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Old 2018.01.11, 05:49 PM   #1
RFick73
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Parts question thread.

Hey guys,

I decided to start a parts question thread as we have a few new members & well, even some of us older guys need answers to questions now & then.

I was asked by a member what the best MM & LM motor mount options are now a days for the undrilled/tapped Brushless & Brushed motors. I just realized most of my old mounts are in my parts box because none of my newer cars have drilled/tapped motors in um. =/

Thoughts?
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Old 2018.01.11, 09:08 PM   #2
TeeSquared
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The Kyosho R246 metal mounts are all suitable for undrilled motors. I currently have a car with the MM pod (R246-1201), and another with the LM pod (R246-1202) though for MM applications I'd suggest R246-1351 which is the same LM pod but the rear axle height is suitable for MM applications. I used to think 1202 and 1351 were the same part, but on closer inspection the difference is the rear axle height. Anyone who has run the LM pod in the 98mm configuration to use with racing bodies will notice that the rear sits much lower than the MM motor pod because the LM bodies have larger diameter rear wheels. Thus, when used with non-LM rear wheels, the cars butt droops

Tl;DR:

R246-1201: MM alloy pod - safest choice
R246-1202: LM Alloy pod - Need to take into consideration the reduced rear ride height (axle is about 1-2 mm higher)
R246-1351: MML motor pod specifically for running 98 mm race bodies like the 12C and R8.

Last edited by TeeSquared; 2018.01.11 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 2018.01.11, 09:46 PM   #3
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I should include some information on fitting dampers to them so others avoid my mistakes and end up buying things twice

For 1201:

Best choice (IMHO) is MZW425 paired with MZW432 or MZW207. This is the standard Kyosho MM damper set and I've had very good luck with it. It also fits the motor pod perfectly and will not require any spacers or tweaking to work out of the box. R246-1222 is my second choice but I'm not a fan of the included shock as it tends to leak.

For 1202 and 1351:

If you plan to run your car in the 98mm wheelbase configuration with either of these pods, you will need R246-1352. The MZW425 + MZW432/MZW207 pair will work but you will also need MZW306 and you will need to modify the part a bit to fit, but it is possible.

There, clear as mud right?

Last edited by TeeSquared; 2018.01.11 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 2018.01.12, 08:33 AM   #4
RFick73
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Awesome info, thanx T!

I believe you mentioned that you have been moving over to the LM mounts. Care to go into more detail on why & how it's worked for you thus far? I'm thinking of possibly converting one of mine if it would give an advantage.
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-=MR-03: VE-Eco (Stock) 98mm Pearl Yellow Lamborghini Murcielago LP670-4 SV | VE (Mod) 98mm Yellow Ferrari 458 Italia GT2=-
-=
MA-020 AWD VE Custom Nissan GT-R GT500 2008=-
-=MA-015 Custom Citreon DS3 WRC 2011=-
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F1 Jordon Honda EJ11 2001 Jarno Trulli "Bitten Heroes" #12=-
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Old 2018.01.12, 11:33 AM   #5
TeeSquared
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The LM motor pod fits the motor a little lower in the chassis which for racing on RCP is definitely an advantage. There are things to consider if you switch though, such as the afforementioned change in rear ride height with either the stock plastic LM pod or R246-1202. Also, you need an LM ball diff shaft and rims to suit your body since switching to the LM pod adds 2 mm of offset to each side of the car. On the R8 and 12C for example, where you use a +3 rim with the stock MM pod, for the LM pod you will use +1 rim for the same total offset.

For beginners, I'd definitely suggest sticking with the MM pod to start and upgrade to an LM configuration only if they are willing to invest in the parts needed (can add up pretty quick since Kyosho parts aren't cheap) and the time and effort to get the car working right. All said and done though, the set-up is probably a little faster on RCP than MM. The handling is slightly sharper and the car changes directions quicker. There is less chassis roll and less tendency to traction roll.

Last edited by TeeSquared; 2018.01.12 at 11:45 AM.
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