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Old 2013.01.31, 05:13 PM   #16
gctkaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSteve View Post
Grant saw it and configured an awd in a similar manor, his awd is also faster then his mr03.
So that's what happened. Grant was at the last meet and whooped us, I couldn't believe how fast that AWD was.

I also changed the gearing a bit on my AWD and somehow it felt so fast I couldn't control it, but I didn't get to run it long before a hit broke my chassis at the knuckle slider.

Looking forward to seeing what you'll make of the VE board, Steve.
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Old 2013.02.01, 06:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gctkaz View Post
So that's what happened. Grant was at the last meet and whooped us, I couldn't believe how fast that AWD was.

I also changed the gearing a bit on my AWD and somehow it felt so fast I couldn't control it, but I didn't get to run it long before a hit broke my chassis at the knuckle slider.

Looking forward to seeing what you'll make of the VE board, Steve.
Are you guys running on RCP or Carpet? and which Grant are you talking about? the Grant from PN?
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Old 2013.02.16, 12:25 AM   #18
TheSteve
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My MA015 SP orange edition is now converted to brushless. I have only done bench testing for now, I will post a performance update after I do some laps this weekend.

The swap did have a few small issues, all related to the steering. As many people know if you install an MR03 board into an AWD car you get very little steering. This occurs because the feedback potentiometer doesn't move as much in the AWD. This same problem occurs when installing an MR03VE board into an AWD of course. There are two solutions - if you're using a transmitter with a module such as the 901SM you can generally turn the ATV/EPAs up to get enough steering. If you are forced into using something such as a KT18 you can add some resistors to the outer legs of the potentiometer. I tried both options.
Adding the resistors is a terrible solution, while it does work you lose massive steering resolution.
I use a Futaba 4PK for my transmitter, turning up the steering EPA gives me lock to lock steering but has its own problem. Its hard to explain here but due to how the digital packets are generated by the 901SM module the car would lose the radio signal briefly when performing very fast right to left transitions. This is indicated by the red LED on the car flickering. The reason for the problem is the data packets are being generated slightly off of time frame to frame(this relates to how the radio sends the signal to module) Anyway the solution to the problem is to use the mixing built into the radio. I mix channel 1 to channel 3 but invert channel 3. This means whatever channel 1 does(the steering) channel 3 is doing the exact opposite. This will cancel the framing error and you get a 100% solid link with the car. This may not occur with all module based transmitters, it can vary with the frame rate of the transmitter and the number of channels.
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Old 2013.02.16, 03:52 AM   #19
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Hi Steven,

I have encountered the same problem as you, my VE board keep flickering sometime. I am using a 4PK as my radio too. But I know absolutely zero about channel mixing on my radio. Can you show me step by step how to do it

Thanks in advance
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Old 2013.02.17, 02:45 AM   #20
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Joey - I will post programming instructions when I have time.

I did do a couple hundred laps tonight and was very pleased with the results. No question I get more run time. The power delivery is also very smooth. If geared too aggressive I think top performing batteries will be required. I've already gone to a larger spur and smaller pinion then I was running with the Xspeed V AWD motor but still have more speed. Motor starting is much better then I was expecting for a sensorless motor.
Tomorrow I plan to do more laps and will try some of the ICS programming options and fine tune my gearing. I will be shocked if I don't do a faster lap when its all done. For the type of running I like to do I see the brushless adding good value to my AWD car.
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Old 2013.02.17, 05:48 AM   #21
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thanks Steven
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Old 2013.02.19, 12:37 AM   #22
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OK, 4PK programming. There are several menu options in the 4PK, they change depending on if you select level 1, 2 or 3. I use level 2 for all of my models.
There are also several types of mixing but the easiest one I found to use was the one labeled "boat". Select that menu and then the following options:

*TRG-BRK > NORMAL

*TILT MIXING
CH1>3: -100
CH3>1: 0
MODE: ON

That is all you need to do.

This commands channel 3 to do the opposite of whatever channel 1 is doing(Channel 1 is the steering channel). On the mr03ve electronics channel 3 doesn't appear to be used at all(I don't think it supports tikitiki) so using it is no problem.

If you then select the "SERVO" menu you can see bars that indicate the position of the steering, throttle etc. When you move the steering wheel you should see the channel 1 and 3 bar graphs moving in opposite directions.

I've driven quite a bit with this setup and its working flawlessly with the 4PK so I'm sure you'll be 100% when you made the change, no more red light flickering or loss of signal.
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Old 2013.02.19, 09:29 PM   #23
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Thank you very much
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Old 2013.03.04, 03:07 PM   #24
TheSteve
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After many laps with the brushless installed in the AWD car I love it more then ever. The motor is well sealed inside the chassis but doesn't overheat so running battery after battery is possible(did 1800 laps on Saturday) To get the most out of it your batteries need to be good, if they are tired at all you can feel it in the torque of the motor instantly.
Still looking forward to getting a second one, just as soon as Kyosho releases another batch in Japan.
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Old 2013.05.23, 09:27 AM   #25
xtof1974
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hello everyone i'm very interesting by this solution. Is it possible to get a tuto in video or with pictures to make the the same assembly. At present i have a big problem with my 33T PN .my fets Come unsoldered from the board because of overheat .this might be my solution.
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Old 2013.05.25, 01:38 AM   #26
danieluki
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After watching this I think I will wait to Kyosho...
Hope Kyosho incorpore the MR03 digital servo to this chassis... if not would be a great mistake...

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Old 2013.09.02, 11:40 AM   #27
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when you install the VE's board and servo into the ma-10/15 chassis, do you need to do more soldering ?

or you can just open the the mr 03 ve's and the ma 10/15's chassis with he screw driver and move the board along with the servo without any soldering works ?


and how about the motor mounting for the brushless motor in the awd chassis ?
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Old 2013.09.02, 02:00 PM   #28
TheSteve
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Yes, soldering is required. You need to reuse the AWD servo motor and on/off switch. Its also easiest to reuse the pot. The brushless motor mounts just like a regular brushed motor.
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Old 2013.09.03, 01:22 PM   #29
Black RX
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Yes, soldering is required. You need to reuse the AWD servo motor and on/off switch. Its also easiest to reuse the pot. The brushless motor mounts just like a regular brushed motor.
i see

do you use the awd's servo to be connected with the mr-03 board ?

or you move the mr-03 ve servo along to the awd chassis ?
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Old 2013.09.03, 01:25 PM   #30
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The servo motor is completely different so you need to use the original AWD servo and just connect the wires to the VE board. The servo motor wires are connected the same as the VE has them connected. The pot wires however need the outside two wires swapped side to side(there are three wires total)
If they aren't swapped the steering will just go hard over to one side as soon as you power it on or move the wheels.
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