2012.04.21, 04:50 PM
|
#16
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 874
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b
If the concern is hitting them, the design puts them 1/4 min inboard of the face of the rail. I'm still working on the final layout based on what I can fabricate vs. what I can design.
|
Great looking job
|
|
|
2012.04.21, 06:52 PM
|
#17
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
left the store with another $30 is stuff. i can never seem to leave the hardware store spending less than $30. picked up some crimp clamps to keep the wire legs together. i don't have a crimp tool but the bench vise should do nicely. the rest was cap screws, washers, nuts, wire cutting pliers. couldn't seem to find double sided tape at this store so have to hit another tomorrow.
|
|
|
2012.04.21, 07:32 PM
|
#18
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
got the half the legs crimped with a hammer. turns out i am 1 bag short of the crimps. so, 1 more tip again tomorrow....
|
|
|
2012.04.21, 07:36 PM
|
#19
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
i should have done this long ago but recommended sensor height above the track is 12-14" correct? turns out the bottom leg supports put my sensors at about 17" above the track. is this ok or do i need to crack the crimps off and shorten the top legs to get back down to about 14"?
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 09:04 AM
|
#20
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
no one.... it may be worth noting that the channel leg is 2" and will have side closure panels.
made side panels this morning out of autoscale plastic. one will hold the rj45 board. already painting them. i'll glue these to the metal legs when they are attached to the channel with goo so it's somewhat flexible.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 09:11 AM
|
#21
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
|
have you thought off plastic trunking ? (uk its egatube yt1 or yt2 used for running electrical cables in) come with sticky tape on the back then just cut the lid to length where the sensors will be then if you want to remove them just pull the lid off
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 09:28 AM
|
#22
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
some of that stuff is rather bulky. it's cable raceway here. i can get some 1/2"x3/4" self adhesive stuff. it's something i will keep in mind to get it to the button up look i prefer.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 11:53 AM
|
#23
|
MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
|
We have a bridge that puts the sensors 18" up, and one that puts them about 12" off the track. The only problem with the taller one is that it is more likely to detect a car in the adjacent lane. You have to be careful with the short bridge as well, but it just doesn't quite have the range of the tall one.
__________________
Landon
LET's Go Racing!
Last edited by hrdrvr; 2012.04.22 at 11:59 AM.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 11:55 AM
|
#24
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
bought 1 set of crimp clamps and the tape. finished the other leg but don't want to paint anything till i confirm the bridge height as i might have to break it apart to modify it.
the finished dimension to the sensor pick ups is closer to 17.5", see this full size picture. i really need to know if this is ok or if i need to lower it.
also covered the exposed side of the sensor plug in bar just so it's all consistently black.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 12:02 PM
|
#25
|
MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
|
By the looks of it, I would probably shorten it by 6" or so. It would be a shame to have to make side plates to block the adjacent lanes when you have basically an unobstructed view through the small legs.
__________________
Landon
LET's Go Racing!
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 12:22 PM
|
#26
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
thanks, i was afraid of that but anticipating it as well. oh well, i'll have to go back and get 8 more crimp clamps.
i think i'll take the sensors down to 14"+/- as i don't want to go to close to 12" and don't want to go over 15".
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 12:59 PM
|
#27
|
Curmudgeon & Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kannapolis, NC
Posts: 2,549
|
R. If the sensors are mounted well up inside the cross bridge there is little liklihood of a ghost signal from an adjoining lane at that height but with just a bit of tweaking you could mount the legs under the RCP and lower everything about two inches.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 01:36 PM
|
#28
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
the pick up sensor is taped to the channel so it's as tight as it's going to get. the leg on the channel is 2" each end will have caps as well.
yep, with 2 added bends i can get the base to sit on the floor and lip under the rail to bend back over the rail and up to the bridge. quick measurement shows that will drop it to 16"
i think i'll try it like it is and if it causes any issues, break the ferrules, trim the legs and re-crimp them to get down to 14".
Last edited by arch2b; 2012.04.22 at 01:41 PM.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 01:48 PM
|
#29
|
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
|
ordered a 25' cable so this should allow us to put the bridge just about anywhere at hobby works. i picked red so i could write on it and make it noticeable as well. i would have preferred black but i don't want people tripping on it and want to mark it clearly as club property.
|
|
|
2012.04.22, 07:57 PM
|
#30
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,356
|
Very nice work Ray. Where did you get the wire bending jig?
__________________
DG-Designs / Brooklyn Hobbies
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:17 PM.
|
|