2002.02.04, 04:55 PM
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#1
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Mini-Zedologist - Fear me
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 3,610
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Alternative Turbo Power Installation
I bought a Twin-Turbo for my Mini-Z Tintop
One thing I didn't like was the way that the power to the Turbo is connected. This is usually done by connecting the terminals directly under the battery terminals on the lower sides of the chassis - messy
I knew that had to be a better way..
So, I removed the standard tabs (or terminals) from my motor by desoldering them from the motor wires.
Next I removed the inner ESC mount that also holds the RX/ESC main power terminals against the battery terminals.
I placed the terminals from the motor between the main power and battery terminals, making sure the holes in the motor terminals lined up with the holes in the rear bulkhead and inner ESC mount where the rear bulkead screws go.
The rear bulkhead screws now have direct power from the battery terminals , so I connected the Twin-Turbo terminals to the rear bulkhead screws..
Wa-laa! Power to the Turbo from the rear of the chassis
The only other thing I had to do was trim about 5mm from the CLK bodyshell side mounts, so they didn't touch the Turbo's rear mounted power terminals
it looks neater and they will not come loose, also it prevents the Turbo's power wires from touching the sides of narrower bodyshells.
It may sound complicated, but if you ever do a chassis change you'll know exacltly what I mean..
Here's some pics to help clarify the confusion The Turbo power terminals have not been insulated with tape for photographic reference, but will be in the future.
Mondo
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Last edited by Mondo; 2002.02.04 at 04:57 PM.
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2002.02.04, 06:38 PM
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#2
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nomotorlimit@hotmail.com
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: California
Posts: 2,072
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Nice, clean job Mondo. I thought of that, but I wasn't sure whether the black screws are conductive. Now I know. Thanks.
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2002.02.04, 06:48 PM
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#3
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,448
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well, they aren't conductive 100% of the time. I tried that before, and my terminals must have been centered on the screws, because they didn't have a charge. Make sure the screws are tight to hold the terminals on the inside against them!!!
I did almost the same thing, but put my turbo wires on the inside, screwed them down that way
__________________
Russ
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2002.02.04, 06:48 PM
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#4
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Administrator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,497
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Wow Mondo, great idea!
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2002.02.04, 06:57 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Singapore
Posts: 147
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Fitting a washer there instead of the motor tabs would do the same trick right? I have plenty of washers from various hop ups which are unused and can be put to good use in that way I think.
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2002.02.04, 06:59 PM
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#6
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Mini-Zedologist - Fear me
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 3,610
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Rear bulkhead power
Russ,
I gave the car a good run and it didn't skip a beat, that included running into objects that a Mini-Z cannot move, irrespective of the speed you hit them at
If I pick up any hassles, I'll try the inside route too..
Thanks for the advice..
jagr,
I used the motor terminals instead of washers because their a lot thinner.
Mondo
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Last edited by Mondo; 2002.02.05 at 07:22 AM.
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2002.02.04, 07:30 PM
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#7
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Zen_gineer
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Border, SC
Posts: 1,363
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Mondo,
I ran into the same problems that Russ did when I tried that with my TLP turbo.
I went another way, using printed circuit board sockets as connectors for the power leads. Mounted these just in from the 45 deg. angle of the battery pods. Drilled holes into the battery terminals from the back of the battery pods. Soldered the connectors directly to the terminals, a little tricky trying not to melt the terminal mounts.
I use BEC connector sockets on my motors, the turbo, and the standard power leads. If you think it through, you can arrange the connectors so that you can remove the turbo and plug in the standard lead to the motor lead. The power leads go straight to the printed circuit board sockets. Voila, back to stock in less than 15 seconds!!
Cant post pics as I am again out of the states. But I believe that
this arrangement is slightly visible in some of the pics on the Electric Blue GT90.
Will post the detail pics when I get back home!!
__________________
Racing is a state of mind....and I've lost it
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2002.02.08, 05:59 PM
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#8
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Mini-Zedologist - Fear me
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 3,610
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BEC Sockets
DAMZer,
I'd like to see a pic of the BEC sockets.
Right now, the smallest I have are 'Deans' connectors. As youre aware, these are more suited to 1/12-1/10 scale chassis due to their size, but they are smaller than most.
If you can get a pic and let me see what they look like, perhaps I can source some locally
Mondo
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2002.02.08, 06:39 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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Replace the screws with conductive screws, or solder...
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2002.02.08, 07:03 PM
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#10
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Mini-Zedologist - Fear me
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 3,610
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Conductive Screws
Drac,
I have power from the back of the chassis.
I made some minor mods to allow this and it works!
However, the motor wire has been soldered to the Turbo's motor wires and insulated with heatshrink.
I'd like a smaller plug solution. I haven't used the Deans connectors because they are too big for a Mini-Z.
The BEC interests me as DAMZer commented that it's small. I do have small Molex connectors etc.. but they won't handle the current draw, as they're designed for comms signals which are usually 3-5 VDC and a max of 20mA.
So, if anyone has a pic of a BEC connector, I'd like to see what they look like
Edit
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Since this post, I attached the Turbo wires on the inside of the chassis. Looks even neater now
Mondo
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Last edited by Mondo; 2002.02.08 at 09:20 PM.
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2002.03.14, 05:31 PM
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#11
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New Orleans
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 66
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hmm I have the TLP Turbo and screwing the "hoops" with the screws in the back isn't working for me, no power going to the motor...
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2002.03.16, 04:13 AM
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#12
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Mini-Zedologist - Fear me
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, England
Posts: 3,610
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Power
Sportykev,
Read my original post carefully.
There is no power running to the rear bulkhead screws by default.
I made some mods to carry power to the rear bulkhead screws.
I did explain how I did in in the post.
Now the power on mine runs from inside the chassis, a better solution as far as I am concerned.
__________________
Mondo
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The UberMod is back in town...
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2002.03.20, 10:12 PM
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#13
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Zen_gineer
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: The Border, SC
Posts: 1,363
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Mondo,
Sorry I haven't posted any pics of the connectors. In Honduras at the moment.
These little connectors are the same type you would see on a standard RC radio set, the connector that comes on the battery box for a receiver. Usually they are red and have 2 sockets.
I'll post pics if nobody else gets around to it.
__________________
Racing is a state of mind....and I've lost it
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2002.04.01, 02:59 PM
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#14
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Mini-Z Novice
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 16
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You can just solder the cable on the terminal inside the esc holder. then cut a bit on the cover, let the 2 wire go into the body.
If interest, i'll try to take some photo to show it.
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2002.04.01, 07:36 PM
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#15
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Administrator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,497
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alduslai, please do take some pics. Welcome to the Forums, I have really enjoyed all of your great posts so far!
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