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Old 2015.01.22, 02:07 PM   #1
IMACHU2
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Mini-Z Noob

What brushless motors and gearing are you guys running in your MR-02 or MR-03 Mini-Z's? I picked one up used and it needs a motor & matching gearing. (to race at MC3)
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Old 2015.01.22, 02:20 PM   #2
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Was looking at this one, it looks like a good deal

http://www minicarclubofcanada com/S...6263&catid=102

Last edited by mleemor60; 2015.01.22 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 2015.01.22, 07:53 PM   #3
pomme de terre
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That will be a bit too fast, even with a 8T or 9T pinion and AAAs.
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Old 2015.01.22, 11:53 PM   #4
IMACHU2
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That will be a bit too fast, even with a 8T or 9T pinion and AAAs.
Kv = rpm per volt, so roughly how many RPM is enough, without being too much? Obviously this will be a opinion question, just looking for a practical range before I buy a motor. The temptation is to get a higher Kv motor, because they don't seem to cost more then a lower Kv motor, but I don't want to over do it.
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Old 2015.01.23, 07:03 AM   #5
mleemor60
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My recomendation would be to start small and drive your way into it. I have found the Eco tune with a 6T and the board maxed is more than enough to get started with. Nothing slows down or hinders the learning process more than too much power. Start in the basement and climb out. Every time you plateau on lap count for a given timed race then add a tooth to the pinion. When you run out of teeth to add then get the next level motor and go back to the lowest pinion and begin again. You will save a fortune in bits and pieces and above all frustration.

Considering the fact that brushless motors bring little to the table except excessive RPM capabilities, no torque, reduced maintenance and higher cost you would be well served to add an Atomic USA standard motor and an 11/54 pinion and spur and have some fun. Unless of course you find the warming sensation of a second degree burn to be something pleasant.
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Old 2015.01.23, 07:33 AM   #6
Fai
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I am using 9T/53T (64 pitch) on AAA with stock brushless VE motor.
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Old 2015.01.23, 08:02 AM   #7
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The second degree burn thing must be a high Kv issue? The 5000Kv motor in my Atomic AMZ never even gets warm, maybe it is how it is geared?
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Old 2015.01.23, 08:05 AM   #8
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Try an 8/54 or better still a 6/44 a 6/45 would be better yet. Since the brushless motor turns a blue million RPM's it doesn't need to try to pull a low numerical(high speed) ratio. You need a high numerical(less speed) ratio. See how much cooler the motor runs and how much better it comes off the corners. Everybody seems to want their car to reach top speed at the end of the straights where your reward for attaining it is to dump it all so you can get around a corner or traction roll the car into the deep dark recesses beneath somebodies work table. When that happens it raises(to me anyway)serious doubts as to the value of terminal velocity.
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Old 2015.01.23, 08:21 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by IMACHU2 View Post
The second degree burn thing must be a high Kv issue? The 5000Kv motor in my Atomic AMZ never even gets warm, maybe it is how it is geared?
The old rule of thumb has always been that if you can touch the motor to your bottom lip and hold it there for a few seconds that the motor was operating at near peak performance. If you can hold it there indefinetly then you can add pinion. If it instantly raises a blister(second degree burn) then you need to go smaller on the pinion. if you are overly protective of the outer epidural layers of skin on your lip invest in a small pyrometer to check the temp after you establish a lip test baseline. You will find the little tool valuable for things like monitoring track temperatures to optimize handling characteristics. It is interesting to graph how humidity and temperature change traction through the course of an event. A track layed out over bare concrete will perform completely different from the same track laid down over carpeted or even just sealed concrete.
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Old 2015.01.23, 09:25 AM   #10
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Thanks for the imput, guys. Sounds like less is more, Fai is always on the of the leader board. Cool mleemor60, I actually already have pyrometer for my 1/1 scale toy cars.
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Old 2015.01.23, 12:09 PM   #11
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A small weather station in your toolbox will give you a ton of information. Idealy you want a room/track temperature in the 70-75 degree mark with relative humidity in the 50 to 65% percent range. Lower temperatures with low humidity starts static issues with the cars and loose conditions on the track. Conversely, temperatures above 75* and a similar humidity percentage will produce the same conditions without the static but you will feel like you are driving in mud instead of sand if you know what I mean. Maybe packed dry snow as opposed to conditions approaching black ice. In the old days when it got warm and humid we would switch to the Reflex grooved rears to get some side bite back. Now we just groove a pair of K20's for the same result. Keep a small can of "static guard" in your tool box. When the air gets dry spray some on a cloth and wipe the bottom of the car down before the race.
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Old 2015.01.23, 03:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMACHU2 View Post
The second degree burn thing must be a high Kv issue? The 5000Kv motor in my Atomic AMZ never even gets warm, maybe it is how it is geared?
Oop's. I didn't catch that it was an AMZ so just put the smallest pinion and the biggest spur on it and see how it goes. i think that the formula for figuring AWD final drive is spur divided by pinion times 5.44 or something like that. There is a gear chart somewhere on the Kenon site.
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Old 2015.01.23, 03:34 PM   #13
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Oh Sorry, I have a AMZ, but I was talkin' 2wd Mini-Z :-)
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Old 2015.01.23, 06:37 PM   #14
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OK then. Back to my original comments.
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Old 2015.01.24, 10:26 PM   #15
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That motor is too hot for you. I would suggest the pn 9500 as a max. Most of us are using that. The green one would probably be the best for you.
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