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Old 2020.05.29, 03:15 PM   #1
arch2b
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Oakley McLaren 12C GT3 2013

Oakley McLaren 12C GT3 2013

Materials:
McLaren 12C GT3 2013 unpainted autoscale
Krylon Fusion Gloss Black
Krylon Fusion Matte Fire Red
Future Floor Polish
Pattos AudR8GT3-Oakley-Bathurst12Hr-2014-24 decals, 1/27 scale, clear vinyl, background colors removed (not yet installed)

This was another request from a good friend. I adapted an Audi R8 livery to the 12C with some creative license. Getting some of the decals to cross over sharp body line relief areas was a bit tricky but turned out nicely. The 12C has very deep relief areas on along the sides. I had to cut the rear wing lettering by hand as the scale of the decals for the wing was simply too large.

First layer was Fire Red. Second was Gloss Black, then decals and finally clear coat.

I can never get the mirrors on the 12C to lay flat. the slot in the glass always pushes down and cants the mirrors upward.









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Old 2020.05.29, 04:30 PM   #2
smokey_truck
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One more great looking work, you do the best.
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Old 2020.05.29, 07:03 PM   #3
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Awesome work Arch2B. More impressive that you're doing all this from rattle cans, that is skills. After years of thinking about it, I finally got an airbrush on the way, you've inspired me. Got two 1/28 mini-z size tributes cooking of two classic Tamiya 1/10 kits. I'll need to practice on something else though as the two bodies I'm using are hard to come by and I've never airbrushed before.
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Old 2020.05.29, 07:05 PM   #4
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by the way, are you just masking all this with tape or are you using liquid mask?
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Old 2020.05.29, 07:29 PM   #5
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I buy Tamiya 18mm mask tape in bulk. I cut it down if I need thinner or smaller pieces, like the red pinstriped downforce skirts. KWT gave me some automotive pinstripe mask tape but I don’t have the skills yet to use it effectively. It stretches if you pull on it too much laying it out. I’m still practicing that bit myself. Compared to the Orange ZR1, this was simple.

Email me your address, I have some bodies you can practice on. Practice it the best recipe.

Take a look at the gallery pages for the customs I post, more often than not I upload pictures in stages as it goes so you can see how I mask it up.
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Old 2020.05.30, 09:34 PM   #6
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That turned out really awesome, arch2b....every time you pull some "artistic license" you inspire me.
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Old 2020.06.03, 03:27 AM   #7
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Cool livery

Cool livery this one!

Soulstice: I don’t know about Arch2b but I personally use automotive spray cans for convenience and because you can get automotive paints that are decently strong, especially when sprayed correctly. With the airbrush, which I love too, you can get much thinner layers and potentially a much better paint job, but I hate airbrushing with smelly enamels. If you were planning - like I was - to airbrush with Tamiya acrylic paints, bear in mind that the paint will be really easy to damage even when cured for a log time, those are not paints designed to be tough.
However- and this is a big plus- Tamiya acrylics completely dissolve when you submerge the car body into warm water with the ‘Oxy’ stain remover powder, the powdery stuff you can buy in any supermarkets, the one for removing stains from clothing. This for me was an awesome find as I painted and fully erased my first bodies when I started airbrushing. You can strip stronger paints off a shell too but you have to use nasty chemicals, I never wanted to try that stuff. With Tamiya acrylics, the paint is so soft that the Oxy stain remover works beautifully and quickly, and it’s all done in a bathroom sink with no nasty chemicals and no mess, it’s that easy.

Another tip: if you like really good finish, and use rattle cans (or even airbrush ) the trick is as you must have heard from everyone, to be patient and spray several things layers. However, if you want truly professional result and mirror finish, you have to use sand paper of various grit (down to very fine) to wet-sand every layer you paint, or at least the primer layer, the last paint layer and the gloss paint layer. The gloss paint layer can be wet-sanded and also polished for a mirror-finish. You do this and your paint will look perfect, even if your spray job has issues, as the wet-sanding will address those issues. Wet-sanding carefully does take ages though, makes you use more paint, it’s a labor of love!
Wet-sanding also gives you access to even more cool finishing techniques that automotive static modelers use, for example wet sanding the clear coat to make the decal thickness and edge disappear..
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