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Old 2008.01.15, 07:06 AM   #46
hrdrvr
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Of course this guy is BA, and you shouldnt expect to get it this easily your first time

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKzQXmRh6Og

There are also tons of thread floating around the board. Everything you need to know about FETs is right here on MZR.

Here is an awesome thread to start with.
http://minizracer.com/forums/showthr...t+installation
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Old 2008.01.15, 02:21 PM   #47
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He makes it seem so easy.
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Old 2008.01.15, 08:18 PM   #48
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the video makes it looks so easy, I know removing it is easy, but I saw the guy only solder one side of the by each individual "legs" (connector? I know I'm n00b, please correct me) and the other side for the whole side as one.

Wouldn't this cause short circuits between the legs? or it doesn't matter?
I personally am not a master solder, and find soldering small connector very difficult(maybe I should really go to take a lesson on electrical repair)

Any how, I believe that the video really does make the whole process clear, but still make it difficult enough for people like me(beginner)
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Old 2008.01.16, 08:56 AM   #49
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I got an Iwaver rear damper set with a defect (one of the shafts was not threaded). And I informed toyeast right away. I only needed to take a picture of the part with the defect and they immediately sent me a replacement! How cool is that!
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Old 2008.01.16, 12:43 PM   #50
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Reguarding the legs on the FETs: The way I understand it, the legs from one side get information from different places on the board, therefore they need to be soldered seperate. On the other side of the FET all the leads go to the motor wires, which means that side can be soldered together.
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Old 2008.01.16, 07:43 PM   #51
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mailboxck,
Thank for your complement, we try to service our customer the best we could. All of our CS case would require some sort of prove and you have prove to us that it is defected that is why we send a replacement right the way.

Hrdrvr,
So that is the reasons, I was thinking something in that category as well. I know that the FET just regulate the voltage output to the motor, so one of the end should be just pure output since the motor don't have any regulator on it's own.
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Old 2008.01.17, 10:08 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fangel
As for the body issue, I think I have to agree with Hrdvr. I believe it is the body itself causing the problem, I'll reflect that to the factory to get it fixed for next production. In the mean time I guess you would have to fix it by remove and re-gluing the side body mount.
I just got a yellow F1 GTR myself with the same issue. I actually have the first run of these in silver and red and they sit perfectly. I compared the position of clips on the newer yellow one to my older silver one. The same. So what's the difference?

It's the clips. Fangel, if you get the factory to just change back to the old clips this body will sit perfectly. The new clips have two issues as I see it, they don't seem to move in long enough, and the step below the main ledge is too far inward to the center keeping the body artificially high.

Honestly I understand QA issues here and there but this is a big oversight. Let us know when you fixed it because i definitely intended on buying multiples of these.
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Old 2008.01.17, 08:34 PM   #53
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Thanks for the info.
I'll spend some times looking at the clips design for the new and old bodies.
But as I have said before, it is not the chassis but the body.
So fix is possible, just have indicate the problem and provide the fix to the factory.

If anyone out there with an old and new bodies that are willing to help indicate the differences and the effects the clips has on the ride height to our factory. I would be more then happy to accept the report and make sure that they are heard on the factory level.
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Old 2008.01.17, 10:30 PM   #54
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Hello,
I also noticed this problem. For my part I had to move the clips to sit higher (needed to shave the body reinforcements by 4mm to do so).



As you can see the part of the clip that fits in the chassis slot has been relocated from center to a lower position.
This issue happened on both the Mc Laren and Saleen bodies.
On my pictures the yellow saleen with white clip is from an old batch and has a correct ride height.
The dark grey Mc Laren is from the new batch.
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Old 2008.01.21, 01:37 AM   #55
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Thanks for your insightive post, I use your post to reflect it to the factory and the development team.
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Old 2008.01.24, 10:10 PM   #56
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I just got my replacement part from Toyeast. A couple of weeks ago I ordered a damper set which had one defective shock shaft. After sending pics of the defective part to Miu from Toyeast, they immediately sent me a replacement part.

I got the part this morning. Although I was expecting an entirely new rear damper set worth $10 on ToyEast, they sent me a single replacement shock instead (which was the only problematic part in the first place). Well, I was expecting too much...hehehehe. At least they kept their word in replacing the problematic part. Good job ToyEast!
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Old 2008.01.27, 08:08 PM   #57
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I hope that has not cause too many problem.
The replacement shock is brand new and it should not cause you any more trouble.
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Old 2008.01.31, 08:00 PM   #58
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should iget a fl 2.0 instead?

i am saving up for an mr-02, but its $140. Looking at these things, for $50, i might want one of these instead. But if i order one from toyeast, will it %100 sure be the new version? with the old 2.0, a lot of people got crappy controllers, bad plastic, and bad molds. With the new and improved version of the 2.0, are these problems all fixed? i want to get one from toyeast, but i dont want to get one that will break [ tx too], cuz then i have to send it back and waste all my money on shipping fees. Also, does it handle just as good as the real mr-02? are the electronics and such just as good? i am asking all of this because if i can be sure that i will get a nice fl 2.0 thats just as good as the mr-02, i WILL buy one in a heart beat!
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Old 2008.01.31, 08:50 PM   #59
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Hi there,

Yep am sure you'll get the new one from Toyeast. I already ordered 4 cars and I got the new versions. Comparing them to the MR02...they're up to par. Although the plastic are not as well moulded as Kyosho, they're still good quality. The controller is top notch and the chassis is good. You also get some spare parts in the package.

The electronics are almost the same but this does not have brake function. I believe the FETs are of good quality, but you might want to upgrade them for more speed. If you are going to get one, I highly recommend the ball bearing set and the ball diff set.
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Old 2008.01.31, 09:37 PM   #60
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Bmxtrey,
Welcome to the forum, on behave of the community I welcome you.
If you buy from ToyEast, I can assure you that you will get the new version for sure. Because we do not have any stock left of the old version.
The plastic and quality has improved greatly, you could see the other review of the new version. Don't just take my word, ask around and I'm sure you will see a lot of positive review from the past version.

The Tx that comes with the NR2 is power by Inopo, the AFM2 is a very power TX with many Fine tune setting. I know some people buy the RTR set for the TX and RX.

We also have a wide collections of Iwaver, Firelap and Kyosho bodies on sales.
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