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Old 2005.09.23, 04:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNB
The stock RC18T has some stearing slop, but the servo itself should center. Instead of adjusting the transmitter so much, center both the steering and subtrim on the transmitter and adjust the servo horn on the servo itself. Try to use the transmitter adjustments for fine tuning only. The same thing goes for Kyosho Mini-Zs--there is an adjustment for the RCs themselves.
How do you center the servo on the mini z? I'll search for a tut when I'm out of the office, but if you know one off hand, that'd be great.

Thanks.
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Old 2005.09.23, 05:30 PM   #17
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The 18th scales are very neat.
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Old 2005.09.23, 06:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolter9
How do you center the servo on the mini z? I'll search for a tut when I'm out of the office, but if you know one off hand, that'd be great.

Thanks.
Visit the following link and scroll down to "Tuning Steering POT". Although the tech instructions are for an MR-01 and show the MR-01 being taken apart, there is no reason to since the sticker can simply be pulled back and the steering pot adjusted with a small flat head screwdriver. It is the same procedure with the MR-02. The Overland and Monster adjustment is underneath the front shock stay and has no sticker covering the hole. The F1 has the hole exposing the adjustment underneath the underbody chassis. Just be very careful with the screwdriver and the adjustment is very sensitive so make sure the increments are very small.

http://www.minizcanada.com/tech/radio.php#steeringpot
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Old 2005.09.23, 08:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mini-z racing
The 18th scales are very neat.
Yep. I set up an X-Ray M18 with a center mount motor, saddle pack and synthesized radio. It's a blast but not very indoor friendly. Haven't raced it yet, just bashing around out side and my RCPs are packed up for now.
http://yourmicro.com/forums/attachme...&postid=166513
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Old 2005.09.24, 02:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNB
Visit the following link and scroll down to "Tuning Steering POT". Although the tech instructions are for an MR-01 and show the MR-01 being taken apart, there is no reason to since the sticker can simply be pulled back and the steering pot adjusted with a small flat head screwdriver. It is the same procedure with the MR-02. The Overland and Monster adjustment is underneath the front shock stay and has no sticker covering the hole. The F1 has the hole exposing the adjustment underneath the underbody chassis. Just be very careful with the screwdriver and the adjustment is very sensitive so make sure the increments are very small.

http://www.minizcanada.com/tech/radio.php#steeringpot

Thanks for the link- I've been there, but haven't read the tutorial in depth.

I did pick, up an RC18MT tonight - haven't really run it since the batt is pretty drained, but got a couple minutes out of it. Looks like it's going to be a sweet truck! Sadly the beetle body was out of stock, so I settled for a crowd pleaser 2 (don't like the stock MT body).

Anyway, tomorrow will be the fun when both my batts are charged...I can already see myself wanting some bling for this thing
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Old 2005.09.24, 02:54 AM   #21
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Micro class lovers

Quote:
Originally Posted by mini-z racing
The 18th scales are very neat.
I have to agree. I have a big 18th scale collection and my focus on "Micro class" and racing 8th scale buggies & truggies every weekend leaves my Mini-Zs collecting dust.
Zs are great in the correct environment, however 18th scales are great for outdoor use.
I have two RC18Ts, 3 Micro RS4s, an M18, a MiniZilla and a TTR ZK-2, all are 18th scale. Some are brushless Micros and some of my collection have the best tuned 300 size motors available like the URC Krystal-3 and the Pro-RK370
That's what makes Micro class so great: Hop ups that actually do make a difference and a real choice of electronics and batteries.

Admitedly I believe Kyosho's decision to release a "16th scale" was pretty lame when the industry standard is 18th scale.
I've been reluctant to buy anything Kyosho in the UK due to a paradigm shift in the distribution process. All European Kyosho products are now distributed exclusively thru Kyosho Europe in France. This causes a logistical nightmare when it comes to spares, nothing is warehoused in the UK any more.

Fortunaly other brands have entered the small buggy market so this lowers the price and guarantees us European Micro fans a better choice. LRP have released the "Shark" and Duratrax call it the "Vendetta" and Fastrax call it the Blaze Same thing, but at a realstic price.

Micro class is growing with many manufacturers entering the class with exciting new products, where Mini class has a very limited choice regarding manufacturers.
In essence Mini-Zs, X-Mods and IWavers are toys compared to brand name Micro products.
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Old 2005.09.25, 11:29 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Admitedly I believe Kyosho's decision to release a "16th scale" was pretty lame when the industry standard is 18th scale.
When you actually see how small an 1/18th scale buggy really is, you may have second thoughts, especially if you want to use replacement tires. Check out an A-Tech 1/18th scale buggy sometime. As far as so-called "industry standards" being 1/18th scale, have you ever seen a Duratrax Mini-Quake? What about a CEN Mini-Madness? They may be called 1/18th scales, but they are larger than the RC18T. It also wouldn't surprise me if the HPI Mini-LST is larger than the RC18T though it was HPI who brought out the 1/18th scale MRS4 long ago and long before the Losi Mini-T. Of course, it was also HPI who released the 1/8th scale Savage when others were running 1/10th scales. HPI is also releasing a 1/5th scale buggy while other companies released 1/6th scale buggies. To me, HPI's stepping-up or increasing scale size is no different from what Kyosho did and no body has to purchase any of them if they don't want one. The market will also probably dictate which models survive.
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Old 2005.09.25, 07:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo
That's what makes Micro class so great: Hop ups that actually do make a difference...
Are you suggesting that hop ups for mini Z don't make a performance difference?- what've you been smokin'?

