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Old 2005.04.17, 12:07 PM   #1
Chezedog
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The Ultimate MR-02

Suppose someone wanted the ultimate MR-02, for racing.
What parts/mods would be required?
What would it cost?
Who could build it?
Any/all opinions on the matter appreciated.
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Old 2005.04.17, 01:10 PM   #2
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It all depends on where you want to go racing. Is top speed your goal? Great handling on a small track, large track, etc. Conditions and goals will determine what is 'ultimate'.

But where I race (RCP track made up of 4 wide L's), this is what most people run:

body: Mclarens are extremely popular, but in general, MM cars are what everyone runs.
tires: GPM 8's, 10's, or 15's. Atomic 20's. These are all popular - you need to try out different tires to see what works for your driving style and setup.
bearings
ball diff
Atomic or PN motor pod. GPM also works but is less popular.
Atomic damper. Some people run the kyosho oil damper in addition to this.
Stainless kingpins.
GPM alloy steering knuckles. 0, 1, or 2 degree depending on tastes.
graphite H-plates.
personal transponder.

In the non-FET class, the Atomic stock is a favorite.

If you run modified, a FET stack and fast motor is in order.

That's kind of a summary of what most competetive people run. If you are really trying to build an ultimate car, then AD band stuff would should also be included in that list.

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Old 2005.04.17, 07:14 PM   #3
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Demick is absolutely right. If you wanna go all the way with the ultimate MR-02, then go AD band. I can agree that I am a victim of someone who has been addicted to the mini-z cars. You can check out my gallery to see some of my collection.

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/gallery/Roger
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Old 2005.04.18, 02:01 PM   #4
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!!COST!! Who cares about cost when you could have the 'ultimate' mini-z. Work to live! And live to mini-z!!! Every true mini-z racer has atleast 1 or is building 1 car they call their 'spanker'. Everyone loves to spank and be spanked.......Ummm?? did i just say that out loud?
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Old 2005.04.18, 05:51 PM   #5
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We were going to offer fully built pro-level chassis for experienced R/C racers looking to get into Mini-Z, but with a price tag of $400-500 we decided against it. The cars were going to include Adband, gold terminal chassis, aluminum motor mount, disk damper, h-plates, springs, toe and camber pieces, delrin wheels, sticky tires, kyosho ball diff, kingpins, FET upgrade and mod motor.
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Old 2005.04.18, 05:58 PM   #6
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Fet upgrade on a AD band board ? Are you stacking them or just replacing the 3010 Hitachi mosfets inside ? Thanks for the 411.
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Old 2005.04.18, 06:00 PM   #7
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We never went through with it. I will probably be stacking on top of the Hitachi 3010 since they are decent FETs to begin with. If anyone really wants, I will remove and stack pure 4562.
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Old 2005.04.18, 06:00 PM   #8
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the pricing is the only thing i think that really puts a hold on the mini-z hobby. at $400-500 i think the potential buyer list would be very small indeed. take nml for example.... his setups are considered thefastest you can get pre-built but the market for them is very small.
also, check out pro-z's custom offerings... i doubt that there have been many sales of those due to price alone.

everyone may want a spanker, but not many are willing to pay that kind of premium for it. for the most part, the continuation of this hobby depends on the entry level guys to keep bying and modding. if the kyosho usa move reduces into level pricing i think you will see a jump in the mod market as these buyers mature into faster/better cars.
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Old 2005.04.18, 07:35 PM   #9
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I agree with you arch2b about the affordability of the ultimate spanker, but you have to admit that when you get home from a day of racing with friends or fellow club members you think to yourself "what upgrade could i buy and install that will get me back up there." And you know you've felt that litlle bit of an evil giggle in the back of your head as you go to the track with your car that has just been secretly upgraded with some Hanger 18 part. Ofcourse part of it will be from the showing and the telling of what you did to get that little bit more out of it . But none the less is the appeal to make it sronger, faster and more agile in the persuit of the (in the tone of a really deep announcer voice)"ULTIMATE MINI-Z"
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Old 2005.04.18, 11:39 PM   #10
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Ultimate? Fastest lap time, top speed, most versatile? On what type of surface? How big, or technical?
I agree it certainly can get expensive!
How about ceramic bearings, and differential balls since your looking for the ultimate? By the way a 1/16Ē ball differential uses 2 bearings so thatís 12 balls and 11 bearings total, 11 you say? Yep donít forget the 2 in the motor.

