hi, i have few crack on the mini-z bodies, i have applied some plastic thin glue and it got splitted again, then.. i have decided to put some tamiya plastic epoxy on the area it is cracked so it might prevent further cracking..
now the epoxy is dried and solid as rock. i found that epoxy makes the body gain bit of weight at the front of the car.. as the kyosho designed the mini-z very well balanced weight on the car.. do you think this would be a bad idea? also do you think the front weight could make the chassis damage when crashed?
i have attached some photos..
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MA-010 chassis Subaru WRX STi Type R
Kyosho Ti64 center shaft
Kyosho Al motor mount
3Racing Al motor cover
Atomic Al rear toe 1deg
Yeah Racing ball bearings
hi, i have few crack on the mini-z bodies, i have applied some plastic thin glue and it got splitted again, then.. i have decided to put some tamiya plastic epoxy on the area it is cracked so it might prevent further cracking..
now the epoxy is dried and solid as rock. i found that epoxy makes the body gain bit of weight at the front of the car.. as the kyosho designed the mini-z very well balanced weight on the car.. do you think this would be a bad idea? also do you think the front weight could make the chassis damage when crashed?
i have attached some photos..
i am not sure about how much of a handling difference you will notice, but i can tell you medium or thich CA is what i've used and it's incredibly strong and not heavy if used in moderation, and moderation should be considered because the damn stuff is so strong.
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MA-010 chassis Subaru WRX STi Type R
Kyosho Ti64 center shaft
Kyosho Al motor mount
3Racing Al motor cover
Atomic Al rear toe 1deg
Yeah Racing ball bearings
i have quite a lot of experience with cracked bodies (not a good thing)
and i find that while CA glue is strong, it re-cracks after a while. Best thing to do is CA glue the crack, then re-inforce with JB-Weld underneath
did you try medium or thick grade CA? Like i mentioned, I've used med AND thick CA to repair major cracks and it's held up to everything + it's light. Thin CA will hold it, but does not offer the same strength or gap filling ability.
i didn't used the CA glue on the body, first i used the tamiya thin plastic cement, that made the plastic melt together and stuck together.. but after few hard crashes, i got recracked once more, so i decided to put the epoxy.. after putting epoxy, handling feels smilar and on the hard crashes its make more solid bang sound. its not cracking yet and still in good shape..
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MA-010 chassis Subaru WRX STi Type R
Kyosho Ti64 center shaft
Kyosho Al motor mount
3Racing Al motor cover
Atomic Al rear toe 1deg
Yeah Racing ball bearings
The solution is really simple guys....I have repaired body broken clear in half, have cut model bodies apart and re-attached them, I have taken whole nose clips from different cars and attached them to make a broken body work like new, and all have held up as well or better than the stock bodies.
First you do have to make a trip to your local hobby shop, now over there next to the train stuff is a whole rack of plastic sheet and tubing and such (used by the railroaders to build scale model buildings) get a sheet of thin smooth styrene sheet and a tube of Testors or Tamiya model glue.
Stick the broken pieces back into thier original positions and tack them from the inside with just the slightest amount of CA to hold them in place. Cut small strips from the styrene sheet to cover the brokens pieces where they join, you need a little overlap but not much. Apply the model glue to the damaged area, wait a full minute then press the small styrene "Bandage" into place and hold. The glue should set up quickly and once done. Some fine sanding and paint may be needed on the outside but when this is done properly the body should be good as new.
I even do this treatment to all my new bodys now tho reinforce the front end and it makes them much much stronger.....I do provide this service for those who want it....body rebuilds, front end jobs, custom work....have done quite a few for members here, though few will ever admit who did thier work...LOL
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