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Old 2002.09.25, 05:13 PM   #16
Incubusions
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the charger used to charge the batteries, is the rayovac 8 slot aa, or aaa nimh charger
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Old 2002.09.25, 08:30 PM   #17
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ok well its not lagging anymore, with the stock motor, but i ordered a x speed, and frankly, theres no lag, but the stock motor is faster than the x speed, WTF? Do i need a bigger pinion gear to utelize the power of the xspeed, or is it that the x speed could just have problems?
The difference isnt that big between the x speed, but acceleration is slower, and top speed is the same, maybe 1 mph or 2 mph less.
anything that i can do?
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Old 2002.09.25, 11:05 PM   #18
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Wires.

What I was refering to was the battery terminal to wire connection.
Take a look at the exlpoded view on the manual. The ring terminals on the end of each power input wire are pinched against the metal strips connecting to the battery. This connection is tightened by the two horizontals screws on the rear bulkhead. These may be loose and cause variation in your speed. A loose connction and the higher drain of an X-speed could cause the symptoms you describe.
Just a hunch, but worth a try.
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Old 2002.09.26, 12:38 AM   #19
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How long are you letting the 4 AAA charge? for the car?
And is that a 3 in 1 or a 2 in 1 charger? they all look the same... if its black its the 3 in 1.. but the greys were upgraded over time, from renewable only to renew and nicad then to all 3... only the 3 in 1 does the NIMH propperly.
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Old 2002.09.26, 08:06 AM   #20
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its the black one, it is made for nimh.
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Old 2002.09.26, 08:54 AM   #21
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the 3 in 1
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Old 2002.09.26, 08:56 AM   #22
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So i brushed off the circuit board and its spotless, on top, the bottom i couldnt really get to with the brush. Is the ESC on top of the circuit board or on the bottom?
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Old 2002.09.26, 09:01 AM   #23
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Re: Wires.

Quote:
Originally posted by W-tone

Take a look at the exlpoded view on the manual. The ring terminals on the end of each power input wire are pinched against the metal strips connecting to the battery. This connection is tightened by the two horizontals screws on the rear bulkhead.
Ok i found the manual online. If you take off the h bar and rear wheels, diff, motor, and just look at the back of the car, the two screws right there? The ones that are directly at the back, not on the top or the bottom, the back? cause if those are them, i took them out to clean the circuit board, and then i tightened them back up, when i put the circuit board back in place, since they are the only screws that keep the board tight in its place.

Last edited by Incubusions; 2002.09.26 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 2002.09.26, 11:49 AM   #24
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And how long do the cells stay on the charger, before you pull them off after being dead?


the esc is the circut board... its sort of mixed and matched throughout.. sharing a few parts with the reciever... powerwise.

I usualy use a tooth brush to clean mine if it gets realy gunky.
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Old 2002.09.26, 11:50 AM   #25
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you realy should not remove those horisontal rear screws, they hold two wires together make sure they are conducting propperly a loose connection here results in a SLOW or dead miniz.
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Old 2002.09.26, 02:49 PM   #26
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ok, i wont anymore, thanx. Well, my problem is solved, i went to the local store and bought 8 extra cells. 4 alkaline(1.5v), and 4 energizer ACCU rechargables(1.2 v). I popped the alkalines in, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Finnally the x-speed was utelized, it was faster, more responsive and easier to control than ever before, like a whole different car. So i popped the energizers on the charger, and the charge light went off after 5 mins, so i thought, that they had been pre-charged, i popped them in my mini and they died out in 30 seconds, BUT, they had the same or more power than the alkalines, and way more than the batteries rayovac nimh's i had before. So no i have both sets of NIMH (rayovac and Energizer on the charger, well see tomorrow if the problem is within the charger, cause it definelty isnt in the car.

Thank you guys for all your help, i learned alot, and now if something else screws up, power wise, ill know what to do, mostly =)

Now its a witing game for new parts, topcad ball diff is in the mail along with squat dry bearing set. I wont mess with the sus. untill really nessecary, like when i find somewhere or someone to race, lol, cause around here rc racing is scarce.
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Old 2002.09.26, 03:14 PM   #27
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Alternate Charger Methods????

Has anyone tried getting a decent NiMH charger and making an adapter?

Most of the local atlanta guys here are using NiMH chargers for competition RC charging. The best bang for the buck in my opinion is the MRC SuperBrain 959 which you can get for about 45 bucks. I then went to radio shack to get a 4 AAA cell holder and made a connector for charging. Total cost of about 2 bucks.

Now I have a charger that peaks NiMH not only AAA's but all batteries, and completes the charge at 1A in about 40 minutes.

Just a thought as it seems most are buying chargers that are specific to one cell type.

Bryan
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Old 2002.09.26, 10:00 PM   #28
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I do prefer the individual charge control of my GP smart powerbank.
Yes it takes about 65min to fully charge 700mAh AAA cells, but I think that's worth it.
I also have a pack charger in the works.
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Old 2002.09.29, 01:10 PM   #29
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Re: Alternate Charger Methods????

Quote:
Originally posted by Mugen
Has anyone tried getting a decent NiMH charger and making an adapter?
I use a 1-14 cell peak charger w/ adjustable rate that can go down to 1/3AAAs no problem. I use a special 4-cell AA/AAA charging tray from ****** (in stock, but not yet listed in the Shop). It makes a HUGE difference. My Rayovac PS4s are only used for Tx batteries now.
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