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Old 2012.01.16, 05:24 PM   #31
oXYnary
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Got my buggy on Fri.. Got about 5-6 packs through it when I had a Diff failure.. Rear diff - Shredded the spider gears... Strange.. Replacement on the way for 15.99 plus shipping! If this happens again , I guess I will have to go the ball diff route (if I can afford it!).. looks like $52.00 for one complete diff!! Maybe I need to adjust the slipper/ Any tips on this? Are the slippers coming out of the box too tight? I have not checked it yet. Maybe I should have
Did you and any diff lube/oil to the diffs? I have added some to mine with a bit thicker up front with no diff issues and stock slipper cut. However, this is with the stock motor.
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Old 2012.01.17, 10:16 AM   #32
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Yes I was running the stock motor as well.. I greased the slipper a bit last night.. Will add some kind of lube to the gear diffs.. Would black grease work ok here? Or would a clear diff lube be better?
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Old 2012.01.17, 11:58 AM   #33
oXYnary
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I was thinking more like diff oil. 1000K etc. type. Black grease could probably work, but I was thinking even thicker.


Here is a good article. In fact, I kinda wish I had waited on the ball diffs after reading this.

http://www.tsanrc.com/2011/07/gear-d...st-author.html
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Old 2012.01.17, 11:44 PM   #34
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does anyone know if the round atomic motors fit and work in these buggies?
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Old 2012.01.20, 01:01 PM   #35
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Kyosho X speed = shredded bones here too.. Drilled all of them out last night, cut some pins from some body clips. Now the plastic bones have metal pins through them.. Has run fine now so far 3 packs after.. I do have Atomic bones that should be here any day now..

But the Kyosho X speed motor was the perfect boost in speed/ acceleration that my buggy needed on my 16x6 makeshift track.. Basically the extra power over stock is used mostly to prevent nose dives off of jumps... Car jumps level now.. I was glad to achieve this by not having to increase pinion size and sacrifice low end zip.


Pick of a bone now:

http://s862.photobucket.com/albums/ab183/RReaves569/

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Old 2012.08.01, 01:16 AM   #36
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Anyone tried R246's rrT?
Hearing about your misfortune makes me not want to try my new spinner...
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Old 2012.08.01, 07:14 AM   #37
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i've got a PN70T in my buggy right now and it's not enough. it's still much slower than a racer. i'm looking for a good solution that is $15-20 and doesn't require replacing FETs.
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Old 2012.08.01, 07:31 AM   #38
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Most of the people at our track uses PN33, ATM AD Stock and ATM T2 motors.
Stripped stock dogbones are happening, but with CVD's and alu dogbones we have not had any failures yet.
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Old 2016.01.29, 08:29 PM   #39
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Hi,
I just change from stock motor to PN 39T motor,same reason for speed of course.
But i notice when I slowly throttle, there is pitch sound came from esc, with stock motor I didn't hear the sound. Is it I need to solder the yellow cap at positive terminal like stock motor to my PN motor terminal?
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Old 2016.01.30, 06:50 AM   #40
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Hi,
I just change from stock motor to PN 39T motor,same reason for speed of course.
But i notice when I slowly throttle, there is pitch sound came from esc, with stock motor I didn't hear the sound. Is it I need to solder the yellow cap at positive terminal like stock motor to my PN motor terminal?

we have several guys running the PN 33T and aren't using the cap on them. We also are just running the stock boards.
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Old 2016.02.16, 07:58 PM   #41
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how about clutch, do i need to set the clutch since with new motor?
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