(No AD band, just not a KoPropo fan, M8 w/stock board and 2x3 4562 FETs, looking at the 3PK though)

Ever tried to drive a mid mount MR-02 with a hot motor and large gears on a large scale asphalt surfaced track?

Without practice and the right set up itís the ultimate joke not the ultimate car. Motor, gears, tires, springs, camber, etc. all needs to be matched to the track. Shoot even battery selection can be part of the equation depending on the length of the race.
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Old 2005.04.19, 02:13 AM   #11
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I just got a new Helios and compared to my old Mars I'm not liking the feel. It's very M8 to me, so you might like it. The benefit of the Helios AdBand module is well worth it (ARS and digital servo?), even though I hate the look of the Helios. I hope eventually I can get the feel I like.

BTW, how the heck do you get those Atomic 10's to hook up? They have waaay too much squirm for my taste. Feels like running full height foams on 1/12.

As for the diff, I'm not a big fan of the 1/16" ball as they tend to not be as consistent for some reason. I've always hypothesized that the smaller ball diameter tends to pit the rings easier, but I've never bothered to try proving it. The 3/32" ball is the standard for pretty much all of the modern cars and you can get some REALLY nicely matched high-grade balls in that size. Just build up the Kyosho diff like you would a 1/12 and you'll be set.

As for being able to afford the ultimate mini-z, that's the main reason we decided not to offer this package. $400-500 just is too much to swallow at once for most people, even the die-hard racers. I think that if you add up all your expenditures, you'll have easily broken that number though. If you really think about it, $400 for a full race setup with electronics and motor is a pretty smoking deal, so long as you can get over the stigma of "it's just a toy mini-z"...
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Old 2005.04.19, 04:18 AM   #12
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Did you get those Intellect aaa from i n t e g y ?
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Old 2005.04.19, 04:44 AM   #13
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The atomic tires, I like them if I can get and keep them on even and straight, they do get real squirrelly if the grooves are even just a little off, have taken to using glue over double sided tape and changing the wheels not the tires. The ones in the photo are actually 30ís Iíve been playing with this car on a large concrete oval with a surface like medium grit sandpaper.

I really hated my first 1/16Ē GPM diff, but after adding grade 5 ceramic balls and new thrust washers (the functional parts) it was much better if not exactly worth the price, the new GPM plates are much better and they seem to be using better balls too, however the only reason I would even consider getting a GPM diff is if you plan on replacing the balls at least, and it's way too easy with the coarse thread, hex nut, and a wrench to damage the plates and/or balls. Most of the other Mini-Z differentials including the Kyosho use 1/8Ē balls, I use Kyosho Ultima replacement plates for the thrust washers and grade 5 ceramic balls in them too.

LoL, I donít think anyone truly likes the way an M8 feels you just get use to it and it works. I keep looking for something new, and mostly hoping that the unlimited channel crystal-less digital revelation would hurry up and get here.

I purchased the Intellects from RC Kenion, not convinced that they are true ďhi current/fast discharge cellsĒ seem more like a compromise, but I do like them enough to order another set.

Last edited by LBRC; 2005.04.19 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 2005.04.19, 09:29 AM   #14
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Only the old school MR01 diff uses 1/8" ball. MR02 and F1 use 3/32" which is pretty much the standard in 1/10 and 1/12 diffs.

As for the crystal-less era, I think that the Helios with Mini-Z module for <$200 + Spektrum module for your other 1/10 is pretty much THE hot setup. With AdBand of course...
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Old 2005.04.19, 12:16 PM   #15
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there is somethign to be said for taking a stock mini z and adding "hop ups" and seeing the result...but then again it is nice to buy a "factory team or pro kit" and have a race competition car out of the box. $400 isnt too bad when you consider $300 for the car and stack(figuring ad band is $100 or so more)...$30 for performance bearings...$30 for a K diff....$30 for damper $30 for rear mount $10 for H plate...$30-40 for a good motor...$10 for a knuckle set...its close to $200 in hop ups (now I feel bas as to what I spend on hop ups ). So yeah its a good deal.

As for the diff bearings I think a larger bearing will distribute the load over a larger area causing less wear...expeciallya fter the inital wear when jsut the top of the bearing is rubbing.
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