The glaze on the tire could be adding to it. Since your car turns lefts more than right, the right front should be more worn, giving a smooth turn, and left less worn, giving more grip in the corner. Both rear tires should have sufficient wear to pronounce this effect. Try putting some new rear rubber on, and see if it helps. Keep the front the same...
From what I understand, you are using 4 narrow wheels. 20d tires... in general, you may want to try less front grip.
Just remember, that as tires wear, you have more contact patch, since they start round, and the patch gets flatter...
I almost exclusively used ATM 40d slicks on the front of my 015's, and they worked very well. I now use them on my narrow MR03 with equal results. You may want to give them a shot, with Kyosho 20d radials in the rear.
Re: tires - I get ur drift , I stick with 20d because of the amazing cornering speed, it's the only thing in my bag of tricks because the 015 has slow fets. I catch up in the corners. People are surprised I dial a 015 without traction roll. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a great driver, and will never beat a competent 03. I have fun hanging for a few laps before getting dropped
btw your diff post was also enlightening, good info
Should've caught onto this thread sooner, but let me add in two cents:
- Vaseline is not going to be strong enough to help, it seems to "give up" when you load it enough in a corner. Proper silicone diff grease is much better for this, although you will have to try several types (probably 7-15k will get you some results). If you don't want to buy any, just go ask a local racer or the track owner, most Mini-Z enthusiasts are very generous and helpful.
- Petroleum-based greases can work, but there have been worries about it degrading the plastic over [a long] time. Just keep that in mind when searching around the garage.
- Kyosho 20d tires all around is typically considered excessive, your front 20's must be significantly unevenly worn if you have been running a left-biased track. EMU's right, you should definitely consider harder front tires. Anything other than Kyosho 20's will wear more evenly (and slowly!) in the front, and the switch will also allow you to get off the stock T-plate for something a bit more durable and more flat (less tweak, if it's a good T-plate).
- (edit: see below post by EMU for more info)
Hopefully this was helpful -- seems I remembered wrong about the gear diff characteristics, see EMU's post below for the right stuff.
Thanks, very helpful. I've been giving my tires a lot of thought. I don't have a great pit selection. I've played with sanded down 40d thanks to all my ASCs but there's too much push, undriveable. 20d matches my driving style best and I'm able to have fun out there. I'm not noticing excessive wear, or maybe I'm not racing enough .
Anyways through a combination of re-sanded tires, higher pinion, and backing down the throttle trim I'm able to drive the car without too much 'hooking'. It's still present so I finesse the right turns until I figure out what to do next. I was able to battle and turn in some hot laps today Thanks everyone.
hmm... appart from sanding them down to take the glaze out have you tried rotating the tires?
front left tire goes on the rear right;
front right tire goes on the rear left;
rear left tire goes on front left;
rear right tire goes on front right...
all the other tips given out are really really great and was a delight to read...
you might want to try a 30d front... but if you think that 20d is ok for you then that's whats best...
hmm... appart from sanding them down to take the glaze out have you tried rotating the tires?
front left tire goes on the rear right;
front right tire goes on the rear left;
rear left tire goes on front left;
rear right tire goes on front right...
all the other tips given out are really really great and was a delight to read...
you might want to try a 30d front... but if you think that 20d is ok for you then that's whats best...
hope this helps...
Thanks, I never thought about crisscrossing tires... worth a try later.
OK a rear wheel question: I'm about to try another body that uses a rear W wheel. If I use a N wheel (w narrow tires / correct offset) for the rear, what kind of handling characteristics can I expect?
Anyways through a combination of re-sanded tires, higher pinion, and backing down the throttle trim I'm able to drive the car without too much 'hooking'. It's still present so I finesse the right turns until I figure out what to do next. I was able to battle and turn in some hot laps today Thanks everyone.
I thought the hooking problem subsided but it's back I installed 40d sanded up front and to my surprise it works! (but I had limited track time, not 100% sure). During the tunning process when the car was brand new, 40d were pushing mad (and spinning out). I settled with 20d and it drove fine for months. Then this hooking problem arises and the remedy is back to 40d tires? weird.
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