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Old 2006.06.25, 11:16 PM   #1
builthatch
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Problem with Kyosho Ti diff shaft for mr-02

I have two Kyosho ball diffs, one uses a Kyosho Ti shaft and the other uses an Atomic Ti shaft. I've had the Atomic one for some time and it's been fine. The only issue with it is the threaded parts don't seem as long as the stocker, or the middle part is too long, whatever it is i have to put a washer in the driver side wheel behind the wheel nut to allow the wheel to be tightened, but that is a small issue and has not caused any problems.

now, my real problem-

the other diff uses a kyosho Ti shaft and the piece that screws down on the drivers side with a set screw atop a flat divit on the shaft will slide down with any sort of tightening of the wheel on that end. i mean i can't tighten it down even close to the tightness of the other diff before it slides and pinches the axle carrier bearings. I tried to sand the flat spot to give it some grip, as well as sand the bottom of the set screw (that did nothing lol) so i don't know what to do here...

i think the problem MAY lay in that the flat spot on the kyosho ti shaft is actually not as flat as it should be...the atomic one, surprisingly, is of batter condition in that spot....but i am not sure because the area of that flat spot on the shaft where the set screw clamps look pretty flat...it's the end closer to the wheel that is not as flat as it should be.

any ideas?
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Old 2006.06.26, 12:06 AM   #2
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Use a titanium grub screw? Maybe the titanium shaft is too hard for the set-screw to get a good grip. At any rate, it sounds like some other kind of problem, in that that set screw is really just supposed to keep the collar from spinning on the shaft; I don't think it was intended to prevent longitudinal movement along the shaft.
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Old 2006.06.26, 12:37 AM   #3
builthatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly
At any rate, it sounds like some other kind of problem, in that that set screw is really just supposed to keep the collar from spinning on the shaft; I don't think it was intended to prevent longitudinal movement along the shaft.
you'd think that but then why do they make the flat spot so long along the length of the shaft? it's 4mm long!!!

typically the grub screw sits in-between the middle and the inner edge, so it's gotta keep it from sliding in too.
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Last edited by builthatch; 2006.06.26 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 2006.06.26, 10:36 AM   #4
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Use the tension of the left rear wheel to act as a back stop to tighten against. Keep the grub screw loose and push left on the wrench s you tight it. If the axle is still too tight, then back off the wheelnut 1/8 turn and try again. I'd probably only do this with alloy wheel nuts as you will probably rip the plastic ones right off. Remember to use loctite.

Superfly - the left hub is designed to prevent longitudinal movement and set the amount amount of play you have in the rear axle.
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Old 2006.06.26, 11:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruf
Use the tension of the left rear wheel to act as a back stop to tighten against. Keep the grub screw loose and push left on the wrench s you tight it. If the axle is still too tight, then back off the wheelnut 1/8 turn and try again. I'd probably only do this with alloy wheel nuts as you will probably rip the plastic ones right off. Remember to use loctite.

Superfly - the left hub is designed to prevent longitudinal movement and set the amount amount of play you have in the rear axle.
Ruf, thanks. Any idea why things would be so different with this Kyosho Ti shaft vs. the Atomic Ti shaft regarding being able to secure that piece? Your suggestion is something i considered, it's just odd how i can do it normally with one and have to do it in a more convoluted way with the other....
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Old 2006.06.26, 11:28 AM   #6
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I always do it that way until the grub screw wears it's own set into the shaft. Whenever I change motor mounts, it's time to resurface the flat and start over again. As for why, you've got 2 different manufacturers. Parts variance is to be expected.
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Old 2006.06.26, 08:48 PM   #7
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Not much help but i have a couple of Kyosho titanium diff axles and no problem with any. Seems like some part is wrong or mixed up?
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Old 2006.06.26, 09:04 PM   #8
builthatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfisminiz
Not much help but i have a couple of Kyosho titanium diff axles and no problem with any. Seems like some part is wrong or mixed up?
nah, it's all kyosho brand new stock, from ruf's hands to mine, still in packages...
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Old 2006.06.26, 09:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builthatch
nah, it's all kyosho brand new stock, from ruf's hands to mine, still in packages...
ok, let me waste more bandwidth since i can't edit/ add to my old post lol...

i took a razor blade, a diesel one, and scraped back and forth along the flat spot and it actually flattened it out more than it was! did not wear the blade at all, if you can believe that. Anyway, i flattened it out and then scraped some sand paper across it. I then put it together my usual way without a pinion to see if when i tightened the wheel if it'd push the collar in and it didn't! so i put it all back together and it seems ok.

i think the culprit was that the flat spot was not exactly flat.
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Old 2006.06.26, 10:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builthatch
ok, let me waste more bandwidth since i can't edit/ add to my old post lol...

i took a razor blade, a diesel one, and scraped back and forth along the flat spot and it actually flattened it out more than it was! did not wear the blade at all, if you can believe that. Anyway, i flattened it out and then scraped some sand paper across it. I then put it together my usual way without a pinion to see if when i tightened the wheel if it'd push the collar in and it didn't! so i put it all back together and it seems ok.

i think the culprit was that the flat spot was not exactly flat.
Nice work, I am glad you got it figured out. Stuff like this can be so frustrating...like that time I put a *little* brass washer in the wrong place. argghhhh .
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Old 2006.06.26, 10:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Spoon
Nice work, I am glad you got it figured out. Stuff like this can be so frustrating...like that time I put a *little* brass washer in the wrong place. argghhhh .
haha, would that be a lil brass washer associated with a servo or what!
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Old 2006.06.27, 02:24 AM   #12
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The problem with the set screw walking as you tighten it down may well be caused by an uneven surface on the TIP of the set screw. Take a look at it. If it is uneven, or high on one side, it will walk when tightened. You can file it to a rounded CENTER point and it wont walk when tightened and will stay put.
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Old 2006.06.27, 02:23 PM   #13
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fantastic,,,10
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Old 2006.06.27, 02:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builthatch
haha, would that be a lil brass washer associated with a servo or what!
basically, it was the servo gear assembly in my MR02. I didn't put the washer where it belonged so the steering POT wasn't sitting inside of the first servo gear. After four hours of trying to get it to work I finally figure out what was wrong.
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