I would like to see that done. I don't have an Iwaver, but I know the board is soldered to the chassis so connector will need to be made for one thing. Some of the screws may also be off one way or another somewhere. Overall, I think there is a way it can be done.
I just did a Iwaver chassis swap recently. Yea, the battery connectors are soldered onto the top tabs, and the switch is connected to the bottom tabs. There are some very minor clearance issues such as the Iwaver servo box and the pcb.
The servo box is 1/10th of a mm larger than the hole in the chassis. But some force will get the box in. Then there's the issue with the pcb. As you can see, in the Real Mini-Z pcbs, there are notches at the side of the board. The Iwaver doesn't have the notches. You have to cut very little material away to fit the board in.
Other than these issues, it's very simple.
EDIT. Just remembered one more issue. The 2 holes at the back of the pcb are slightly smaller than the pegs of the Kyosho one. Also, some force will make it fit. I has to use a mallot and a screwdriver to nudge it in.
doesn't sound too bad Wedge... guess i'm going to have to try that mod... bet that most people wouldn't be able to see that it is an Iwaver with the clear chassis... a lot of people can't see the difference between the PCBs at a glance... that could get some Iwaver racers running at LHSs that don't allow the iwaver ... *evil grin*
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I just did a Iwaver chassis swap recently. Yea, the battery connectors are soldered onto the top tabs, and the switch is connected to the bottom tabs. There are some very minor clearance issues such as the Iwaver servo box and the pcb.
The servo box is 1/10th of a mm larger than the hole in the chassis. But some force will get the box in. Then there's the issue with the pcb. As you can see, in the Real Mini-Z pcbs, there are notches at the side of the board. The Iwaver doesn't have the notches. You have to cut very little material away to fit the board in.
Other than these issues, it's very simple.
EDIT. Just remembered one more issue. The 2 holes at the back of the pcb are slightly smaller than the pegs of the Kyosho one. Also, some force will make it fit. I has to use a mallot and a screwdriver to nudge it in.
Sounds cool...BTW Wedge, I thought you were anti-clone, so why would you be doing an Iwaver chassis swap?
Chuckster...
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I drift shopping carts in stores.......
Hey wedginator and hello everyone else. I did a transplant into a clear chassis awhile back as well. The same issues as wedginator mentions was the same in my case. What I did was just used the little mount that holds the pcb off the actual iwaver chassis and had no problems. I filed a little bit off the chassis where the servo fits in and everything else worked out great.
nice job... looking at the chassis in the picture ... it doesn't show any indication of being a clone at all...
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||| There comes a time in every hobbist's life when they are forced to remorgage their house. |||
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nice job... looking at the chassis in the picture ... it doesn't show any indication of being a clone at all...
Thanks man, besides the black plastic servo cover there really is no way of telling unless you open the pcb cover or look real close through the bottom.
Come to think of it some of the newer Kyosho MR01's like the MR01F uses a black or dark grey servo case. Just the Iwaver sticker on top may give it away.
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