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Old 2010.10.03, 01:04 PM   #76
mleemor60
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Thanks Larry. I have one of the new mounts in 98+ and I have the tri shock that Davey G assembled for me at Maj's. When you try to mount everything it doesn't line up. The damper bracket seems to pull everything off center. Likely my fault.
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Old 2010.10.03, 01:23 PM   #77
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Mike, im not sure how you have it. 1 of mine has the side shocks and all is good. I think it gives you more space with this pod.

Double check your lower carbon bar/piece. For some reason my 98 version has more holes in it than my 94(where the screws go to the aluminum axle pieces). Im thinking they may be for other wheel bases. If so, you may be able to do 96?
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Old 2010.10.03, 02:49 PM   #78
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I will keep fooling with it. I really feel that this is not the way to go but until I try it I can't be sure. With the T-plate at least.
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Old 2010.10.03, 07:20 PM   #79
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from what understand the 98-100 pod will be able to do from 90-100. all that will be needed is motor mount, as this pod is drilled with the 94-96 holes in bottom plate. i think with the 98-100 mount you can already do 96 with the 98 motor mount if you run a small tooth pinion. i have yet to try it though. plus you could also do 102 with rr 96 t plates.
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Old 2010.10.03, 07:43 PM   #80
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I might be working on something that can't be done with the existing bit's. I am currently working at 98mm but ultimately will want to take it to 102.
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Old 2010.10.03, 09:20 PM   #81
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You should be able to do 102 by using an RM t-plate, or moving the MM t-plate back one position. Then you just have to work on the damper, which I am sure that you can figure out something.

From what I see, the difference between the 94 and 98 mounts are the lower carbon plate, and the motor adapter (98mm mount has adapter that lays the motor flat).
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Old 2010.10.03, 10:17 PM   #82
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the 98s carbon plate has the holes drilled in it to do 94-96 its just the motor mount that is needed. the 98 plate is just 2mm longer to allow 98-100.
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Old 2010.10.03, 11:37 PM   #83
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98mm mount

94mm mount


You can see in the first picture, that the 98mm mount has 2 sets of screw holes for the lower plate, ones for 94/96, and ones for 98/100 when using a standard MM t-plate in the shortest position.

When using the 94/96mm position, you would need to use the 94mm motor adapter.

When using a 98+ wheelbase, with the 98 plate, you can use the motor adapter that comes with the 98mm mount and lays the motor flat. The damper remains in the same position, but the rear axle moves back. I would assume that you could use the 94mm motor adapter as well, but would have higher CG (which isnt always a bad thing)

You can use the 94mm mount in the 98mm position by moving the t-plate back one position, but then you have to move the damper back with it. This is possible with current tri-damper setups. For 102mm, you would need to use the 98mm mount, with the 94mm tri damper set to the 98mm wheelbase setting.
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Old 2010.10.04, 02:01 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by chad508 View Post
not sure if im the only one with this problem so im asking. got 1 each of both pods, but have found that the pn diff adjusting nut rubs on the alum. bracket. i have swaped it out for a qteq and it works fine. but on the non drive side the hub nut also rubs on the alum bracket. ive tried a few other brand hub nuts but they all rub and start to bind. i find my self having to shim it off the bearing about .4mm to get it to clear. but then i have clearance issues with that side tire and body when running 0* offsets. anyone else have a better solution?
Are you checking the clearance with the ball diff tightened or loose? If the adjuster is loosened, it can rub on the motor mount, but with it tightened, there should be clearance even with no shim.
For the bearing, a small washer should be used regardless of clearance. That way, the rotating parts do not contact both the inner and outer race of the bearing.
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Old 2010.10.04, 03:11 PM   #85
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im finding the pn orange nut to be the only one with the problem. with it as tight as i can get it, not that i would race it this way, it leaves 1 maybe 2 threads on the shaft and still hits the lower part of the of the alum bracket just below the bearing. ive noticed that the new pn delrin nut has its corners knocked off and may be what has to be done with this nut as well.
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Old 2010.10.27, 02:03 PM   #86
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The new mount isn't entirely backwards-compatible, so buying a new nut may be part of the price of switching over. Thankfully they're not expensive. Have you shimmed out the axle to see if you can make clearance? With the newer PN shafts you can shim each wheel out almost a full mm to make clearance for stuff (don't forget to use a narrower offset wheel).

I just ordered one of the 98+ mounts in blue, along with V2 plates for the TDS. Hoping to get that TDS as low as humanly possible and then slap a lightweight body on top of it.
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