Mini-Z, Kyosho Mini-Z Racer, MR-03, MR-02, MA-010, Forums, News, Pictures, Parts, and Shop - Mini-ZRacer.com
Forums, Mini-Z, MiniZ, Kyosho Mini-Z, Kyosho MiniZ, Kyosho Mini-Z Racer
Mini-Z Hop-Ups, Mini-Z Parts, MiniZ Hop-Ups, MiniZ Parts, Kyosho Mini-Z Hop-Ups, Kyosho Mini-Z Parts, Kyosho MiniZ Hop-Ups, Kyosho MiniZ Parts, Kyosho Mini-Z Racer Hop-Ups, Racer Kyosho Mini-Z Parts

Go Back   Mini-ZRacer.com Forums > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 2019.01.14, 04:22 AM   #1
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
Need help deciding what to race in what class.

I currently have an MR03 sport with the KT19 transmitter set up as an LM car with my Mazda 787B body, a PN racing 70t motor, Kyosho R246-1222 Roll Damper / Oil Shock, Atomic AR240 motor pod, and the Kyosho MZW308 Ball diff.

I also have an MR03 Sport 2 with the KT-531P Transmitter that is all stock, except for the Kyosho hopped up motor.

I'd like to get some advice as to what I should do. I'm wanting a total of at least 3 cars, possibly 4.

What In thinking is to make my Audi fit into the 70 turn super stock class at the local track. I can just take the motor out my LM and put it in and be good to go from there with starting to hop up the car within the rules.

My LM car I was thinking of swapping it over to another chassis, and using the one it's on now for a stock class car. I would also probably make the stock car also fit into the classic GT class with a Jota or 935 body (I found an unused 935 with minor damage from moving locally) I might not however, just so I can take advantage of the spring changes, at that point would probably just buy a Jota readyset.

As for my LM car, I was thinking of getting an MR02 and using the PN racing DSM2 circuit board. Is that possible? If it works, I can use a lower turn motor, as well as upgrade the AM Mr02 to a 2.4ghz system. I would also.see about changing the pod out to a PN racing one with one of their diffs with a higher pitch spur gear that has more teeth.


Is this a solid plan for setting up my cars to be able to race? I dont get much time to go but when I do I want to be racing instead of sitting for most of them. The stock car may be driven by my wife and I wont always race the LM, my main focus would be the classic gt and the 70t super stock.

another thought is if I go for 4 cars, I would put the Audi on the KT19 car for stock class, get the Jota or 935 for the Classic, still do the LM on the Mr02 with the PN board, but for the 70t class I would go with the DB9 and do the 96mm conversion stuff. it's just a thought. This is mostly because the wife likes the Audi body and if it was a 70t class car, that means I'm running stock and classic.

really though before I decide on the rest of the class, I'm trying to decide how to make the LM car faster. I'm hoping the board works with the mr02 and that it would make for a good car, without being super expensive, or being ridiculously more than just buying a brushless chassis.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190114_045905.jpg (323.1 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by Ka0sgh0st; 2019.01.14 at 05:36 AM.
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 08:57 AM   #2
cowboysir
epic procrastinator
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,198
Some thoughts on your post:

Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.

The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)

PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.

One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.
__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?

my custom body album...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/album.php?albumid=192
cowboysir is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 10:18 AM   #3
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboysir View Post
Some thoughts on your post:

Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.

The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)

PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.

One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.
I'm leaning towards the Audi for the 70t, and filling stock and the classic GT classes with a Jota.

I've also thought about the DasMikro brushless conversion on the Lm car as I have it now, as it's a sport 1 model. I think I would just need the board, motor, and transmitter, which I would need anyways for the LM car. the other track near me just has stock and mod mini z class, and from what I'm told most people run the 98mm McLaren body with a 9500kv motor. If I did that, I could run it at both tracks, as well as stock at both tracks

Im thinking that a fet mod would be cheapest option for the LM car. if I go with the 8858CZ fet, I should be able to run any brushed motor. Also would do the 70t super stock car as well

Last edited by Ka0sgh0st; 2019.01.14 at 12:30 PM.
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 03:45 PM   #4
cowboysir
epic procrastinator
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,198
So if I'm reading this correctly you dont have a DSM2 Tx at the moment anyways?

