Personally I find that at 102mm the car is easier to drive. Very stable. I can hustle the car and never feel like I am chasing it. Also. With the LM style bodies you can actually race with someone with a greatly reduced risk of crashing due to the flat sided bodies. Rail interference(snagging) is reduced. Overall they are just plain fun to drive. But then I am 64 years old and my skills are greatly diminished.
What body are you using? The worst of the lot is the Mazda 787B that can snag the wing on the top of the rail. Other than that I have never stuck one under a rail that was properly attached.
On my Mazda the kyosho bumper can be cought under the rail sometimes.
On the C9 I currently use, no problem as I don't use a bumper. The front of the body is much stronger than other LM bodies due to the fact that the lights are molded in the body and not added as on the Mazda and Porsche.
The LM car are very planted and it make it easy to drive althought not as agile as shorter cars.
Sometimes at 102mm, I have problems getting the power down. I added a little weight to the back of the chassis (not mount), and it helped a lot. I prefer the Sauber at 102mm.
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EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
Most well full service hobby shops stock sheet stytene in .016 up to .060 thickness. If you set your body on the sheet and trace around the nose for an exact outline of the body then cut it off and adhere it to the bottom of the nose you will have a bumper that doesn't protrude and adds a great deal of strength to the noses of all the LM bodies whether they have headlight buckets or not. Once this is done the resulting pocket in the nose can be filled with a foaming Eurothane glue. Once it cures and is clearance ground you have a body that you can knock down buildings with.
lol... great tip mleemor60... huh? 64? did i read that right? don't recall any other sexagenarian members out there... thanks again for that great tip...
I'm pretty new to the scale but have been in the hobby since 1982. Anymore though I can be classified as an ambedexterous(sp) monoplegic. Basically I can't do anything with either hand.
Most well full service hobby shops stock sheet stytene in .016 up to .060 thickness. If you set your body on the sheet and trace around the nose for an exact outline of the body then cut it off and adhere it to the bottom of the nose you will have a bumper that doesn't protrude and adds a great deal of strength to the noses of all the LM bodies whether they have headlight buckets or not. Once this is done the resulting pocket in the nose can be filled with a foaming Eurothane glue. Once it cures and is clearance ground you have a body that you can knock down buildings with.
I personnally use old cards to make an internal version of this. Everyone has old bank card, fidelity cards etc... You cut it in the same shape as the inside of the body and then glue it inside. To make a stronger one, try to glue it flat on the body holder.
I run all my bodies with such a reinforcement and it works great to keep your body alive longer. The ideal is when the body as a kind of flat hole where you can put the card. (The 2005 NSX and 2005 350Z have such a particularity)
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