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Old 2018.02.18, 04:16 PM   #1
Zeromerk89
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So I bought a used MF-010

Like the title states, I bought a used MF-010. Paid $60 bucks for it. 27mghz car, came with a ball diff, carbon suspension plates and a couple extra sets of tires and pinion gears. Picked up another used MF-010 at Maj's this past Saturday. No body, no suspension plates, no radio. It does, however, have an X-Speed motor installed. Both cars have bearings through out.

I'll start with the $60 MF-010. It is an absolute dog. My MR-01 is faster. Looks to be a 9t pinion on the stock motor. I'm really unsure about the specs on the tires. While I was at Maj's I picked up more tires for this thing than I will probably ever need, ranging from some PN 6*, all the way up to Kyosho 40* tires. I'd have to finish digging through the bag of goodies before I can take inventory.

I cannot go around a turn quickly in this thing. After reading a lot on here, I understand they are a different style of driving. It's very possible I don't have it yet. Tires are probably the issue. Not having a rear roll damper or shock is probably not helping.
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Old 2018.02.18, 09:51 PM   #2
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Exactly what happens when you try to corner fast? You said you can't but why exactly is the issue?

Check out this thread for some interesting tidbits on making stock F1s function well:

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38559
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Old 2018.02.19, 01:14 AM   #3
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F1, the base setup is Kyosho 20 degree rear tires, with either bald 30 in front, or scuffed in 40 in front. New 30 in front will break traction in the rear easily.

I almost exclusively used yellow front springs, occasionally used the green when using 40 fronts.

I feel that a top shock is a must in f1, and I would usually remove the side springs or use the softest to get a little more rear compliance. A disc damper, or Kyosho friction damper is very beneficial.

For side plates I would remove the middle screw to lengthen the effective side plate length for downtravel. This reduces the inner rear wheel from lifting in a corner and the differential unloading. if you have any spare stock knuckles, you can cut down one of the axles for each side and place them in the location that you removed the screw from. This allows travel, but keeps the rear pod from shifting laterally. It just keeps the rear end in line more or less.

One very key factor for the f1 is the differential, you need to glue those rings in place on the aluminum diff halves. If you don't, they will slip since they are not keyed. To ensure that they are sitting flush, put a couple drops of glue (applied with a toothpick) on the mating surface of the aluminum, then place the diff ring on, and twist the ring in place. Twisting it will spread the glue, and keep it flat.

There's not too much to do on setup for a stock f1, but these little changes can really make the car a pleasant driving experience.
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Old 2018.02.19, 08:09 AM   #4
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Thanks guys.

The rear end steps out immediately is what happens.

I did notice the inside tire seemed to lift on the turns. I'll pull the screws tonight. I'll need to find and purchase either the shock or friction plate for the rear as well as a spring kit, it's entirely to sloppy upon further inspection. I tried a pair of PN 8* slicks last night and found the rear steps out much easier. I'll be pulling and tossing whatever tires are on the car and starting fresh with known compounds tonight. I'm thinking of buying another set of wheels as I don't find changing the tires to be enjoyable.. lol.

I'll also pull that ball diff apart and do what you suggested as well as clean and regrrase it.
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Old 2018.02.19, 09:06 AM   #5
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Ordered a couple of spring kits and a rear motor pod/disc damper from Kenon just now.
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Old 2018.02.19, 04:51 PM   #6
cowboysir
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check out mini car club of Canada they have a bulk wheelset with different offsets that are reasonable and it can give you width options
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Old 2018.02.19, 09:00 PM   #7
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Update.

Replaced the front steering knuckles with a pair of RT246 0 degree alloys.

Replaced the worn steel kingpins with PN stainless kingpins.

Replaced the stock front springs with the yellow pair from the MZW4 kit.

Removed the middle screw on the suspension plates.

R&R'd the ball diff. cleaned it, scuffed and glued the pressure plates, some fresh Tamiya ball diff grease. I just have 3 or 4 of those tubes lying around, might as well use it.

Changed the pinion gear from a 9 to a 7.