Back on topic- ran my RC18T on the 1/10 offroad track yesterday- Wow! impressive! that little truck can handle the big jumps pretty well. I managed to not break anything, although I did lose a a rear shock spring cup- something to stock up on I guess....and I got ran over by my friend's 1/8 nitro truck

As expected, the 18T runs great on my M11 with Mini Z module...but I'm probably going to try the spectrum setup eventually, just because I can.

Anyway, between that and a solid Mini Z race last night, I've had a pretty good RC weekend!
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Old 2005.09.25, 08:15 PM   #24
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oh yeah, and I also blew the spare 6cell that I purchased for the 18T. It had just finished charging on my super brain 959 (at 1 amp) when one of the cells exploded- Never seen that happen before (when charged properly)
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Old 2005.09.26, 07:22 AM   #25
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Wtf?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bolter9
Are you suggesting that hop ups for mini Z don't make a performance difference?- what've you been smokin'?
Right, I said hop ups that actually can make a difference. Read into the meaning of my reply and not just the words! I do own Zs and have done for over 5 years!
The Z hopups do make a difference, however these are not as significantly noticable as those we add to the Micro scales.
Any back on topic, if you want to make an issue about Z hopups, do it in another Thread.
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Old 2005.09.26, 11:01 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo
Right, I said hop ups that actually can make a difference. Read into the meaning of my reply and not just the words! I do own Zs and have done for over 5 years!
The Z hopups do make a difference, however these are not as significantly noticable as those we add to the Micro scales.
Any back on topic, if you want to make an issue about Z hopups, do it in another Thread.
Easy there killer...just wasn't clear on what you were saying- thanks for clarifying.

What's your guys' opinion on alloy parts for this truck? there's always the school of thought that says alloy weakens non-alloy parts...but how necessary is alloy for off road stuff like the 18T? ...I'm debating the team alloy upgrade.
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Old 2005.09.26, 11:07 AM   #27
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I know for dirt oval ive seen alot of guys use alot of alloy parts because since there going very fast they need some weight on the car, If you do replace a part with alloy sometimes it will weaken the plastic parts.
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Old 2005.09.26, 12:29 PM   #28
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I know for dirt oval ive seen alot of guys use alot of alloy parts because since there going very fast they need some weight on the car, If you do replace a part with alloy sometimes it will weaken the plastic parts.
Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. I have heard that if you put in a faster motor (mamba, etc) you need to upgrade certain parts as well.
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Old 2005.09.27, 07:24 AM   #29
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RC18T's, brushless systems and alloy upgrades

Quote:
Originally Posted by bolter9
Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. I have heard that if you put in a faster motor (mamba, etc) you need to upgrade certain parts as well.
The RC18T will melt the outdrives and diff with a Mamba unless you put some serious cash into it and upgrade to stainless steel or steel outdrives and MIP CVDs. The diffs also require frequent shimming to prevent them slipping as the diff drive gears wear down with frequent use.
The entire thing can get crazy like this liitle RC18T "Road Runner" project of mine. I don't even want to place a Dollar value on that, but it is fun and it's a handful, even with a 5400 motor.
Fortunately I also own a 300 powered RC18T that is dedicated for off road use, only has outdrive upgrades, FT Threaded shocks and MIP CVDs. The plastic parts hold up nicely to the abuse!
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Old 2005.09.27, 10:22 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondo
The RC18T will melt the outdrives and diff with a Mamba unless you put some serious cash into it and upgrade to stainless steel or steel outdrives and MIP CVDs. The diffs also require frequent shimming to prevent them slipping as the diff drive gears wear down with frequent use.
The entire thing can get crazy like this liitle RC18T "Road Runner" project of mine. I don't even want to place a Dollar value on that, but it is fun and it's a handful, even with a 5400 motor.
Fortunately I also own a 300 powered RC18T that is dedicated for off road use, only has outdrive upgrades, FT Threaded shocks and MIP CVDs. The plastic parts hold up nicely to the abuse!
Yeah I hear the mamba is pretty wicked!

Hopefully I won't have to tweak the shim anytime soon, as the new models come with shimmed diffs (and outboard sleaves)...I think I'm just going to run it stock for a while and learn about the quirks and then start upgrading.
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