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Old 2021.01.25, 01:20 PM   #1
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Noob painting question for clear over decals

Ok so Iím coming from lexan painting but trying my hand at mini z white bodies. I plan on painting with tamiya fine primer then TS paints. Then applying waterslide decals. At this point I want to apply clear so I can polish it out to a good finish. So I have heard ts-13 will burn the decal. What if I apply something like x-22 over the decal first? Would this work? Keep in mind I plan on using rattle cans for this whole thing as I donít own a airbrush and have never used one. (Maybe in the future). So can I put down a thin layer of x-22 over the decal with a brush... let dry... then ts-13 for a few coats... let dry... polish.... then the matte details like window trim?

I saw a ton of you guys use future floor polish but I assume I would need an airbrush for this right?
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Old 2021.01.25, 11:58 PM   #2
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Can't help with the other questions but you definitely don't need an airbrush for future floor polish. It's really good at self leveling, I've even used a toothbrush to apply it.
I read on a website somewhere to add a small amount of simple green cleaner (I can't remember the ratio) to the future and it gives a wet look when dry. First body I did I didn't touch for hours because I thought it wasn't dry yet.
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Old 2021.01.26, 10:22 AM   #3
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Shoot might have to give future a try then. I didnít know you could apply it with a brush. Any idea how future holds up to racing or just bumping into RCP track? I mean I expect it to ware no mater what but how does it compare to clear coat? Iíve seen a lot of modelers using future but those just sit on a shelf.
Thanks again
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Old 2021.01.27, 01:30 PM   #4
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Future holds up great on the track. Also, if it does get beat up, you can give it a good rub-down with a cleaner/wax, and re-apply it. Or you can just spot re-apply it to corners and bumpers. It's really forgiving.

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Old 2021.02.19, 07:06 PM   #5
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Tamyia clear coat is very kind to decals.
As long as you spray a very thin misty coat first, wait 30-60 min and spray another quite thin coat, wait again till practically dry then spray a last coat that can be thicker and wet but never too thick.
The trick is to never get tempted to rush the job and never go super wet with the 3rd coat. A typical mistake as when you spray a thick layer, the wet glossy look you see developing is very appealing!
If you really want a great finish, learn how to wet sand the paint and polish it, you get a mirror finish if you wet sand the initial paint, and then wet sand and polish the clear coat.
A bit of a maniacal thing to do for shells you drive and destroy, I know!
For a quick and dirty job, Future is very good. It's not a tough finish, but at the end of the day the shells will get destroyed anyway.

I personally use automotive paint and clear coats, which are very aggressive and can literally melt decals if I spray a thick layer.
I spray 2 initial misty, thin layers, which fix and protect decals from my following layers. But with aggressive automotive paint I never do a wet coat as that could melt the previous layers and the decals, Ive done that 2 or 3 times and eventually learned my lesson. Instead I just do several thin coats and wet-sand and polish.
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