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Old 2005.06.14, 12:10 AM   #1
bda52
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Directions for internal fixing of waterslide decals on lexan

This is the internal fixing instructions listed with Patto's decals from www.pattosplace.com

1. Clean the clear body in warm dishwashing water, as you would wash dishes. Then rinse in cold water. This removes the oil used as a release agent.

2. Obtain a bottle of clear finish as outlined under external fixing. (that is #9 on external: Apply a coat of clear finish over the decal to protect it. This must be a water based acrylic finish. One of the best sources of this is floor wax/finish (Future/Kleer/One-Go/Longe Life Shelf Shining Floor Finish). It is self levelling and easy to apply. This can be done by spraying or brushing the model all over r just brushed over the decal itself. Another good clear coat is Tamiya X-22 Clear Acrylic. If you wish to use turps based finish, brush the water based clear over the decal first, and then, when dry, coat with the turps based finish.

3. Paint some of this clear finish onto the inside of the body, where the decal is to go. Paint just enough to cover an area the size of the decal; Alternatively you can paint this straight onth the decal after it has beed dipped into the water.

4. Using tweezers, dip the decal into plain water for 1-2 seconds.

5. Lay the decal on a tissue paper for 30 seconds.

6. Slide the decal off of the backing paper into position on the model. Make sure the decal is face down.

7. Blot teh back ot the decal lightly with a damp tissue to set it in place and squeegee some of the clear finish out from under the decal.

8. If wou are using a decal setting solution, use it now. Water it down a little to reduce its strength.

9. Allow to dry overnight.

10. Apply a coat of clear finish to the back of the decal, allowing a slight overlap onto the body. Allow to fully dry.

11. You can now paint the body by your normal method, either brushing or spraying. Patto's recommends water based acrylics.

12. If the decal is a large one, extra strength can be given to it by coating the decal sheet with the clear finish before cutting out the decal. This can be done by spraying or brushing or applying with a sponge (recommended). For 1/18 decals this step is essential. Allow to dry overnight at least.
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Old 2005.06.14, 07:23 AM   #2
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Yeah, I asked this guy how to do this and he told me I had to buy a decal set to find out.

This is what I came up with and it works. I used a piece of scrap lexan from one of my bodies. I cleaned the body with alcohol and cut out some test decals. I dipped one in water till the decal loosened. Slide the decal off the paper backing and then slide the finished side over the backing paper. This picks up the glue on the paper. Apply the decal on the inside of the body and let dry. When dry, I used some Tamiya clear acrylic paint to seal the decal. I then sprayed my finish color over the decals. There was no paint beeding or nothing. It came out great.








Quote:
Originally Posted by bda52
This is the internal fixing instructions listed with Patto's decals from www.pattosplace.com

1. Clean the clear body in warm dishwashing water, as you would wash dishes. Then rinse in cold water. This removes the oil used as a release agent.

2. Obtain a bottle of clear finish as outlined under external fixing. (that is #9 on external: Apply a coat of clear finish over the decal to protect it. This must be a water based acrylic finish. One of the best sources of this is floor wax/finish (Future/Kleer/One-Go/Longe Life Shelf Shining Floor Finish). It is self levelling and easy to apply. This can be done by spraying or brushing the model all over r just brushed over the decal itself. Another good clear coat is Tamiya X-22 Clear Acrylic. If you wish to use turps based finish, brush the water based clear over the decal first, and then, when dry, coat with the turps based finish.

3. Paint some of this clear finish onto the inside of the body, where the decal is to go. Paint just enough to cover an area the size of the decal; Alternatively you can paint this straight onth the decal after it has beed dipped into the water.

4. Using tweezers, dip the decal into plain water for 1-2 seconds.

5. Lay the decal on a tissue paper for 30 seconds.

6. Slide the decal off of the backing paper into position on the model. Make sure the decal is face down.

7. Blot teh back ot the decal lightly with a damp tissue to set it in place and squeegee some of the clear finish out from under the decal.

8. If wou are using a decal setting solution, use it now. Water it down a little to reduce its strength.

9. Allow to dry overnight.

10. Apply a coat of clear finish to the back of the decal, allowing a slight overlap onto the body. Allow to fully dry.

11. You can now paint the body by your normal method, either brushing or spraying. Patto's recommends water based acrylics.

12. If the decal is a large one, extra strength can be given to it by coating the decal sheet with the clear finish before cutting out the decal. This can be done by spraying or brushing or applying with a sponge (recommended). For 1/18 decals this step is essential. Allow to dry overnight at least.
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Old 2005.06.14, 04:27 PM   #3
bda52
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Until these directions, I really never thought of using waterslide on the inside of lexan. I had put some on the outside once but they just pulled right off without a clear coat on them.

Cool Gasman, I will try these directions first but sounds much simpler the way you did it.

As far as Patto's decals, the 2004 Ferrari F1 scaled down to 1/28 scale fit perfectly. I cannot believe all the GTP decals he has available. I plan on ordering some this weekend.
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Old 2005.06.14, 09:03 PM   #4
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I would think the Tamiya clear method would work better, assuming it's the TS spray. Only laquers and paints designed to work with PC will stick to PC.

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Old 2005.06.14, 10:08 PM   #5
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I used the Tamiya clear brushed on from the bottle. I airbrused the Tamiya Smoke to tint the windows on my Porsche 917 after I painted it with lexan paint and it is holding up really well. No crack, crazing or chipping.


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I would think the Tamiya clear method would work better, assuming it's the TS spray. Only laquers and paints designed to work with PC will stick to PC.

David
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Old 2005.06.15, 10:58 AM   #6
machine
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I've done this before with magazine pictures on my 1/10 cars, works ok but as soon as the body bend alittle the decals may/will crack along with the clear coat. FOr a more durable finish try to find some Pactra Clear Coat. The paint will flex to some degree. Also avoid putting the decals anywhere on the body that may be damaged while driving ex: bumpers, hood, doors. These areas are the most likely to be hit while racing or driving.
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