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Old 2002.04.04, 09:37 PM   #1
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repairing stripped screw holes

i stripped a couple screw holes on my chassis (stock) and i was too lazy to buy a new one.... so i found out that if u put the screw all the way inside but leaving the head popped out (head of the screw shouldn't touch the plastic) then take a hot soldering iron and touch the screw.... be patient while the screw warms up, it takes a while.... once u smell a hint of plastic, immediatly remove the iron and blow on the screw to cool it... then use a screwdriver and twist the screw in then unscrew it.... there u go, a quick fix.... but beware!!! if you're not a patient person, then u better omit this tip....
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Old 2002.04.04, 10:35 PM   #2
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Does it work? Ive been tempted to do this on my servo case... been stripped since day one.. but I was gona just melt the blasted hole.. the glue I put inside it to give the screw someting to grab isnt holding much any more... hehe.

I will have to try to use my iron on just the screw... instead of the plastic itself (wich is VERY messy on other things). But my iron is so coated with solder I will probly make a mess
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Old 2002.04.05, 07:53 AM   #3
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yes i have tried it on my car and the screw hole is still working like new. U gotta heat it enough to melt a little bit inside so the plastic will melt around the screw threads... a little too much heat and the entire thing will melt leaving a really ugly hole (my canned heats looked like this) so patience is the key, and don't apply pressure to the screw.... just put enough pressure to heat it....
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Old 2002.04.29, 10:02 PM   #4
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TWO THUMBS UP FOR YOU MAN! (wedginator).. tried it on my 1/10 RC car and it did work greeaattt! works on my mini-z too!
thanks for the tip!
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Old 2002.04.29, 10:25 PM   #5
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congrats!!.... patients is key
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Old 2002.04.29, 11:53 PM   #6
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actually, haven't tried this but...
based on wedginator's suggestion,
the soldering iron melts the plastic a bit to fix the stripped
holes....does this mean that if you put in a little plastic
model cement into the hole, insert the screw,
let it dry, then unscrew, will/might achieve similar results?
just a thought...since plastic model cement
basically dissolves or melts plastic too right? only that
it does so with some chemical reaction instead of heat...
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Old 2002.04.30, 01:11 AM   #7
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it's a differnet story man, using a soldering iron, you can control how much heat to apply until you get to the desired temp and outcome of you work, while letting your job done by chemical reaction (in your case a plastic cement) the dissolved plastic will become brittle, as far i understand it, they construct most of plastic parts or toys maybe, by exposing them to the rigth temp and pressing them between molds, some do it by grinding plastics to shape but before it became a plastic slab it was subjected to heat..
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Old 2002.04.30, 01:36 AM   #8
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I have already done the model cement idea, many times, super glue is a mess, super gell glue is just as bad of a mess, model glue dont stick to any of theMini-z components for more then 2 minutes after it dries... although the model glue will hold it in the hole if u remove it it will remove most of the dried glue with it...
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Old 2002.04.30, 12:32 PM   #9
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pretty smart, wedge

now where to replace stripped screws
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Old 2002.04.30, 09:01 PM   #10
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Seems tricky to me but I haven't tried it.

Don't give up on the CA, try this......

Use a drop of CA gel on the tip of a toothpick. Place the gel covered toothpick tip into the hole and rotate it making sure that the tip contacts the inside walls of the hole. Either let it dry completely or ZAP it with accelerator.

I've done it many times and when done correctly, the screw threads cut into the CA and hold like it was new. But the CA has got to be dry. BTW, fast cure epoxy will also work, it's just more messy
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Old 2002.05.01, 10:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Use a drop of CA gel on the tip of a toothpick. Place the gel covered toothpick tip into the hole and rotate it making sure that the tip contacts the inside walls of the hole. Either let it dry completely or ZAP it with accelerator.
This is my preferred method of repairing stripped plastic threads, too. I've been doing it for years, and it seems a lot less risky than the plastic melting method.
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Old 2002.05.02, 02:30 PM   #12
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Thread repair

DAMZer,

I use that system myself, but, I mix the CA glue with a little sodium bicarbonate powder.
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Old 2002.05.02, 05:59 PM   #13
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Mondo,

Are you talking about "Baking Soda"?
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Old 2002.05.04, 05:42 AM   #14
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Soda

DAMZer,

Spot on! Yea, Sodium Bocarbonate is baking soda.
When mixed with CA glue, it gets pretty warm and forms like a callous build-up, ideal for repairing stripped screw threads on both carbon and plastic parts.
A trick I learned from my 1/10 racing era...
It's also excellent for adding strength to any part bonded with CA glue.
Apply CA glue generously, then sprinkle the baking soda on the join, works like a charm
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Old 2002.05.04, 07:25 AM   #15
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Definately risky I only did it for a split second, now I cant get my cover off my servo, hehehe... the screw kinda burried itself in the plastic.
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