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Old 2013.12.16, 02:28 PM   #31
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I had a serious try it on the RCP track. I found that the car become more responsive as I mentioned before. I need to use one level up hardness for front springs so as to make it slightly under steering. I am able to achieve 0.5s faster in a 10s track. One thing worth to mention, it holds the shell tighter than the stock chassis does.

The stock brushless motor works well with Lipo. It provides a very liner acceleration.

It is pricey but in my opinion, it worth as I look for something good looking and performing.
pics an detail on build? what used etc..
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Old 2013.12.16, 04:39 PM   #32
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Just picked up a sponsorship from X-Power. I'll post a build up and my impressions to address some of the concerns raised in this thread. Hopefully I will be able to get my hands on this before the year ends. I'll keep all of you guys posted.
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Old 2013.12.16, 07:50 PM   #33
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Congrats Stephen. Look forward to your write-up.
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Old 2013.12.16, 10:50 PM   #34
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Hope that you try a pn double a-arm on it because if it does indeed work than this will likely be something that I may try. Best of luck
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Old 2013.12.17, 01:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Congrats Stephen. Look forward to your write-up.
Thanks! It looks like we both haven't posted on these forums in awhile.

Quote:
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Hope that you try a PN double a-arm on it because if it does indeed work than this will likely be something that I may try. Best of luck
I doubt I will be able to get my hands on a double A-Arm setup over here. However, I will test to see how the stock kyosho lower front suspension and other variants fit. As well as the top Kyosho servo gear cover from MR-03's. This should be a good indicator that the double A-Arm setup will bolt-on.

As far as I know, there are not any other manufactures that produce replacement MR-03 servo covers other than X-Power. Can anyone confirm this?
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Old 2013.12.17, 02:59 PM   #36
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atomic does.
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Old 2013.12.17, 04:27 PM   #37
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atomic does.
You are right! I may have one laying around somewhere to try out.
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Old 2013.12.17, 10:23 PM   #38
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I am so looking forward to get my car. Also looking forward to putting my goodies on. Front suspension and rear suspension. When I get my car done .i will post my pictures
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Old 2013.12.17, 11:12 PM   #39
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Here's a pic of how I did the top.
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File Type: jpg 20131217_210316.jpg (493.3 KB, 143 views)
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Old 2013.12.18, 10:50 AM   #40
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Here's a pic of how I did the top.
Pretty clean, going to the track tonight Danny?
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Old 2013.12.18, 11:41 AM   #41
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Yeah I'll be there tonight. Got to break it in.
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Old 2013.12.18, 02:27 PM   #42
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Nice! seeing that you were able to instal a reflex front end, the only other thing I would need to do to mount the dbl a-arm would be to shave down the chassis on the bottom. This chassis might just be the next innovation for Mini-z.
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Old 2014.01.01, 11:58 PM   #43
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No sure do your guys experienced heat issue in using stock BL motor for Lipo battery? I noticed in Xpower FB that they are going to release specially designed BL motor for Lipo battery. It's good news to me though I can still live with Kyosho one's heat!
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Old 2014.01.04, 02:59 PM   #44
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Ok so I just bought the chassis and here are my first impression (I will post detailed pics of the chassis and how to install pn a-arm front suspension later):

Pros:
1. Easy Lipo use
2. use's standard and ve board
3. Includes different t bar holders to accommodate 86-102 with the use of standard t bars and dps systems.

Negatives:
1. screws strip on first time trying to unscrew them and it isn't my driver because I have the losi set and haven't had a problem using it with the pn screws.
2. Requires modification to fit pn dbl a arm besides the usual cutting of the chassis.
3. With the weight of the thick carbon middle chassis and the metal top deck the cg is much higher.
4. Way to expensive for the very little bit you get, they should have included everything you need (front end, rear pod, dps, springs, diff, bearings) for the price they charge.
5. Shipping, even though I bought it through Maj's hobby shop, it took them forever just to ship but if for some reason they decide to ship on time it gets to America pretty fast.
6. Front part of the chassis where the suspension bolts on is an independent two piece design and although it is aluminum it looks fragile where the two pieces connect.
7. batteries are 15 grams lighter than regular nimhs (now i know why they released the weight kits)


Although the top deck is very heavy it would have been a nice feature if there was more weight at the bottom of the chassis. All in all this is a good idea and an easy way to use lipo and hopefully it will hold up and will do good lap times.

*Edit*
Pictures:


Their front toe bar cover piece (left) compared to pn dbl a arm. Important to note that the pn piece won't work so to keep those little pins in I put some thick grease on the pins and did some tests and they aren't coming out but you have to use a very thick grease like ball diff lube.

From this side you can see how the servo is mounted. FYI you have to put the middle carbon fibre board support in before the servo and servo gears otherwise the top cover won't close over the pot and servo wires, found this out the hard way…

In this picture you can see where I cut the front servo cover. To get it nice and even like i did you have to cut it with an exacto and then sand it on top of glass.

Picture of of the batteries, they aren't the best and they throw the cg off since they are 15g lighter than r1 990.


Just some install pictures. One thing I don't like about using the standard servo top piece is it leaves the pot unprotected. Also you may have to trim the chassis where the toe bar goes in since the opening is slightly too small and causes binding.When you install the dbl a arm you have to be careful since a regular dremel sanding drum won't work, you have to use the thin metal cutter and shave off quite a bit towards the front.

Ok their screws are the worst. The threads are shaky and the heads are so soft. If you look one way to get them out if they are stuck is to heat up the tops of them with the dremel and then to put your driver in, they bend when they get hot so they formed around the tip of the driver. Only do this if they are in the bottom of the chassis like these, if you tried to cut a slot in these the chassis would be ruined.

Lastly this is a comparison shot. The Mrx is 4g heavier but since the batteries save 15g it is 11g lighter total. Which means that it is 153g with body and batteries. I could save weight with my pn screws and a plastic front clip and my light weight diff.

Last edited by DMALMAD; 2014.01.04 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 2014.01.04, 08:39 PM   #45
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Also one thing that is cool about the chassis is the dos washers go into the dps plate before you install the chassis which makes it a lot easier.
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