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Old 2010.06.08, 11:01 PM   #31
herman
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nice read... must have been a bummer that you had to change out your board after doing almost everything...

happy to hear that you got everything in order after replacing the board...

couple of questions though... what motor were you using after you swapped fets? does it go back to half power even if you use the stock motor? if it doesn't maybe you could still use the board for stock races... what fets did you use to replace the old ones? you might want to hold on to the fets on the old board.. don't know when you will need them...

Last edited by herman; 2010.06.08 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 2010.06.08, 11:28 PM   #32
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Herman, I think he has only used a PN 70t motor in the car, before and after the issue.

At the least, this will be helpfull for others that may have similar issues...
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Old 2010.06.09, 03:30 AM   #33
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thanks for the info emu...
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Old 2010.07.06, 01:53 PM   #34
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Hi everyone,
Just bumping this because I had a similiar issue last night. New MR03 and the motor died after about 4 mins. The motor was a new PN 32turn. Oddly enough, I had this car running fine on an Xspeed the week before, so it maybe the new PN 32 is too hot for the stock MR03 electronics. Also, this motor is sold without caps. It was really, really fast before it died! I'll try the xspeed again and see if it runs for over 5 mins.
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Old 2010.12.19, 09:24 PM   #35
Mike Keely
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Originally Posted by JuniorWKR View Post
so after replacing the fets and taking it for a few laps around the track the car felt great... i didnt touch the cat again till our next race night... got out in the first qualifier and the car was blazing... half way throught the qualifier the friggin thing went back to half power... i swapped the motor and went back out for second qualifier and it was fast again... and once again half way through it died... i tried everything... motors, batteries, differnt presets using the handheld programmer.... no matter what i did as soon as the motor got hot the board died down... i wound up just replacing the board...

every thing is ok now as i ran 5 straight packs of batteries and the car never lost pace... but i sure would like to know what went wrong with the board..
I have this same thing happening but I put a new board in the car and it is still doing the same thing. The only thing that I have not done is changing out the chassis.HELP!!!
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Old 2010.12.19, 10:16 PM   #36
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maybe you should check your gear mesh. maybe it's too tight. my friend fried his fets because he set-up his gear mesh too tight.
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Old 2010.12.20, 05:16 AM   #37
Mike Keely
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No, that's not it. The mesh is fine. Tried three stock motors. Running 12 pinion and a 54 spur. Thanks though.
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Old 2010.12.20, 12:15 PM   #38
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Hi Mike,

You may try the following:

Electrical:
-replace your motor wire
-solder your motor wire to the board (click here)
-make sure the connection between the +/- board wire to the battery tabs are tight, not loose (mine is not solder btw, but I always check them. Soldering them would be best).
-I'm sure you've tried replacing your motor with new ones but, have you tried borrowing someone else's motor that works? Maybe try that also. It's possible to get bad motor from the same batch.

Mechanical:
-make sure rear tires are not rubbing on the body.
-remove pinion and check if your rear diff can move freely if you spin it by hand.
-make sure the motor screws are not too long
-some motors, when tightened on the motor screws tends to bind inside. I dont know why but I'm thinking its the bushing or the screw holes are off center but anyhow, check on that also.
-check the rear pod bearing cups and make sure you're using the same and in the same position. OFF center shaft can also cause resistance=over heating motor.

Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Keely View Post
I have this same thing happening but I put a new board in the car and it is still doing the same thing. The only thing that I have not done is changing out the chassis.HELP!!!
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Old 2010.12.20, 09:19 PM   #39
Mike Keely
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Checked all of this. Not using the stock rear pod. Using a PN pod. Sending the PC board back to Kyosho. Thanks MK
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Old 2011.02.14, 09:36 AM   #40
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Had a very similar issue Saturday. Fet's are new and have run fine for two or three practice sessions but over the weekend car seemed ok at first then fell off a cliff. The car we be ok for about 30 seconds before really slowing down. After a 5 min qual the motor was really hot, hotter then it should have been. Tried more then one motor. Broke down the motor that has been on the car for weeks and there was uneven brush wear. I checked the voltage and amp draw to the motor(no load) and seems ok I guess. Voltage is very close to power coming from cells and amps stay under 2 if you punch it. Is this problem usually the board? Thanks

Last edited by vash; 2011.02.14 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 2011.02.21, 09:23 AM   #41
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suggested to me it might be the pinion. Switched pinions making sure it was on tight and my issue seemed to go away
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Old 2011.10.10, 11:46 AM   #42
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i've had a similar problem with stock motors in my mr-03. took brand new box stock motor and after 5 minutes it's nearly hot enough to melt the stock motor pod. the overall speed drops off significantly after a few minutes. the chassis is stock, brand new, running in kyosho stock class. the motor was box stock, brand new.

i changed pinions, no change.
i went to a lesser tooth pinion, no change
i changed to another stock motor, no change.

there is something about my stock chassis that is making motors go thermal nuclear.
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Old 2011.10.10, 01:00 PM   #43
egonzalez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
Hi Mike,

You may try the following:

Electrical:
-replace your motor wire
-solder your motor wire to the board (click here)
-make sure the connection between the +/- board wire to the battery tabs are tight, not loose (mine is not solder btw, but I always check them. Soldering them would be best).
-I'm sure you've tried replacing your motor with new ones but, have you tried borrowing someone else's motor that works? Maybe try that also. It's possible to get bad motor from the same batch.

Mechanical:
-make sure rear tires are not rubbing on the body.
-remove pinion and check if your rear diff can move freely if you spin it by hand.
-make sure the motor screws are not too long
-some motors, when tightened on the motor screws tends to bind inside. I dont know why but I'm thinking its the bushing or the screw holes are off center but anyhow, check on that also.
-check the rear pod bearing cups and make sure you're using the same and in the same position. OFF center shaft can also cause resistance=over heating motor.

Good luck!
Hey Mike,

The motor screws the hold the motor in place can cause binding against the armature. I have had the same exact symptoms and that was the culprit. Not all motors have the same amount of spacing from the can to armature…
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Old 2011.11.06, 12:03 AM   #44
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anyone else had any success in fixing this problem? i'm thinking about emailing kyosho support to see if they have a solution.
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Old 2012.06.19, 06:01 AM   #45
johndo
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We also having motor overheating issues with brand new MR03 and Life batteries. We changed gearing, aluminium motor case but problem exists. After 7-9 minutes cuttoff and only steering is working.

We remove motor capacitor and the problem dissapears. We don't want to do that because affects motor lifetime.

Any suggestions?(We don't want to change FET because the board can handle 7.2V ov Life.
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