If thats the case Id lean away from DSM2 as a concept as its signal rate isnt as good as the VE-MHS boards and at this point nothing compares to the Evo boards. One of those options with an upgraded transmitter and a high KV motor would make a great start to a mod based chassis.

I don't have any experience with the DasMicro units so hopefully someone else can chime in....

The 12C is quite likely the lightest plastic body in the Kyosho range.
__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?

my custom body album...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/album.php?albumid=192
cowboysir is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 05:26 PM   #5
SuperFly
bitPimp
 
SuperFly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 513
Just made a car from scratch with a PN chassis and a Das Mikro brushless board. So far so good, no difference from my Kyosho VE Pro as far as I can tell. I'm running a PN 9500kv motor under a 98mm Mosler.

FWIW, the Das Mikro brushed board is a decent $40 upgrade for a Sport if you already have an ASF controller, if you don't want to get into brushless. The FETS are good and will handle a 43T or so motor just fine. If you haven't driven a brushless car yet, I'd see if you can test one first, it's a different driving style.

I have two formerly-AM-crystal MR02s with Das Mikro ASF boards in them, they are both very competitive, especially the 90mm Porsche 911 GT1.

Happy to answer any questions or take pictures.
__________________

mini-z gallery

Last edited by SuperFly; 2019.01.14 at 05:44 PM.
SuperFly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 06:15 PM   #6
EMU
EMUracing
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,381
Send a message via AIM to EMU
The fets that come on the Das Mikro board are just shy of the 8858, HUGE step up from ASF. The 8858 are more or less equivalent to the fet used in the RWD and VE pro boards. There is a lot of power capability, and I would think that you can run any motor in the DasMikro boards.

I have run just about any motor on stock ASF boards as well. I only burned one car with a hot Anima II at a regional race with 100f ambient temps... and one other running lipo where the resistance in the power switch burned the wires. Running mod motors on stock ASF will degrade the fets a little (shouldnt really use a 70t in them after), but they can handle quite a bit of power. A single layer of 8858, DasMikro, or RWD fets are roughly equivalent to running 3x stack of 3010 ASF fets.
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
EMU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.14, 06:31 PM   #7
TPDazzle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 121
I have 2 dasMikro asf brushed boards and they both work well. They both have quite a bit of servo noise, but it doesnt seem to impact how they drive. You also have to have spare servo motors and switches to solder into place from old boards. Ive had luck with the big auction_bay site for finding the real deal kyosho brushed and MHS brushless boards for 60 to 70 with discount coupons (no soldering or extra parts required). Of course then you are mostly stuck buying a Ex-6 radio to run everything. I am, however, a big fan of the radio and not bringing 4 different radios anymore.
TPDazzle is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.15, 12:13 AM   #8
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
I think I'm just going Fet mod the LM car to run a lower turn motor. since I have 2 MR03s and will be picking up a third later this week hopefully. I bought 20 8858 fets for $7 shipped (10 was $5 shipped) I'll just need a new tip for my soldering iron. but I think I can manage to get it done. There's also a guy locally who has done it a few times, sonI might just pay him to do it.

I think that would be the cheapest way to make the LM faster. With the 8858s, can I triple stack those? It would probably be way overkill but I'd want at least to run 2.

I'll also Fet mod the Audi for the 70 turn super stock class, just for the durability. should make it faster too. Inwas thinking 2 would be plenty and not hurt it. I could also drop the turns down for the open class at the other hobby shop.

For the third car, I'll get the Jota for stock and Classic GT. I'll make sure whatever car I get, it will have the best stock chassis. which will probably br the Audi's sport 2 chassis.

then from there I can look at spending the money on a new transmitter. I do see the benefits of having them all on one transmitter, but I want them separate so I can race at home against my wife, or if a buddy comes over.

eventually down the road I'll get a 4th car and split the stock and GT classes, but to be as cheap as possible, I think this would be the easiest way.


could someone point me in the right direction for part numbers on what I would need to increase the tooth count on my spur, and go to a higher pitch gear?
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.15, 08:49 AM   #9
cowboysir
epic procrastinator
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,198
64 pitch gearing is not just about increasing tooth count. It is also about finding that in between gear ratio that isnt available from the limits of 48 pitch.

