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Old 2020.06.27, 02:40 PM   #1
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Alternative headlight connections

I have a few cars with headlights, and I really like driving with them. However, after years of use, I can't seem to train myself to remember that the body is attached to the chassis with a delicate cable, and more often than not I give it an unnecessary yank when I go to change batteries. I want to figure out an alternative connection that either eliminates or mitigates this problem. I know the Kyosho light kits use the port on the board, but I'm not concerned about brake light function for this discussion, just 6v power.

Two ideas I have are a magnetic connection, and a connection involving the side body clips, or the area right near them.

I've been looking for a micro magnetic connector, but so far haven't found one. I'm thinking about something like Mac laptop power cables that is held in place magnetically, but will release without damage if pulled.

The side clip idea is the one I actually am more interested in, as it seems slicker. If I had the skills and materials, I can imagine just having a wire or thin copper strip that goes from the battery terminals to the chassis slot where the body clips attach; and then on the body, the positive lead goes to driver's side, and neg lead to passenger side body clip, and the connection is made when the clip enters the slot.

A third idea is just adding a couple button cells and a switch and having the lights self-powered, but that seems like a lot of weight up high.

Anyone tried anything similar, or have any ideas or suggestions?

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Last edited by SuperFly; 2020.06.27 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 2020.06.27, 03:30 PM   #2
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Old 2020.06.28, 12:05 AM   #3
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I have never tried this, but here are my thoughts:

1.) Plug the lights into your board
2.) Cut the wires so that they will reach the indent for the rear body mounts .
3.) Wrap copper foil around body indent on both sides.
4.) Solder or epoxy positive on one side, negative on the other.
5.) Do the same thing on the body, making sure the copper foil is on the part that mates with the chassis and positive and negative match.

If all goes well, the circuit would open when you take the body off, and close when you put it on, and you would keep the brake light functionality.

This is all very theoretical. I haven't worked with copper foil much. As I think about it, it might be better to use the same process with the front mount because it is tighter, and you could just attach flat strips of copper to the chassis and body instead of some more challenging contours.

Good luck!
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