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Old 2018.12.07, 08:18 AM   #1
Qball41
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Better or not?

With an MR-03 LM chassis, there is already a rear damper plate that comes with it. Obviously the pieces are plastic vs. carbon. Is the aftermarket dampers any better than the stock? Or can you just use aftermarket springs with the stock damper?
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Old 2018.12.07, 02:23 PM   #2
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You can kind of compare the LM damper to a stock radio, and the upgrade dampers to a higher end radio.

Both serve the same function, and can do the job. The LM damper feels a bit cheap, and it's limited in tuning options. Whereas the upgrades dampers you can really see and feel the quality, have different disc and plates for various friction coefficients, and option springs to adjust spring rates.

In the end, you can adjust the dampness of the LM with the viscosity of grease you put on the disc, and I find that it works considerably better than it looks and feels, much like the newest kt-531 stock radio. If you like tuning options, and want to reduce plate flex, and have a slightly more controlled setup, then a carbon or frp damper system might be better despite not really having a drop in lap time..

In the end, the LM damper is good, but has its limitations. There are more tuning options with damper kits. You might be able to find a tenth or make the car a little more fine tuned to the track. With modified motors, you can more easily set the car to squat off the corner, but the LM damper isn't as bad as people initially think it is.

The aftermarket springs are too small to fit the LM damper post. You might be able to find some springs that could work.
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Old 2018.12.07, 02:40 PM   #3
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I think that stock plastic one works fine. Also, it comes with a little offset piece that allows you to use an oil spring. Without it, a spring won't fit under a 962.

I also have the R246-1222, but as I mentioned, need to get a solution that offsets the spring towards the front of the car to get it to fit under the sloping roof.





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Old 2018.12.07, 03:21 PM   #4
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Thanks guys!
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Old 2018.12.08, 01:43 AM   #5
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What front end in blue do we see on the picture?

The reason I ask is that I wanted to change camber on my MR03, and bought 1 and 2 degree knuckles to do so (from R246), are there other options to change camber?

Last edited by HaCo; 2018.12.08 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 2018.12.09, 03:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCo View Post
What front end in blue do we see on the picture?

The reason I ask is that I wanted to change camber on my MR03, and bought 1 and 2 degree knuckles to do so (from R246), are there other options to change camber?

It's this. Atomic 2˚ caster tower bar, and 0˚ camber aluminum arms.

The different static tower bars are usually a caster adjustment, but arms can come with a camber.
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Old 2018.12.09, 04:59 PM   #7
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I prefer not using cambered upper arms, as increased camber will also increase camber gain which is something that you want to minimize for mid to high traction surfaces. On low traction surfaces, the camber gain can help rotate the car through the mid corner, provided you have a more stable tire arrangement and dont lose the rear end.

In general, it is better to use a cambered knuckle than a cambered upper arm to increase static camber. When adding negative camber to the upper arm, you are effectively shortening the arm from the hinge to the kingpin, therefore increasing camber gain. The only way to combat this would be to raise the hinge pin and/or lower the arm on the kingpin. With inboard suspension (default MR03 style), this will change the preload on the front springs, and might make the front springs pop out if you go too far in both directions with changes.

Atomic upper arms had caster options, but dont think that they had camber options.

The old Reflex, and current x-power upper arms have multiple camber and caster options on one part, which in my opinion would be the appropriate method of attack if you are looking for a part to gain camber and caster without increasing camber gain much. If you use a coil over kingpin suspension arrangement, you can raise and lower the upper tower to change the geometry of the upper arm to adjust roll center without effecting preload of the front suspension. Higher speed tracks with high traction, a higher tower bar is more effective (flatter upper arms), where low traction or slower speed corners a lower tower bar with more upper angle of the arms is more effective.

I have just tried installing the Atomic IAS front suspension, but am not very pleased with it at the moment. With a standard MR03W upper cover, I have positive camber at the knuckles when I have the arms relatively flat, and need to increase them considerably to get any negative camber at all. This creates a lot of camber gain as the suspension loads, and I think I get about 1mm of uptravel at the kingpin before the suspension bottoms out. I will need to get a tower bar that offers camber adjustment in order to properly set this up.
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