1. Dont just fire big gears on and call it good.
2. It is extremely difficult to use 64 pitch ratios to their optimum on plastic kyosho mounts. You need the adjustment of motor mounts that allow for screw mount motors so you can get that perfect mesh on your chosen ratio.
__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?

my custom body album...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/album.php?albumid=192
cowboysir is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.15, 11:01 AM   #10
SuperFly
bitPimp
 
SuperFly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 513
Not to get into your business too much, but I'd really think twice about which radio format you want to invest in. While ASF is old now, it is dependable and there are a good range of decent controllers available. MHS/ASF gives a path to the future.

IMO, a stock Das Micro board, either brushed or brushless, is going to be a better board than a Sport with a FET job. I just find the electronics in the Sport to be noticeably inferior. They seem to have fewer steps of resolution, and the motor handling capacity is weak. I kind of think the days of massive FET stacks are over; the stock FETs are so much better (on boards other than Sport), and ASF boards come with a 2x2 configuration from the start. I have a Das Micro ASF board that I added an extra FET layer on the bottom of the board, for essentially a triple-stack; 2 on the bottom, one on top. This board works extremely well, and will handle any motor I throw at it. I'm currently using an old PN Speedy05.

Not sure how much you've driven with upgraded or stacked FETs, but they don't really change the way the car operates other than being able to handle a lower turn motor. There's maybe a bit of a feeling of more responsive throttle, but it's minor. On the other hand, I've had older cars with triple-stacked FETs that introduced other problems, notably twitchy steering. One possible cause I've read is that the FETs dump so much power to the motor, the steering servo is momentarily starved under full acceleration.

Again, don't want to give more advice than is wanted, but unless you're a world-class driver, the stock FETs on a Das Mikro board will handle motors in the 39T-50T range, which is very fast for almost anyone. I would put more consideration into which radio format and transmitters you want to commit to, rather than worrying too much about ultimate speed.
__________________

mini-z gallery
SuperFly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.15, 01:56 PM   #11
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboysir View Post
64 pitch gearing is not just about increasing tooth count. It is also about finding that in between gear ratio that isnt available from the limits of 48 pitch.

1. Dont just fire big gears on and call it good.
2. It is extremely difficult to use 64 pitch ratios to their optimum on plastic kyosho mounts. You need the adjustment of motor mounts that allow for screw mount motors so you can get that perfect mesh on your chosen ratio.
good thing I went for the atomic mount then. the reason I'd wantvto go for the 64 pitch with a higher tooth spur is for the in between ratios. I've been looking at a gear ratio chart, and the 44t I have now seems very limited. and just stepping the pinion up one, or dropping it one is a huge jump compared to a sput with.ore teeth.





Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly View Post
Not to get into your business too much, but I'd really think twice about which radio format you want to invest in. While ASF is old now, it is dependable and there are a good range of decent controllers available. MHS/ASF gives a path to the future.

IMO, a stock Das Micro board, either brushed or brushless, is going to be a better board than a Sport with a FET job. I just find the electronics in the Sport to be noticeably inferior. They seem to have fewer steps of resolution, and the motor handling capacity is weak. I kind of think the days of massive FET stacks are over; the stock FETs are so much better (on boards other than Sport), and ASF boards come with a 2x2 configuration from the start. I have a Das Micro ASF board that I added an extra FET layer on the bottom of the board, for essentially a triple-stack; 2 on the bottom, one on top. This board works extremely well, and will handle any motor I throw at it. I'm currently using an old PN Speedy05.

Not sure how much you've driven with upgraded or stacked FETs, but they don't really change the way the car operates other than being able to handle a lower turn motor. There's maybe a bit of a feeling of more responsive throttle, but it's minor. On the other hand, I've had older cars with triple-stacked FETs that introduced other problems, notably twitchy steering. One possible cause I've read is that the FETs dump so much power to the motor, the steering servo is momentarily starved under full acceleration.

