2009.05.02, 02:41 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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Soo, what ball diff is this one?
Looks like kyosho, but not fully. Looks like Atomic, but not fully. Works great so far- I rebuilt it w/ a lower tooth # gear that didnt bind with lower pinions and thus rebuilt it. Alcohol cleaned the inner parts and used my 3R DDS lube(only thing I have and I've tried Glidex bearing oil with poor results, so I cleaned up and used 3R stuff).
I find this way the easiest and i'm sure everyone does it the same way.
Edit: I did some digging and came up with an odd hybrid that this prolly is:
-3R diff casing and shaft
-PN main gear and prolly 10 balls
So whats the actual Kyosho diff and gear like? What about actual 3racing then?
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Last edited by Skv012a; 2009.05.02 at 03:40 AM.
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2009.05.02, 03:35 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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That looks pretty much like an old 3racing diff with 3racing steel shaft and a PN spur to me. The diff hubs, left wheel hub and shaft look the right color to be 3racing parts. Kyosho shaft is either black, or a very shiny silver for the Ti-shaft, and Kyosho hubs are usually a richer shade of blue. My old diff was a Kyosho with a 3racing Ti-shaft.
Of course it's also possible that you got a Kyosho diff with a 3racing steel shaft, but that's one of those "...why would that ever exist?" things, so I maintain that yours should be a 3racing unit.
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2009.05.02, 07:54 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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Read that 3Racing were supposedly based on kyoshos, so I'd assume they work the same way? So far I really don't have any complaints about this other than the fact that I didn't use the diff lube which may have caused some side effects Im not aware of yet.
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2009.05.02, 10:32 PM
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#4
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Hack Job Driver
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NoVA
Posts: 604
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That definitely looks like a 3racing diff to me. I belive this version (II?) is adjusted in a manner similar to Kyosho, Atomic, etc. Just dab a bit of lubricant (kyosho hobby grease if you have some) on each of the balls. Too much will just make a mess.
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2009.05.03, 01:10 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Verde, I followed atmocmods tutorial minus lubing the plates' backs to help them "stick" to the outer holders. It seems to work OK, but sounds just a little unhappy. I re-did my pinion mesh, so now it's probably the diff's fault if anything.
Should I keep the lube on the balls and the disks' surface facing the balls, or just the balls and keep everything else dry?
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2009.05.03, 02:50 PM
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#6
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Hack Job Driver
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NoVA
Posts: 604
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It's really up to you how much/what you lubricate. I clean everything and sand/flip/replace the rings as needed, then put a small dab of grease on each ball (once they're in the spur). You really only need to lubricate the moving parts, anything else will just attract debris and make more mess to clean up IMO. I've known people who run diffs dry, and others who run them with every internal surface lubricated...it's not as if you have to do it one particular way for it to function. This is just the way that works for me (and seems most efficient).
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2009.05.03, 09:43 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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Reason I asked was because it sounds pretty loud and its not even the gear mesh this time. So the metal plates inside don't move, but rotate with the left and right outer casings? It seemed to me like the plates were rubbing the inner area of the big gear creating all the noise.
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2009.05.03, 09:46 PM
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#8
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Check that the blue plate holders are not rubbing against the bearing in the center... This could be a major problem with how the diff works. You may have to modify them like the Kyosho diff.
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2009.05.03, 10:57 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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And what would that mod be? Its my first ball diff and they're not something I learned yet. Didnt have to rebuild my MA 3R diffs because the spur gears worked just fine with the pinion.
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2009.05.04, 02:01 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 648
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Another tip: You should always remove your batteries when not using your car, it's bad for your board and batteries.
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2009.05.04, 02:18 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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As far as I know this precaution only exists to save your electronics from a possible battery leak during long storage(say 1+ month of NO use whatsoever), not because it affects the electronics otherswise. My cars get daily 1-5 minutes, so its fine.
I will concur with removing batteries while working on ANYTHING that may short the battery tray circuit because that will fry the car. This goes triple for AM cars with bare antennas.
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2009.05.04, 02:40 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 648
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I does not effect the electronics it just keeps drawing from the batteries.
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2009.05.04, 03:31 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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But what does it draw when its off? Regular AAAs will discharge regardless of being connected to something whereas hybrids will be fine regardless.
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2009.05.09, 01:05 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
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One more quick question:
Why does it make the extra noise when I add throttle past a certain point and after that point? Pinion grinding or something else? The diff itself is very smooth and feels good when handspinning.
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2009.05.09, 01:31 AM
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#15
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Sounds like there is something vibrating. Try putting a 3x4mm shim between on the outside of the bearings on the motormount. You may be rubbing the adjustment nut against the motormount slightly. Also, try a tiny dab of glue on the bearing holders to the motormount and bearings to the holders... to keep them from moving/vibrating. You dont want to use a full drop, just a tiny amount applied with a toothpick.
What motor, how long have you used it, when was the last time you cleaned/lubed it?
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