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Old 2008.05.16, 06:10 AM   #1
Aurora
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Crawlability? Modded Monster vs Radline vs Xmod truck?

Hi, all.

I had recently had been trying to make my monster a more crawl-able truck, and had done the LSSM mod with both front and rear wheels extended. So far I am happy with the progress, but am wondering whether which platform or project to take on next.

Currently I am planning to lock diffs and install lowly geared motor into one of the following:

1) LSSM modded Monster
2) Xmod truck with metal drivetrain
3) Radline?


I was kinda shocked to see that even with the LSSM monster (which the chassis has better clearance and articulation) , the Radline in stock form might be able to 'out crawl' the monster due to the 4wd. And I wonder whether I should focus more effort to mod the Xmod (articulation, wheel whooble fix, low-geared motor, etc) to make it a better crawler?
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Old 2008.05.16, 02:38 PM   #2
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I would go with the Xmod if can get rid of the slop.Using a servo motor makes it really slow but, it has tons of torque and goes over anything.
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Old 2008.05.19, 09:30 AM   #3
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I beg to differ, all a MZM needs is free, you just need to remove the front shocks, then you get a good inch or two of articulation, even with a body on. and the body won't lean everytime you turn.
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Old 2008.05.19, 01:44 PM   #4
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Greekone,

Thanks for the reply, I am researching for useful info which will make the xmod truck more crawl-able. I think there are probably three areas that I need to work in:

1) Bump steer/steering slop/whobble wheel fix--whobble wheel is just shimming, but bump steer might need more work. Probably go with the paperclip Avant's method

2) Low gear ratio with geared motor--I have ordered some sanyo motors and geared motors, and hopefully be able to make it work with the truck...

3) Articulation--that should not be too difficult, just modding the mid section of the car should make it work much better

4) Tires--in process of communicating with .Cooldragon and trying to locate the lego wheels/swampers/etc

Wish me luck!



Nasher,

Actually, for the monster, I feel the truck might not run too straight without the springs or the links, but I find it completely ok without the rear shock and that is what I have been running right now. Hopefully I get to put in one of those geared motors to make this more crawl-able...
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Old 2008.05.20, 04:27 AM   #5
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By the way, for modders who have made the Xmod crawler--do I need to use the metal drive shaft(from GPM) to beefup the drivetrain?

I notice Atomicm@ds said it will not work with the liftup kit, and wondering whether the tradeoff is worth it?
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Old 2008.05.20, 03:13 PM   #6
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Are you guys talking about AWD monster/overland?

I want to buy a monster truck but I don't like it being rear wheel drive only. Can you guys show me a link on where I can convert this 2wd to 4wd? I have a backyard that would fit perfectly for an awd monster truck .

Thanks!
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Old 2008.05.20, 05:49 PM   #7
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You can just use the driveshaft that comes with the 4wd kit and AM says that what won't work with the lift kit?

We were talking about Xmod trucks and making them capable crawlers.I've only seen an OL converted to 4wd once and that was on youtube.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=RdpPyr4Bx4E
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Old 2008.05.21, 12:17 AM   #8
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Tjay,

Unfortunately, that remains a dream for now. I was in Japan few months ago, and chatted with a track owner who sees KY miniz inventors on regular basis; and I'd propose him the idea of a miniz crawler. Hopefully that dream will be fulfilled in not so distant.


Greekone,

Nah, AM didn't say that, but they claimed the GPM driveshafts will not work with the xmod liftup kit since GPM only does stock stuff.

My question is if the GPM driveshaft indeed cannot work with the liftup kit, should I make the tradeoff between the liftup kit vs 'bulletproof' the drivetrain? Which one is more important for making a 'capable' xmod crawler?
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Old 2008.05.21, 02:49 PM   #9
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You don't need the GPM shaft just keep the stock one and get GPM diffs,axle stubs,and the Hot Racing dogbones like Jace said in the other thread.
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Old 2008.05.21, 06:05 PM   #10
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by greekone View Post
You don't need the GPM shaft just keep the stock one and get GPM diffs,axle stubs,and the Hot Racing dogbones like Jace said in the other thread.
exactly , exept you need STOCK axle stubs because they are closed, gpm are open(that's important when you use a spring to push the dogbone to the outside of the stub). GPM diff, hot racing alloy dogbones(ebay?), stock axle stubs, lift kit.

You may want to consider not using a lift kit and getting tall tires instread, i did that. allows you to use gpm axles
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Last edited by Jace1283; 2008.05.22 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 2008.05.21, 10:48 PM   #11
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You can get the Hot Racing dogbones on Ebay or liquidrc.com
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Old 2008.05.22, 01:43 AM   #12
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Have any of you guys visited Mini-zracer's and RCP Tracks new site? It is www.minirccrawler.com. If you haven't been there yet, take a look. You may find current answers to your questions over there or at least be able to find the people that can help you out.

Regarding a Kyosho mini-z crawler, don't count on it any time soon. It is too expesive to manufacture. You can expect something a little bigger, but still in the micro family.
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Old 2008.05.22, 02:12 AM   #13
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Hi, all.

Just like to update the progress on my little crawler project...

Since I am starting to convert my AWD to 2.4G, I do have spare a fetted AD band board to use, and that is what I did to put in onto my xmod truck.

I have kept the stock servo motor and VR, but the turning radius is so big that we might as well call it a drag car. I ended up using the ICS setting to double the travel limit of the steering servo motor, and that turns out to be just barely ok. But the control and response is fantastic as of now.

Right now, the truck is using the GPM knuckles and stub/DB are still stock. I put in a 37 hand wound motor and it can climb 50-60+ deg slope on a cardbox, just by using the xmod offroad tires. I do look forward to acquire the cooldragon tires, if I were to be able to locate him...

I have tuned the front ball diff all the way tight, to simulate a locked diff...but am thinking to loosen that up a bit to gain potential upside on the turning radius, but the rear I probably will lock up the GPM ball diff.



Next step is probably to try either one of the following two combos:

1) Use liftup kit, and use Hot racing rear dog bones(for both front and back), and find metal stub. Install large tires. High CG but more clearance.

2) No liftup kit, use GPM axles with large tires. Lower CG, less clearance and probably less articulation as well.

I don't know which one will crawl better, what do you think?


And when I received my package of geared motors, that is where the fun should begin...



RCP miniz,

Thanks for the tips, I too am a member there; and I probably will post my findings and results when I am almost done over there.

As for anyone who is interested in a 4WD monster, I know the new IW 05 will be a 4WD in a psedo-monster form, though it might not be Ky quality.
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Old 2008.05.22, 09:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCPMini-z View Post
Have any of you guys visited Mini-zracer's and RCP Tracks new site? It is www.minirccrawler.com. If you haven't been there yet, take a look. You may find current answers to your questions over there or at least be able to find the people that can help you out.
thats awsome!

Aurora, check the link in my signature and you'll find videos of my xmod crawler and also another xmod truck thats running on lithium. Both are offroaders, blue f150 is the lithium and the hummer is the servo crawler. may help give an idea of what your making
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Old 2008.05.25, 10:23 PM   #15
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Jace,

Thanks for the link. After seeing your vids, I wonder there is a video on youtube somewhere that details a mechanism where a servo was placed on top of the steering cover--was that by any chance your work? That was definitely original!

A quick update on my progress, many parts are ordered, and currently I have gotten the geared motors. I probably will follow Avant's link info where a person have installed the small motor in a 130 can. But my only concern is the motor is only spec at 3v, and whether the over voltage will kill the motor...

Anyway, I shall keep updating this thread as we go along.
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