Again, don't want to give more advice than is wanted, but unless you're a world-class driver, the stock FETs on a Das Mikro board will handle motors in the 39T-50T range, which is very fast for almost anyone. I would put more consideration into which radio format and transmitters you want to commit to, rather than worrying too much about ultimate speed.
I'm only looking at stacking the fets because they are cheap. I bought 20 of the 8858cz (iirc the number correctly) gets for $7. put in a little effort and I can run the lower turn motors.

a new transmitter and board and all that would probably be the best. and I plan to do that, but for now I'm trying to get the car going somewhat competitively as cheap as possible. If I actually do a decent race against the other racers I would upgrade. I want to see if I'm competitive enough first. the kne open class im.gonna run the LM is 9500kv brushless motors, on a big track. The other track is much smaller though. I was thinking a small selection of motors, a 50t and a mid to high 30s turn motor would work, having 2 days to swap the motor over.
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.15, 07:34 PM   #12
EMU
EMUracing
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,381
Send a message via AIM to EMU
Having run just about every brushed motor on stock ASF boards, and the fact that the DasMikro boards have the same count of fets but the fets are almost 3x lower resistance and current capability rated, I would confidently say that you can run any production released 130 motor on them.

In the earlier days, with the 4562 FET, the gate voltage was pretty high, which gave the throttle an on/off switch feeling. While it was fine for stock classes, modified motors which needed more current capabilities became a handful. Once the 8858 fet came around, the throttle resolution returned to the mod class. The current fets in the market, in RWD/VE and DasMikro are very similar to the 8858. I would assume that the evo uses the same fet as the VE/RWD, but haven't confirmed.

I purposefully did not upgrade the fets on my modified cars in the earlier ASF days because I wanted that throttle resolution that the fets at the time did not have.

My personal opinion, don't use a 9500kv motor. 5500kv or 7500kv are plenty quick, and will have more grunt out of the corner. I think I would be faster with a 5500kv or 7500kv than I would with a 9500kv on anything but an oval Daytona or Talladega sized.
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
EMU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.16, 01:41 AM   #13
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU View Post
Having run just about every brushed motor on stock ASF boards, and the fact that the DasMikro boards have the same count of fets but the fets are almost 3x lower resistance and current capability rated, I would confidently say that you can run any production released 130 motor on them.

In the earlier days, with the 4562 FET, the gate voltage was pretty high, which gave the throttle an on/off switch feeling. While it was fine for stock classes, modified motors which needed more current capabilities became a handful. Once the 8858 fet came around, the throttle resolution returned to the mod class. The current fets in the market, in RWD/VE and DasMikro are very similar to the 8858. I would assume that the evo uses the same fet as the VE/RWD, but haven't confirmed.

I purposefully did not upgrade the fets on my modified cars in the earlier ASF days because I wanted that throttle resolution that the fets at the time did not have.

My personal opinion, don't use a 9500kv motor. 5500kv or 7500kv are plenty quick, and will have more grunt out of the corner. I think I would be faster with a 5500kv or 7500kv than I would with a 9500kv on anything but an oval Daytona or Talladega sized.
going to any other radio system though is going to be expensive though. The cars I have now have a transmitter that works for then, even though they aren't the best. For now I'm going to replace and stack the fets with the 8858s that I bought. from there the cars should be sufficient enough to keep up with the Jones and it would come down to my driving skills. If I do well enough (which is yet to be determined how well is well) I'll upgrade the transmitter, the radio systems if need be to run a good radio.


I was gonna go with a 50 turn, and a 39 turn motor for the LM with the triple stacked fets, and see how it runs.

theres a lot of other parts I could upgrade to make the car handle better and to start out I think the the difference between a board and the fets should go to those parts. I already have a rolling damper, and an upgraded t plate, and good tires for the car. havent touched the front suspension yet, and that needs some work too on the LM car anyways (just got the parts to make the car whole again yesterday, haven't installed them yet. was missing the e clip and the spacers on one side, was just flopping around)

$7 plus elbow grease is a lot cheaper than starting out with a new board and transmitter
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.16, 04:57 AM   #14
EMU
EMUracing
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,381
Send a message via AIM to EMU
I wouldn't do more than a dual stack of the 8858. The fets should handle any motor toy can throw at it, but not sure whether the rest of the board can...

I would consider replacing the fets and seeing how it does with the motor. I'd the magic smoke let's out, then replace the board with a RWD board that sells for around $30 at a few locations. Besides the fets, it has much better resolution in steering and throttle than the old sports does.

