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Old 2008.03.06, 10:31 PM   #1
james399
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how to lift and lower your ol, complete instructions.

ok, so someone on here asked me for their help on doing this, so i figured i would just post it here for everyone to use, if the moderators want to turn this into a sticky... be my guest... the pictures are numbered in sequence, and are accompanied by descriptions...

first is how to lower your truck, and second is how you do lssm...

dsc01817: this picture shows you the difference between the rear and front shocks... notice that the shocks are over all the same length... but the shock on the left has far more travel than the one on the right (more shaft is visible)... the tip of the screw driver is pointing to the main difference... you will want to use 4 of the shocks on the left for lowering to maximize travel, and 4 of the ones on the right for lifting your truck... (for those of you trying it at home, yes this will mean that you will need 2 sets of shocks to lower... you don't have to, but this is what i recommend...)

dsc01818: this picture shows how you take apart the shock... put in a phillips (plus) screw driver in through the top and unscrew, be careful that you are holding the shock firmly in your hand, because the bottom will pop out at you...(the spring has preload on it)

dsc01819: this is what your shock should look like when you take it apart... notice the clear little cylinder thing next to the center shaft? (this is a thick coffee straw that i found... you can also use heat shrink styrene or anything else for that matter... you just have to make sure that you cut 4 pieces relatively the same size... that it fits inside the top of the shock, where you put the screw driver to take the shock apart, and that it fits around the screw itself...)

dsc01820-dsc01821: kind of hard to make out, but basically i slipped the clear plastic piece on to the screw

dsc01822: this is what you should have now, 1 spring, 1 bottom of the shock, 1 top of the shock, and the screw with the plastic piece on it... put the shock together the same way you took it apart... be careful when you are screwing the screw into the bottom part of the shock... don't strip it...

dsc01823: this is what it should look like when completed, obviously the shock on the left is the lowered shock, and the one on the right is the standard shock... doesn't look much shorter, but it will make a huge difference once installed... install the shock on the truck and drive...

now lssm shock...

dsc01824: as before take the shock apart the same way....

dsc01825: the longs shiny thing next to the stock screw/shaft is the essentials of the lssm... (you can purchase this at any hobby store... buy some rod that has threaded ends, usually they have this kind of thing for airplanes...then cut to fit... make sure you have roughly the same amount of threading as on the stock shock, and cut it a couple of inches after the smooth shaft, you will be able to trim this down later....trial and error my friends... if you are handy and understand what you are looking at this should make sense... if you are utterly confused... drive your truck around stock) (but wait james how do i make sure the rock is the right diameter?!?! take apart a shock and take the shaft in with you and compare it in the store... get one that is the same width...)

dsc01826: hold the longer shaft with a part of needle nose pliers, or any pliers for that matter... and carefully screw on the bottom of the shock.. do not worry about the rest of the shock, just screw the bottom on to the shaft... carefully, don't strip it...

dsc01827: this is what you should have once you screw it on... (oh almost forgot, go buy some orings.. the more orings you have the higher it will be lifted, the fewer orings less lifted... for whatever look your going for... it should also be obvious what you do with them...)

dsc01828k so you can kind of see how the shock is going to be put together... a bit of advice on installation on the truck... screw in the top of the shock on to the shock arms... (just like how you had to unscrew it to take the shock off) once is attached, slide the rod up from under the chassis into the shaft hole of the shock and snap the bottom of the shock into place... if you try and screw it in and snap it in, while the shock is all together it will be a pain in the a...

dsc01829:this is what it should look like when you are all done...
(trouble shooting #1: a couple of things about this... after you do the lssm, and install on the truck and you say to yourself... hey its not level!!! go read this thread
http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25509, you can do what is suggested there, or as i did you can just get a set of front upper arms, and install them on the back...) (trouble shooting #2: "james i installed everything but the shaft keeps popping out!" you cut the shaft too short...)
(trouble shooting #3: "james everything works great but when i put the body on, the front doesn't travel as much!" you need to cut more of the shaft, it is probably hitting on the body under the hood, when you trim, be careful of trouble shooting #2)

dsc01830-dsc01832:now if you are like me and super duper anal... and you say to yourself, i wish i could make it look cleaner... i don't like how those o-rings look... you can buy an xrm toy, and take the shocks off of it and you can make something that looks factory... "wait james, where do they sell the toy, is it still available??" i don't know the answer to that question... but hey, someone in the forsale section is selling a set of xrm shocks with tires, and it's only 10 dollars shipped to the continental united states!!! no way?!?! hint hint... the xrm tires are excellent and in my opinion the best rock crawling tires... uber soft, you have to be careful not to rip them and you have to cut a third nob off unless you don't mind the monster truck look... if you get the xrms, and want to conver them... look at my sig... you can either turn them into stock replacements, or do the lssm to it once you have it apart... again if this is all confusing to you, don't try it...

now if you want a truck that is bad A lifted the right way, with a custom body longer upper shock arms on the back, and a fet stack so you can safely run bigger tires and hotter motors... wait... someone in the forsale section is selling a pimped out overland that looks surprisingly like the one in the pictures in this thread... hint hint....

if you think this is a commercial... in a part it is... SOMEONE BUY MY TRUCK!!!

