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Old 2005.11.08, 09:55 AM   #31
Allen1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machine
So far i'm not all the impressed.

the looks are killer but the boat itself is still kinda gimmicky to me. I've peaked the stock battery cycled the stock batteries a few times and saw good improved run times and overall power, so long as you don't use the stock trailer charger. But the price still is the biggest killer for me. Mind you i do like the remote and PCB board.
I agree I got one of these back in the summer I have a 1 acre pond the boat did not peform like I had expected its nice to look at but not much for performance.
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Old 2005.11.08, 10:17 AM   #32
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I haven't run mine yet. I have the Aquaspeed motor, the trim tabs and prop set. Really busy this month so I probably won't get a chance to play with it until next weekend or Thanksgiving.

The BET band board looks like an AD band board with a couple of FETs depopulated. SWEET! I need to get caught up on my reading for these little buggers.
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Old 2005.11.08, 10:33 AM   #33
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I am going to order a aquaspeed I was waiting for feedback from those whom already have the upgrades before I get one. From what I can see most seem to like the upgrade.
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Old 2005.11.08, 10:54 AM   #34
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Allen1 - if you need anything, feel free to email me a contact@reflexracing.net
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Old 2005.11.08, 02:58 PM   #35
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Today was great!

Machine, I will soon post a video, i'm now impressed with it.
I will try to video it. To see if we are comparing the same preformance.

The mod motor with low pitch (like running a low gear) really let the motor do its job!
RPM's were up and the boat buzzed all over, was great.
Although I didnt stopwatch it , I will on my next run. Its much better run time now. The boat is advertised at 5 minutes run time for a 3 minute charge using a stock motor. The mod seems to be aroung 2 right now,but I still have more tweeking to do and hope to get 3 minutes at a fast raceable pace..
I have owned and still own other full size hobby R/C boats. The run time on any r/c boat has always been far less run time than the same motor and battery set into a land vehicle ,SO WITH THAT IN MIND , I'm impressed.

Stay Tuned - 'Same BAT time .. same BAT channel
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Old 2005.11.08, 05:43 PM   #36
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Cool

Iv toyed around with some micro boats. One of them is a cut down turtle hull now 10" long with a speed 400 on 8 AA cells. It barely floated. But when it stopped cavitating and got on plane, watch out! Totally nuts

How long are these? Wonder if a mamba would wake it up?

To bad thay dont sell just the beautiful hulls. If anyone wants to sell a fried one. Let me know. I wonder if you could somehow make it a hydro instead?
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Old 2005.11.08, 05:47 PM   #37
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Forgot to mention.. You guys might want to try sanding the bottom with 400 grit and sharpen trailing edges and props.
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Old 2005.11.08, 05:51 PM   #38
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I am actually planning on waxing my hull next time out. ( Probably tommorow.)
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Old 2005.11.08, 08:55 PM   #39
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Take a piece of lexan and sand a small spot. Then wax a small spot if you want. Wet the area and run your finger over it. Youl find the rough area will break surface tension and let your finger slide more easy. Same applies for boats. Most record breaking boats have 400 running surfaces.

Think of it as millions of small steps. Like on cats and the new monos. And fish scales.
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Old 2005.11.08, 09:20 PM   #40
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That is something that I never knew.
I figured like that surfboards wax up, then i was even thinking of RainX for windshields,thought beading water was the way to go.does it matter to sand front to rear?
Do 1/10th scale R/C boaters find 400 helps on model boats? just wondering, also have you sanded your miniZ boat?
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Old 2005.11.09, 08:35 AM   #41
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Yeah. It didnt sound right when I was first told about the rough surfaces. But after reading many threads from VERY experienced boaters on rcboat.com running all sorts of nitro boats I tried it. It was not easy to remove the nice finish from my 42"seaducer gas boat. But GPS confirmed the 3 mph gain. In fact I got a bit more when I went rougher. It lets the boat "break free"

I dont have a miniz boat yet. But all of my boats (only 4 at the moment) have sharp sanded epoxy running surfaces. Or sanded abs sheet added to the sponsons to make that sharp edge on the trailing & side surfaces. The sharp edge on the transom is prolly even more critical. I think some guys use micro balloons and CA glue to build up a edge for this on plastic and abs hulls. The F1 looks very rounded at the transom edge and the pictures of it running that I saw looked like it could not plane out with the bow up and the transom deep in the water. And if Im not mistaken. It looks like the rudder is the Outboard?? Does the drive line have a universal at the outboard so the prop turns with the outboard? If so , it needs to go. You would be suprised what more you can squeeze out of a stock slow boat with alittle work. And with small micro boats everything is home made & cheap. runrunnerracing.com is a good place to read and ask about electric boats. And microhydros.com is also cool. My boats are pictured there. http://www.microhydros.com/mike_kolder/mike.htm

My 10" V is so fast, it runs like a skipping stone. In the air half the time but stuffs under water sometimes. So if a 10" hull can float a speed 400 & 8 cells. I bet the Miniz F1 could float a mamba and lipo's.
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Old 2005.11.11, 01:47 AM   #42
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The waxing or sanding sound interesting, probably try waxing first tough sanding sounds sort of irreversible .

Still need to get a prop set, unfortunately constant rain and 40 degree temperatures have literally dampened my interest in boats so I keep forgetting to order the prop set. Wonder if you could find a good brass prop that would fit?

Did finally get an Aquaspeed in it’s a definite improvement but a BSRT Spinner 34 is much faster while using less battery power (balanced, trued comm with a nicer endbell) and one with a custom modified 31 gage armature is faster still, of course they cost quit a bit more though. Definitely think a brushless motor might be interesting although not sure about the mounting, sort of seems like you’d have to redo the whole shaft and prop set-up or use some sort of offset gear arrangement.
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Old 2005.11.16, 10:53 AM   #43
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Skip the wax, try the sanding. It's proven fluid dynamics (boundary layer and laminar flow). Same principles that make a dimpled golf ball fly farther. From superbikes to helicopter blades (rotary wing), turbulators are used to manage the boundary layer to improve laminar flow. I've actually seen them for use in 1/10 touring car bodies! The principle is that fluid-on-fluid is slicker than fluid-on-surface. Fluid can be air or water. By disrupting the flow in a controlled fashion, you can create a "skin" of turbulent fluid that will decrease your drag. You just have to make sure that the "skin" doesn't get too thick or you will end up worse than you started. A slightly rough surface on the hull should be suitable.

That's the best way I can describe it. I suck at this stuff, but I've had some smart ppl explain the basics to me.
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Old 2006.03.24, 06:19 PM   #44
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Exclamation Any interest?

I'm just wondering if we put forum thread 'Header" for the F1 boat maybe it will renew interest. They have a lot of potential that is being missed out on.
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Old 2006.03.24, 08:45 PM   #45
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Might not be a bad idea there are a few more models now, and I would definitely like to see some homemade race courses.

Should be possible to build a sort of 4 inch deep meandering stream out of pond liner, I was thinking of something approx. 3 to 4 feet wide with a couple of switchbacks, and a 5 to 6 foot wide 30 foot high speed straight down the back with slalom flags. Would even be Core timing system compatible.
Somthing like this
Heck if I sort of landscaped it in the wife might not even kill me. Problem is that although I have plenty of space it’s not exactly level.

Did finally get the prop set but the winter sort of dampened my enthusiasm for boating, although now that the weather is improving it might be time to try them out.
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