2006.04.01, 06:26 PM
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#1
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live slow, drive fast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
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FireLap 2.0 Problems?
I was wondering what problems people have experienced with the FireLap 2.0? I searched the forum and found that quite a few had problems with the integrity of the main chassis, softening, cracking, etc. But, I was wondering if there were any other problems to be aware of? I figured the servo savers might be an issue, but anything else I should be aware of?
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2006.04.02, 07:27 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 913
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I have purchased 3 Firelap 2.0's myself and had 1 problem with 1 of them. Out of the box one of them had a bent steering knuckle. The part that the Tie Rod attachs to was bent causing alot of toe out. Overall I think I have had good experiences with these clones.
On the other hand one of my friends got a Firelap 2.0 and it arrived with a cracked chassis and a bent steering knuckle. So out of the five total that our group has gotten we had problems with 2 out of the box.
Outside of that for three of the cars we have had to replace the knuckles with aluminum knuckles but I think this is more a result of our crashes than a quality defect.
Overall I would rather buy 2 Firelaps instead of 1 Mini-Z but I know most here would disagree.
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2006.04.02, 07:52 PM
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#3
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live slow, drive fast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
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pinwc4,
Thank you, This forum seems more mature than the others I have visited.
It appears then, that you only had problems with the plastic, and not the electronics? I was already planning to replace much of the car with delrin or alloy where applicable.
Would you recommend then, replacing the tie rod and knuckles with alloy and buying a kyosho skeleton chassis, or should I wait and see if it needs it?
Thanks again.
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2006.04.02, 08:39 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 913
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I am glad you asked as I had forgotten something. On 2 of the cars I replaced the stock motor as it was slower than a kyosho stock motor. The motor quality seems hit and miss as a couple of the guys got motors that were fine but the top speed of mine with an 8 tooth gear was the same as theirs with a 6 tooth gear.
For your questions it just depends on what you are looking for. If you are wanting a car that you can be confident that will survive a race without breaking something then yes definately replace the knuckles.
Outside of the car that came with a cracked chassis we have not had any chassis problems. I will post a video of us racing soon so you will be able to see that we are really sloppy drivers so our cars are taking a lot of abuse in collisons. Once we get better we will not be breaking as much.
I have still used a plastic tie rod as I fear if I put in a metal one that my servo saver will be more likely to break. I did forget to mention that a couple of guys did break the plastic pin on their servo saver. We replaced it with a screw and it has been fine since. Again I believe this is still related to our really poor driving skills. For the point series we are the MZ2 guys at the bottom of the list so we have a lot of improving to do.
Don't give much weight to what I say though as I have only been running these cars since November, there are much more experienced people here I hope will chime in.
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2006.04.02, 09:03 PM
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#5
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live slow, drive fast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
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pinwc4,
It appears then, that you’ve been generally happy with your firelaps besides the quality control on the plastic parts? I was expecting some problems and those don’t seem too bad, thank you for the advice.
I will be running on my rcp track with a field of xmods and other firelaps/iwavers and was wondering what people suggest in the way of upgrades? I was thinking ball diff, bearings, tires, and x-speed motor but would appreciate any recommendations.
Thanks
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2006.04.03, 11:07 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 913
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Yeah we are happy with our Firelaps especially because of how much cheaper they are.
Getting better tires is a must for the RCP track. The stock tires that come with the Firelap were softer than the tires that came with the Mini-Z but were still too hard for what I wanted traction wise. I personally like running 10 degree rears and stock fronts on my MM and 20 degree rears and stock fronts on my RM Firelap on the RCP track.
If you alreadys have RCP track and a lap counter you should join in on the How Fast Are You Online Point Series (HFAYOLPS)
Only stock electronics are allowed so that is what we have stuck with. The stock motor is fast enough for our RCP track configurations we have had no desire to go with a faster motor.
I have installed BB and a ball diff in my primary car but did not really improve my lap times as a result. I still need to practice my driving to really improve my lap times.
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2006.04.03, 12:02 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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I can't give you any advice about the firelaps as I haven't owned one. I can give you a few pointers as to upgrades.
I personally thing you should go with bearings, and tires are a must. I like the GPM 8* for the rear and 10* or 15* for the fronts. As far as a ball diff goes the Kyosho ball diff is the best. if you don't want to spend the money I would recommend just staying with the stock diff as it will be fine running in stock form.
Alloy knuckles will be needed eventually because of driving and probably colliding with the rails and other cars, especially while you are beginning. you can also buy the alloy knuckles with camber on them. I like the 1* knuckles with a 1* toe in steering rod.
One of the best things you can do to help the handling of the car will be adding a disk dampener to it. there are several makes out there but the all pretty much work the same.
Hope this helps.
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2006.04.03, 02:30 PM
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#8
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live slow, drive fast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
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Pinwc4,
I own an rcp track but not a lap counter, so I will be unable to participate in the points series, it is, however, a very good idea. Glad to know that someone had a relatively good experience with firelaps. I have had 3 01 pros, one self-destructed five seconds after being turned on, the other two have been great. They’ve taken all sorts of abuse and one still runs. The other, was the poor victim of an xmodder and someone who had never touched an rc in his life. A 01 with an x-speed pro and a head on collision with an xmod don’t mix very well.
briankstan,
Thank you, I bought the firelap 2.0 with an iwaver ball diff, bearings, and tires for the time being. I will be looking to place an order from the shop and was wondering if I should get the kyosho alloy knuckles, or if I could get away with another brand? Is the kyosho skeleton chassis as strong as the normal kyosho chassis? Someone had voiced there displeasure that the skeleton chassis were now made in china and felt weaker but is it still worth it? My driving skills are fine and I won’t be very hard on the car but the xmods will be, so any other parts that you think might break?
Thanks Again
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2006.04.03, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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I don't think you need to get the K knuckles. I run the GPM knuckles and a GPM 1* toe in steering rod.
One other thing that you might want to consider would be stainless Kingpins. They can greatly improve the smoothness of the front suspension. PN has some great ones.
I have heard the the Clear Chassis' are weaker than the solid color platic chassis. I haven't changed mine so I can't give you first hand advise on this one.
even though you don't have a timing system you can compete in the HFAY Time Trials.
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2006.04.03, 06:08 PM
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#10
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live slow, drive fast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
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Briankstan,
There are no mr02 specific gpm knuckles in the shop; I am assuming that the ones that have no label are 01s which do not work on the 02?
Thank you for the advice, I will go ahead and add the king pins to my list.
Are the mini-z racer.com dry race bearings really that much better than normal bearings? The search button turned up little more than “These are great”, or “These Rock”, but are they really that good?
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