2017.01.10, 11:45 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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gp cog
I know Arch2b has similar issue but getting cogging on light throttle in both directions on one of my gp chassis in LM confg:
https://youtu.be/rowLbXn7tU0
I'm slowly increasing throttle and it cogs then finally moves - tried putting travel back to 100 both directions already.
Why would this happen all the sudden?
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2017.01.10, 12:24 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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to reduce the cog try changing the gearing you can keep the overall gear ratio but go with a smaller pinion. also there a some changes you can make on the board with the ICS that helps as well. the setting that affect the torque.
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2017.01.10, 02:14 PM
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#3
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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I find it happens to me most often with batteries that aren't at their peak...just a suggestion.
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2017.01.10, 03:23 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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I tried different cells/fully charged etc..... I just don't get why it would happen on one and not the other chassis. A contact a Kyosho said he doubts the ICS settings will help.
Do others have it like this? Arch? I know Larry said he was unable to bind but nothing on cog like that. The car is feeling/running great when it gets going but man...
Brian - I would try a lesser pinion ( I have 9t Derlin on both now) but again, my other car with same setup essentially is not cogging. Is that a motor OR board issue maybe?
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2017.01.10, 03:57 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blf
I tried different cells/fully charged etc..... I just don't get why it would happen on one and not the other chassis. A contact a Kyosho said he doubts the ICS settings will help.
Do others have it like this? Arch? I know Larry said he was unable to bind but nothing on cog like that. The car is feeling/running great when it gets going but man...
Brian - I would try a lesser pinion ( I have 9t Derlin on both now) but again, my other car with same setup essentially is not cogging. Is that a motor OR board issue maybe?
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I would give it a shot and see if it goes away. might just be slight differences in the motors.
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2017.01.10, 04:36 PM
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#6
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Have you tried swapping motors with the car that does not cog to see if it is a motor or pcb issue?
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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2017.01.10, 06:06 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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Good points guys ----- I actually saw an improvement from standing start with progressively more throttle with a stock 7t -----but still there a little. But its showed definite improvement.
Man those pinions are loud though --- are there any derlin options in 6t and 7t? The Pro 2 Derlin with set screw locking are what I use normally (and working perfectly with the other GP BTW)
I'll maybe just try a stock VE Xspeed maroon colored motor I have drilled here to see if its any different.
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2017.01.10, 06:27 PM
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#8
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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The PN 3500 is smooth. Also try 64P. gears...smoother and more quiet. Not sure what you have on now.
On another note...as far as binding issues for me, i believe i may have puffed the board by putting the wrong batteries in accidently. Regular AAA/LIPO AAA. Tried another VE board and all is good.
__________________
MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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2017.01.10, 10:33 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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Wow on the boards frying - on that note, kyosho thinks it's maybe motor wires damaged or the board itself. Anyone ever have that happen?
I did remember making a tiny nick in the esc wire when cutting the original zip tie holding the wires to the motor case to keep them out of the way. I covered it with a pinhead of bondic and thought nothing of it. Could that be the cause?
The is car feeling fantastic around the track otherwise - I love it
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2017.01.11, 06:55 AM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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for me it's not the motor. I tried the kyosho red and blue, atomic 5500kv, and pn 3500kv. some are worse than others. unfortunately i tossed the kyosho motors thinking there was something flawed in the motors as they were drilled and tapped that was a costly mistake. I'm giving up on brushless for the time being. i simply do not have the time to deal with a finicky car anymore, much like F1. time is better spent on properly taking care of my other cars instead of endless troubleshooting on one in particular.
good luck to you though, i'll be following this just in case i bring my VE Pro board back out and put into something.
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2017.01.11, 07:03 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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I hear you on not wasting time chasing issues - I'd rather be running/maitaining the "good ones" in my arsenal but I always try to save the problem cars
I'll try a new motor and see if it's the board I suppose first
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2017.01.11, 09:53 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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Update:
Just put a brand new Burgundy colored xspeed ve in and not a cog sight..... Does that mean it definitely the motor or is it maybe still the board and how it interacts with the 12000kv?
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2017.01.11, 11:38 AM
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#13
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Bavarian Bullet
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 34
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Hey I have had the exact same issue as you have described. It happened to me when the engine became very hot during one particular run. I believe what happens is that the small protective film around the wire coils wears out and a short is made in the wires (maybe this happens because the rotor expands and makes contact with the wires, I noticed the magnet casing had some scratch marks, or the film simply overheats and dissolves, I'm not sure). I tired to apply some glue to the coils in an attempt to stop the short and this did make the engine work again, but only temporarily, as the engine heated back up it started to cog again. I haven't found any solution yet other than what you did which is to replace the engine. But for sure this is not the same issue as having poor batteries, connected wires to the engine or even a fet issue as I already tried all those possibilities. If you could check your rotor and let me know if you see any scratch marks maybe one of my theories could be correct.
Last edited by Kevinmueller; 2017.01.11 at 05:11 PM.
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2017.01.11, 04:33 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 204
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I'll take a look - yes it's running great with the xspeed ve that came with a ve pro
Larry, on th 64p recommendation, can I use the 51 tooth spurs from reflex with an otherwise stock kyosho ball diff? Looks like it just requires using a bearing in the center and then just use the kyosho plates / housing e clip etc?
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2017.01.11, 06:12 PM
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#15
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blf
I'll take a look - yes it's running great with the xspeed ve that came with a ve pro
Larry, on th 64p recommendation, can I use the 51 tooth spurs from reflex with an otherwise stock kyosho ball diff? Looks like it just requires using a bearing in the center and then just use the kyosho plates / housing e clip etc?
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As long as the REFLEX spur is 64P, yes. Which i believe thats all they made. I assume with some work, dont exactly remember anymore, it would work with Kyosho diff. Im thinking maybe the inside hub needed some sanding?
Ive been using the PN complete diff. for a long time now.
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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