows which wire connects to which wire? As the installation guide on web was for xmod n not for mini-z.
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2011.03.14, 09:32 PM
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#2
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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Here you go!
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2011.03.14, 09:39 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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sorry i'm quite noob here. what's EP?
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2011.03.14, 09:46 PM
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#4
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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EP stands for Electronics Package, but if you're new, you probably don't need to worry with this upgrade now. Although it works with a Mini-Z, this option was designed for XMODS and I haven't seen one on a Z.
Are you trying to run Lithium cells on an MR-02?
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2011.03.14, 10:19 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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not going lithium yet, tried someone's car with fets n felt not bad. So i was thinking of this. But no idea which mini-z wire should connect to which section of this board?
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2011.03.15, 06:21 AM
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#6
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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The main purpose of the v2 board is to allow you to run 7.4v or more (I think up to 12v) of Lithium power to the motor, but only 6v to the board. When more than 6v was applied to the Gen1 XMODS boards, the servo motor would chatter excessively, thus the idea to regulate the voltage to the board. If you're not running lithium, you're not taking advantave of this main feature.
I think a better option would be upgrading (replacing) your FETs or adding a layer on top of the stock FETs. This would cost less and would all be under the chassis cover. Nevertheless, if you're hell bent on it, the v2 can be done!
To make this work on your Z, you'll need to do the following modifications using the image I posted previously:
Step 1 - Run power directly from your battery compartment to the inputs on the v2 (top set of holes). Use new thick guage wire for this step.
Step 2 - Run power from v2 (3rd set of holes) back to main board where wires from the battery compartment originally connected to main board. Here you can use the stock wires that connected from terminals above battery compartment to main board if they are long enough. Leave connected to main board on one end, just desolder eyelets? and solder to v2.
Step 3 - Connect motor output wires from main board to v2 (using 2nd set of holes). Its OK to use stock motor wire here, although direct soldering it to main board instead of using screws to connect would be better.
Step 4 - Connect v2 board to motor (using bottom set of holes) using some quality thick guage wire.
These new connections should replace all existing connections. Also be sure to observe polarity (+ to + and - to -) with ALL connections.
Good luck!
Marwan
Last edited by Traveler; 2011.03.15 at 08:11 AM.
Reason: Add clarrification to steps :)
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2011.03.15, 08:04 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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Wow thanks alot... Your info was great!!!!
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2011.03.15, 08:15 AM
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#8
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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Glad I could help! Below image from AtomicMods site is from the Gen1 XMODS v2 Installation tutorial. I think its a little more intuitive than the Evo installation, plus the below image does a good job of helping one visualize the connections (even though it shows a Gen1 board and has a Deans plug to connect to Lithium cells).
Good luck!
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2011.03.15, 08:57 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler
Glad I could help! Below image from AtomicMods site is from the Gen1 XMODS v2 Installation tutorial. I think its a little more intuitive than the Evo installation, plus the below image does a good job of helping one visualize the connections (even though it shows a Gen1 board and has a Deans plug to connect to Lithium cells).
Good luck!
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Just a simple drawing. is it like this?
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2011.03.15, 09:09 AM
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#10
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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2011.03.15, 09:28 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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Thanks bro for the help.
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2011.03.15, 09:49 AM
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#12
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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No problem Just be sure to double and triple check your polarity as you go... And do consider a FET upgrade first if you liked your friend's car. The v2 may not give you the same feeling. Just trying to save you the cost and frustration I experienced looking for something better...
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2011.03.15, 11:36 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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Care to share what u experienced? Many friends asked me not to waste time on my 02. And was adviced to go for 03. What u think?
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2011.03.15, 01:00 PM
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#14
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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The experience I was referring to was the constant (and very expensive) search for the latest and greatest speed advantage or upgrade.
I ended up building insanely fast 1/28th cars that had to be driven on tennis courts or other wide open spaces because they were too fast for smaller areas. When I got into racing, those super fast cars didn't do very well on RCP, and I learned that to go faster, you must go slower.
Seriously, when your car is too fast for you to drive, you can actually do more laps with a slower, more drivable, car. And that, my brother, is the most important Mini-Z lesson I've learned so far... To go faster, you (sometimes) must go slower...
And don't forget the 2nd most important lesson... Don't forget to have fun!
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2011.03.18, 06:38 AM
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#15
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RC addict
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Pilipinas
Posts: 227
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Can I use a servo pcb with the V2.2board instead?
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