**i claim no responsibility for anyones trucks and or parts... if you decide to modify your truck you do so at your own risk, i do not and will not claim any responsibility for what i have written, in other words you try this and it don't work, thats on you, not me!**
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg DSC01818.JPG (58.9 KB, 119 views)
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File Type: jpg DSC01820.JPG (57.9 KB, 109 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01821.JPG (59.0 KB, 114 views)

Last edited by james399; 2008.03.06 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 2008.03.06, 10:34 PM   #2
james399
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http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293332#post293332

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/sh...332#post293332
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File Type: jpg DSC01823.JPG (58.4 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01824.JPG (60.7 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01825.JPG (58.3 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01826.JPG (59.6 KB, 85 views)
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Old 2008.03.06, 10:35 PM   #3
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More Pictures

HOLY HOT DOODY BATMAN, DID YOU CHECK OUT THIS THREAD?

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/sh...332#post293332
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File Type: jpg DSC01828.JPG (57.5 KB, 73 views)
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File Type: jpg DSC01830.JPG (59.5 KB, 78 views)
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Old 2008.03.06, 10:37 PM   #4
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More Pictures

WOW THATS A NICE TRUCK, I WISH I COULD HAVE ONE

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/sh...332#post293332
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Old 2008.03.08, 02:59 AM   #5
james399
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On a side note, please feel free to add to this, i know this does not cover all the nuances or variations on this...

i know there are also guys out there that know a hell of a lot more about this than i do,

if you look at the thread for lowering the truck in my sig... hammer z has some great input into this... i'm sure he has experimented with this far more than i have...

again all input is great and again this was for the community...
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Old 2008.03.08, 07:50 PM   #6
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Thanks for the props. I would add to look into the lowdown shock set as it has shorter springs, not as much tension on lowered shocks as a full OL spring. And also you can mix and match with the blue parts for your shocks.

Overall a good write up.
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Old 2008.03.19, 05:57 PM   #7
Jace1283
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can you link the pics in the instructions? it makes it a lot easier to use and much better instructions...it's easy!
EDIT: is this picture too big?, maybe thats why its not linked...
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Old 2008.03.19, 07:20 PM   #8
james399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1283 View Post
can you link the pics in the instructions? it makes it a lot easier to use and much better instructions...it's easy! see
EDIT: is this picture too big?, maybe thats why its not linked...
it will take forever to load for some people... and some people won't need all the pictures...

trust me, i think this is the best way... there are just too many pictures for it to be efficient...

if you want to cut and past my instructions, or summarize them, and insert pictures... feel free... if you want to show your own progress etc... feel free, i don't take ownership of the pictures or this thread, it was for the community, do as you please...

if you have any specific questions, i will try and clarify...

Last edited by james399; 2008.03.19 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 2008.03.19, 11:42 PM   #9
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i have a question for the piece in the shock for the lift.

i have a hobby shop nearby thats all about flying stuff for the most part...what would i call that rod with the thread and what it its diameter? Isn't the shock operation less smooth without the screw head? Does anyone know of any other options for a lift rod? I just got another set of shocks and plan to do this. thanks
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Old 2008.03.20, 12:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1283 View Post
i have a question for the piece in the shock for the lift.

