so in summary...
for me i would generally use tamiya cement (which works great for details since it is a modelers glue) however take note where you use it since bond is just ok to good for me
and the 5min epoxy / epoxy putty for parts that need heavy duty stuff under the body...
hope this helps...
i've used 2 part epoxy's as well and even jbweld doesn't bond to the plastic surface well enough to prevent it from shearing off the plastic, especially at the front end. for this reason i use a flexible glue like walthers goo that sticks to the plastic will and remains somewhat flexible so that impacts do not typically shear the bond. it's not perfect, it doesn't provide the solid rigidity that epoxy will add to the front end but it works.
wish we could have learned what type of glue kyosho used to include with the white body kits. that stuff worked well but doesn't have a good shelf life. you often got it and it was already less viscous and less easy to work with.
i think kyosho glue was a viscous type of model glue... quite similar to the properties of the tamiya cement i used... they basically melt the plastic and eventually fuse them togeter... the only difference is that the kyosho glue was viscous (thick) and the tamiya is like a liquid, it came with a brush applicator that you kind of paint or brush on the pieces you want to be glued together.
I just found a white label version of Plastruct Bondene works well. I tested it on my old cracked 962 body. It melts the plastic together and it becomes one piece.
so in summary...
for me i would generally use tamiya cement (which works great for details since it is a modelers glue) however take note where you use it since bond is just ok to good for me
and the 5min epoxy / epoxy putty for parts that need heavy duty stuff under the body...
hope this helps...
My apologies for reviving an old thread; when you adjust the location of the side clips how do you get them off the body to start off with? I have a Audi R8 auto scale body and the clips sit way too low so the rear of the body sit too high!
Use CA debonder, I use ZAP CA debonder and you could probably find it with a google search. Just be careful not to use too much or to try and pull the clips off to early, use a little and let sit, and then use a little more and repeat until the clips come off with little to no force. If you do not use debonder and are impatient and break the clips the body may not sit right as the spacing could be off.
KWT noticed a little trick with the R8, pop off the clips, switch sides, and it sits right. maybe they have a manufacturing mix up?
i typically try to pop them off as gently as possible with a flat head screw driver. you can feel the glue bond pop some times, but as cautioned, be careful not to take flanges off with the clip. just makes it a mess to get back on as you have to spend more time gluing it on properly without the guides. there are some side clips available on shapeways if it all goes down hill on you so don't fret, there is always a back up.
The R8 is a AWD body. The clips are setup for the AWD chassis. If you look at the clips, they have an offset. If you flip them, the body sits correctly on a 2wd chassis.
in relocating the side body clips, i pried them off by using a small precision flat head screw driver a hobby knife and in some cases with the help of a dremel...
here's a relocation job i did on the mercedes c9 body ---> click here
The R8 is a AWD body. The clips are setup for the AWD chassis. If you look at the clips, they have an offset. If you flip them, the body sits correctly on a 2wd chassis.
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