Down the road you can get an evo, with the FHSS rx and a kt-432pt radio and drive all cars with this radio.
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
EMU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2019.01.16, 11:26 AM   #15
Ka0sgh0st
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU View Post
I wouldn't do more than a dual stack of the 8858. The fets should handle any motor toy can throw at it, but not sure whether the rest of the board can...

I would consider replacing the fets and seeing how it does with the motor. I'd the magic smoke let's out, then replace the board with a RWD board that sells for around $30 at a few locations. Besides the fets, it has much better resolution in steering and throttle than the old sports does.

Down the road you can get an evo, with the FHSS rx and a kt-432pt radio and drive all cars with this radio.
thinking about it now, since I have a sport and a sport 2 (the sport having came with the KT19, and the sport 2 having the KT531p) is there a difference in the boards, besides fets? If the sport 2 board is better, I should swap the LM to the sport 2 when I do the fet mod, while the sport stays with the 70t motor already on it. Just to give it a fighting chance.

I guess at the same time, if i leave the sport for the low turn motor, and the board goes I would be upgrading the worse of the 2 cars especially since the kt531 is a better transmitter than the KT19.

little bit of a conundrum there with a decision to be made once the fets are installed and motor going in.

I will be getting another car here soon, for the stock/classic GT class. I guess that will also influence the decision made, but I'm not sure how, just makes the decision more complicated
Ka0sgh0st is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ice Melter Mini-Z Race Feb. 2013 (Wyoming) briankstan Events 35 2013.02.19 12:03 PM
Carolina Cup 2012 Race 3 kwsmith29 Carolina Cup 63 2012.10.10 09:19 AM
2011 Stock Class Motor Rules pedrocamp High Speed Hobbies, NC 7 2011.02.23 06:55 PM
MHS 2012 PN Regional!! ruf993 Mini Z Racing, Maj's Hobby Shop, Saddle Brook NJ 58 2010.10.29 10:17 PM
Race Event - Saturday - 03/08/08 - ALTERNATE LOCATION! AtlRC Atlanta Mini Scale Racing 9 2008.03.14 10:29 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2011 Mini-ZRacer.com
Mini Inferno Sale - Up to $85 Instant Savings!
Micro-T Hop-Ups
RC18R, M18, Micro RS4, Mini-LST, TamTech-Gear, Minizilla, RC18T, RC18B, RC18MT
shop.tinyrc.com Products

more»
Tiny RC Community News
[03/22/17] MZR was on vacation, didn't... : All kidding aside, the host experienced a bit of a server meltdown last week and efforts to restore the site to a new server took longer than anticipated. The current server is temporary until - more»
[11/25/15] Did You Hear? Our Black... : Hey Racers,
We're getting started a bit early with our Black Friday sale this year.  Generally we're not supporters of retailers opening early on Thanksgiving, but in our case, we're - more»
[06/30/15] shop.tinyrc.com: Have You... : Hey All! Just a quick reminder to everyone that we post all of our shop.tinyrc.com Newletters here on the MZR Forum. If for some reason you miss them in your email inbox, you can always see the - more»
Mini-Z, Mini-Z Racer, MR-02, MA-010
M18, M18T, RC18T, Mini-LST, Mini-T, Micro RS4, XRay, 1/18, 18th scale
XMODS, XMOD, Micro Flight, ZipZaps, ZipZaps SE, Bit Char-G, MicroSizers, TTTT, Plantraco Desktop Rover, SuperSlicks, Digi Q
Mini Inferno, Mini Inferno ST, half EIGHT, 1/16, 16th scale
Epoch, Indoor Racer, 1/43, 43rd scale
E-Savage, eSavage, eZilla, e-Zilla, HPI
Robots, Bots, Bipeds, Wheeled, Manoi, Roomba, NXT, Lego, Hacking
Crawling, Crawlers, Micro, RC, Losi Mini-Rock Crawler, Duratrax Cliff Climber
Kyosho Minium, Caliber 120, Minium Forums
Mini-Z Hop-Ups, Mini-Z Parts, Mini Inferno Hop-Ups, Mini Inferno Parts, M18 Hop-Ups, M18 Parts