Threw a set of new 40* Kyosho tires up front, aaannnddd 10* tires out back. I don't have any 20* tires yet. Those 10* tires are sticky like silly putty.

Car seems a whole lot more compliant now. Took a video of my second set of laps in it. I didn't go for long, the dog was getting anxious, she loves to chase. lol

I have a couple of Kyosho X-Speed motors laying here. Think it would help this thing power wise?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3UB8mfyLpo

I don't recall seeing a rule about video links. If they are not allowed, just say so and I'll delete the link.

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Old 2018.02.19, 09:10 PM   #8
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I wouldn't upgrade the motor yet. When you feel like you can run 15-20 laps without errors and cannot get more out of the car, then think about upgrading the motor.

You can try dialing throttle trim forward or backwards a little to adjust drag brake a little. This will adjust the attitude of the car off throttle entering the corner. The window of adjustment is a little small before losing the brake function, but little things can have big effect on consistency.
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Old 2018.02.19, 09:30 PM   #9
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I've tried this. The car still runs a 27mhz radio. Throttle trim adjustment makes the car move, or at least start to whine. I'm still looking for the appropriate ASF board for it. I feel more can be achieved using the EX-5UR I have every other car running on. I'll always have errors I think. Difference here is the F1 really gets stuck under the damn curb. lol

Nevermind the crap about the radio. Figured out what you meant. Seems to be a bit glitchy towards the end of my track. I'm excited for the friction plate damper.

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Old 2018.02.19, 10:12 PM   #10
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For use with Kyosho wing (pre asf) after asf there was a change to the wing design.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/AE...ionId=43016651

Stand alone
https://www.shapeways.com/product/RY...ionId=43017777

It's a definite improvement to the Kyosho bumper... seal the outer edges with nail polish to allow it to slide a little more...

As for circuit board, almost any brushed ASF will do. The tiki tiki model was the one that I liked best.
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Old 2018.02.20, 11:17 AM   #11
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I'll keep an eye out for the ASF board.

What exactly does Tiki Tiki do? I've read about it. Not sure I understand it, or how to use it. Lol
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Old 2018.02.20, 12:33 PM   #12
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It was the second iteration of the MR03 ASF board, it had a "chase mode", which isnt very relevant as the mode wasnt really used, but it had a cleaner signal than the original MR03 board, and felt like a little faster response.

In F1, the MR02 ASF board was prone to glitches, possible due the the battery orientation, we dont know exactly why F1 glitched more than the MR02 did. The first MR03 board was better, and the Tiki-Tiki model was the best that I had used. Any ASF board is miles ahead of the the AM. The conversion is fairly straight forward.

Here is some information about a clone ASF PCB board that is about half of the price to the Kyosho...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/search...archid=2884405
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Old 2018.02.23, 03:16 PM   #13
Zeromerk89
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Thumbs up

Rt246 roll damper and spring set for the rear came in. I'm in the middle of install as of last night. Buddy of mine called to talk about his SECOND Mini-z purchase 👹. Plan is to install the red springs from the rear spring kit. Test laps will happen tonight once finished. I'm glad the RT246 part was an entire motor mount being that the original plastic one was apparently cracked, probably my fault.
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Old 2018.02.23, 06:13 PM   #14
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The mount should be pretty good. Be sure to use a little blue thread lock on the screws that go into the metal. The vibration can rattle them loose.
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Old 2018.02.23, 09:36 PM   #15
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Done. The difference is unreal. It corners. Ran a few sets of batteries through it with errors limited to the dog, and radio glitch. I do have a habit of rubbing the wall on the back straight, its like a magnet to this car. The car feels so much smoother now. Installed the red springs out of kit MFW02, left the roll damper dry.

I think the stock motor decided it had had enough, no power what so ever. Even with fresh batteries. In went the MZW8P X-Speed motor. Speed has not changed, but power delivery is much better. It is also quieter, and more responsive.

Is there a specific pinion gear I should use with this motor?

I cannot thank you enough for the help with this. Its turned into exactly what I had worked the F1 up to in my mind.
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