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Old 2008.09.27, 04:13 PM   #1
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Changes to the Front Suspension

Hello there again. We all know that changing the springs, camber, and toe have an effect on the car's handling. But what about the suspension limiters? What do they do exactly? Do they lower the car? Do they effect dampening like adding high-performance shocks as well as springs?
What's their exact purpose and why the three different settings? Is it necessary to change these when changing out springs? Is there a set to use with each set of spring?
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Old 2008.09.27, 05:20 PM   #2
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they are to ensure the tyres dont rub on the fenders on different bodies
depending on which way up you fit them they can affect damping(longer=more damping when fitted with the spring seat ontop of the knuckle)
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Old 2008.09.27, 05:34 PM   #3
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I try to run the shortest limiter I can with the specific body.

I also install them above the spring facing down, to reduce binding on the front end. Not necessarily better, but it works well for me.
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Old 2008.09.27, 06:24 PM   #4
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I had assumed they worked along with the stiffness of the springs. Stiffer springs, shorter limiter and up to the softer ones. Sounds like their for lowering the car. I'll try changing theme out on my Modena with the same springs and then try changing with springs to see if there is a difference. Thank's!
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Old 2008.09.28, 02:39 AM   #5
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They also effect body roll and tyre dig. The less movement in the shock the less it compresses so the less the chassis rolls. The more travel the more roll or lean. This also effects how the tyres interact with the road surface. With less travel the suspension and tyres will act similar to no suspension, the surface would totally effect the cars path. More travel in the form of too much and you get a chassis that acts drunk (slow and sluggish). Even if the travel is restricted by clearance issues the tyre can heat up from the rubbing then eventually lock up from being sticky and then it'll act like it's skidding or hydrolocking when under compression. The tyre could also just come off the rim from heat expansion or friction (pinched between the rim and the wheel well). The way the Zs are designed there is only a specific amount the suspension can move. The trick here is to figuer out how to keep maximum traction to all wheels and to not have the tyres rub the chassis steeling speed.

I know the following advice doesn't target your concern directly, but everything is related and it all has effect.

Check your cars ballance from right to left and front to back. Hopefully the left to right is equall, if not fix it. The front to back most likely isn't and that's okay. Obviously the type of body will effect clearance and how much sprung weight there is. Then make sure all adjustments are equall and keep track on paper what you did and how it effected the chassis (get a spiral notebook for your tool box and a mechanical pencil). Try to do 1 kind of adjustment at a time between tuning laps, you'll want to know the exact effect the adjustment has incase it causes a negative effect. Try to have someone watch your car on the track, they may see things your missing trying to keep the car on the track and avoiding other racers. Even a negative effect can help you down the road. Say you do something and lose some traction, now you know what to do on a high bite surface.

Post your set up and the body your using. See if anybody is running the same body and see what they have there's at and wether it's rubbing.

I think i might of over examined your problem a bit, but i just want you to see the big picture that is the suspension.
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Old 2008.09.28, 11:27 AM   #6
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Thank you for your anwsers. I don't want this thread to sound like one of my other set up threads. I was only refering to those suspension limiters. Right now my car feel's pretty well balanced.
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