i have a hobby shop nearby thats all about flying stuff for the most part...what would i call that rod with the thread and what it its diameter? Isn't the shock operation less smooth without the screw head? Does anyone know of any other options for a lift rod? I just got another set of shocks and plan to do this. thanks
I am not sure about what the rod is called but it is easy enough to find if they have alot of airplane stuff, it maybe a control rod. As far as slop without the screw head, find a piece of something that fits inside the top of the shock but still allows the rod to pass through without binding, it has been a long time since I did this mod but I think I used a piece of antenna tube.
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Old 2008.03.20, 11:48 AM   #11
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I am not sure about what the rod is called but it is easy enough to find if they have alot of airplane stuff, it maybe a control rod. As far as slop without the screw head, find a piece of something that fits inside the top of the shock but still allows the rod to pass through without binding, it has been a long time since I did this mod but I think I used a piece of antenna tube.
jace1283: it is called a control rod, when you go look for it, take the screw in with you, and tell them you need to find the same diameter... usually, the rod will be over a foot long... it is used on airplanes to adjust the tail flaps up and down and side to side... as for less smooth operation, no not really, but the only preload on the shock is from the weight of the body... so it will not necessarily level out the body after a hard turn or whatever... what you can do, is melt the rod a little bit and make a little blob at the end, ... (royal pain in the a) also check out the thread in my sig on how to convert the xrm shocks into stock replacements... not as much lift as a true lssm... but over a nice setup, with appropiate preload etc... i do have a set of the xrm shocks and tires left for sale... check the forsale section, and see if it is an option for you...

fixed 13, if you get the right diameter rod, there shouldn't be too much slop, and antenna tubing and such, i think would cause more binding... post some picts of what you did, so others can see compare etc etc...
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Old 2008.03.20, 10:56 PM   #12
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fixed 13, if you get the right diameter rod, there shouldn't be too much slop, and antenna tubing and such, i think would cause more binding... post some picts of what you did, so others can see compare etc etc...[/QUOTE]

I will try to get the camera from the wife in the near future.

The rod is the same diameter as the screw shank so it slides through the hole in the bottom of the shock, the head on the stock screw keeps it centered in the shock body. Without the screw head the rod has some play as it "pivots" in the hole because it is not supported for more than 1mm as it passes through the hole. Yes you are correct about binding, that could be a problem if you do not use something with the correct inside diameter, I have not had any binding issues and the shocks are much more linear now that I added the lining to the shock body.

I hope that made some sense without pics.
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Old 2008.03.22, 03:53 AM   #13
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The stuff I used was a .078" music wire (very close to the 2 millimeters) that I threaded myself. The control rods are an easier way to go as it already has those threads cut, but I think you have about an inch threads on one end. Those control rods are a softer material as well, easier to cut. Last tip is cutting the threaded end down, get about two nuts that will thread on there. Jam them together below the cut off point. This way after you cut the threaded end down, remove the nuts it will straighten out the collapsed thread from cutting.

I myself don't like the liners as I want the rod to push out around the upper mounting screws as it collapses and pop back up with the rebound. That is a situation that can cause it to bind up if you have a liner in there. I tried the styrene tube and the antenna tube as well. The spring locates the shock body enough for the rod to move up and down with no trouble at all. If your springs are set up on a few o rings or other spacers, that can be a different story though.
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Old 2008.03.24, 05:50 PM   #14
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so i got some stock OL shocks off ebay and got them today. i went to the local hobby shop and poked around until i found some rod for something that flys that had threaded ends and same diameter as th OL screw. I cut off the right length and some thread which was the same size thread . It wasn't very smooth so i polished it with a dremel and polishing compound. Other than having to polish it this pole was perrrrfect. 3.99 for 2 rods, cut each one in half for each shock

I put it together but i still need to push the spring down with something and the pole hits the screw on the mount causing some friction. I only did the backs and hopefully i'll get some pics. Right now its not as smooth as i'd like it to be.

i'm thinking i may get the rods to just the right size and put a ball of solder on top so i can make them short so they can be inside the shock and not hitting the mount screw
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Old 2008.03.24, 06:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1283 View Post
so i got some stock OL shocks off ebay and got them today. i went to the local hobby shop and poked around until i found some rod for something that flys that had threaded ends and same diameter as th OL screw. I cut off the right length and some thread which was the same size thread . It wasn't very smooth so i polished it with a dremel and polishing compound. Other than having to polish it this pole was perrrrfect. 3.99 for 2 rods, cut each one in half for each shock

I put it together but i still need to push the spring down with something and the pole hits the screw on the mount causing some friction. I only did the backs and hopefully i'll get some pics. Right now its not as smooth as i'd like it to be.

i'm thinking i may get the rods to just the right size and put a ball of solder on top so i can make them short so they can be inside the shock and not hitting the mount screw
ok, without pictures of what you did, it is a little difficult to diagnose... did you just do the lssm, did you lift it using oring spacers? the length of the shock shaft will really depend on how much you lift it... also with the rears, check my reference to another thread up above, you can either use one of the plastic bushings, or get longer rods for the front and put em on back...
as for binding, hitting the screws on the shock mount... uh that is not supposed to happen... lol...

so if i were you, try doing all 4, take a pictures and ill try and help you out... it might be cuz it is way staggered...

also i'm not sure what you mean by, i need to find something to push the spring down...
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