Are the kingpin ball joints supposed to flop around freely or have a slight tension to them?
With the hole of the ball in a vertical position put the kingpin all the wy into the ball then release it. It should fall out quickly by it's own weight. If it doesn't, it's too tight. On the other hand, you want it to have as little wobble as possible. You are better off with too loose than too tight.
Last edited by skyler; 2010.02.04 at 02:12 PM.
Reason: spelling
The mold are quite different from car to car.
I have some bottom plates that needed a lot of polishing before they were free enough, and a couple that were almost to free out of the box.
The Atomic lower arm mount seem to be very precise. at least mine were perfect when i got it. I have yet to hear from anyone else with these mounts, so time will tell if this is correct.
Take your time to make sure everything is smooth. This is absolutely worth the time spendt.
The mold are quite different from car to car.
I have some bottom plates that needed a lot of polishing before they were free enough, and a couple that were almost to free out of the box.
The Atomic lower arm mount seem to be very precise. at least mine were perfect when i got it. I have yet to hear from anyone else with these mounts, so time will tell if this is correct.
Take your time to make sure everything is smooth. This is absolutely worth the time spendt.
Thread necromancy.
How does one polish the ball sockets on a lower plate? Or, how does one polish the ball at the end of a kingpin sufficiently without scuffing up the kinpin shaft by putting it in a Dremel chuck?
I have one of the hardened arm sets that comes with a hardened bottom plate, and one of the kingpins moves, but not super freely.
Things I've already tried:
- metal polish on ball end
-put rubbing compound inside ball joint, put the ball-end in and worked it around
-lubrication in ball joint.
I'm afraid of scuffing either the kingpin shaft or the ball socket interior.
A little toothpaste could work if you dont have a metal polish handy. Just be sure to clean up well.
What front end are you working with that has stiff balls? I havent had any that I had needed to free up much beyond hand work.
Do you have other balls that you could try? If its a metal ball in a metal arm, that is not recommended, it should always be a plastic ball in a metal arm, or a metal ball in a plastic arm (delrin in plastic is fine too).
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EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
The bottom plate and the arms are Kyosho MZW433, it's a harder, stiffer compound than the stock plastic. The kinpins look like either titanium or a teflon-coated metal, don't look like stainless. The balls float freely in the arm sockets, it's just the kingpin ball on one side in the bottom plate that's problematic.
Snap a stock kingpin in its place, see if it's free. If it is, then swap sides of the fluorine coated kingpins and see if it's a ball issue or a socket issue. If it's a socket issue, then you can chuck the stock kingpin in a dremel and use only the lowest speed with some toothpaste. No more than 5 second intervals, you don't want to heat the plastic so that it melts, which then you will mess up the socket (I speak from experience). Keep it slow, and take your time. Let the socket cool substantially. When it feels almost free, clean it out and test the fluorine kingpin.
You don't want to get polish on the coated kingpin.
__________________
EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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