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Old 2006.11.08, 07:22 AM   #1
carrapateira
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Aluminium TieRod - Yes or not???

Hi all,

just a quick easy question for you guys.

Are the aluminium front Tierod for MR-02 worth it or not? I mean, comparing them to the plastic ones (ex.Kyosho), do the aluminium ones make the steering more precise?

Or are they useless and just add extra weigth to the car??

Thanks for your help.
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Old 2006.11.08, 09:10 AM   #2
arch2b
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one of two things will break with the steering, the loop on the tie rod or the tie rod connecting shaft on the knuckle. it's cheaper to replace the tie rod, not to mentioned slightly easier since it's only held on with one body clip.

i prefer plastic but you shoulld check some of the pn top drivers setups recently discussed if you want expert advice
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Old 2006.11.08, 11:24 AM   #3
carrapateira
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would love to see the top PN guys setups for MR-02. where can I find them.

thanks in advance
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Old 2006.11.08, 12:21 PM   #4
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My personal opinion is that you must decide if you want alloy tie rod or alloy front knuckle, because 2 alloy parts in constant contact and with motion will deteriorate very quicly and you wil suddendly get a weird response because of that deterioration.
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Old 2006.11.08, 04:21 PM   #5
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Personally, i dont think alloy tierods or knuckles are necessary. I find it pretty hard to breath them even if i crash very hard. You gotta be a pretty bad driver to break them . So with durability aside, there is really no reason to use alloy other than for the bling factor.

As for more precise steering? i dont really get how alloy would improve precision.
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Old 2006.11.08, 04:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangerous_Soul
My personal opinion is that you must decide if you want alloy tie rod or alloy front knuckle, because 2 alloy parts in constant contact and with motion will deteriorate very quicly and you wil suddendly get a weird response because of that deterioration.
I would think with such small forces involved, galling would not be much of a problem, but I never tried it. Little bit of lubricant should also take care of it, but it would attract dirt. I do like the idea of aluminum tie rod and knuckle because they have the potential to have less freeplay especially if they both come from the same manufacture.
However, if the parts do wear, and money is no object, you can spend about $10-20 and have the tie rod dry lubed with moly sulfide in some automotive coating house. Very low coef of friction and last the life of the part with no maintenance and does not attract dirt. Adds about .0005" to the part, but you can rub the parts together to burnish them in, and create a perfect fit.
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Old 2006.11.08, 06:45 PM   #7
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it's rather easy to break wither knuckles or tie rods. all you have to do is catch a rail at the wrong angle and or take a hit from another driver. it's happened to me MANY times. i run alloy knuckles just because i prefer to replace tie rods than knuckles.

so, what kind of driver you are has nothing to do with the parts breaking other than alterting the propensity to break. i've seen the best a main driver break them on odd rail rubs and traffic rubbing. it happens to the best and worst of them
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Old 2006.11.08, 11:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b
it's rather easy to break wither knuckles or tie rods. all you have to do is catch a rail at the wrong angle and or take a hit from another driver. it's happened to me MANY times. i run alloy knuckles just because i prefer to replace tie rods than knuckles.

so, what kind of driver you are has nothing to do with the parts breaking other than alterting the propensity to break. i've seen the best a main driver break them on odd rail rubs and traffic rubbing. it happens to the best and worst of them
I can't agree more.

Countless times I have had stock knuckles break out of nowhere. Going into sweepers, coming off corners, etc. Haven't broken a tie rod, but I'd rather replace one of them than a set of knuckles.
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Old 2006.11.09, 01:48 AM   #9
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Plastic is cheep, and light. But if you are racing, and you break a tie rod, or a knuckle, that's it, you're done.

We run points series races in our club. We ran a 3 race event over three weeks called "Inferno" over the summer. The lead driver got stuck in trafic at the beginning of the A-Main, he took a bad hit from a lapped driver and broak the tie rod where it connects to the knuckle.

That hit cost him the new Futaba Radio that was up for first prize.

So is it worth it? That depends... you racing?
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Old 2006.11.09, 10:54 PM   #10
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I use alloy knuckles and plastic tie rods. I used to use alloy tie rods, but the response is a little slower than with the plastic. Also, depending on the company that the knuckles and tie rods are from, you may have slop or a tight fit... Ive broken a few plastic tie rods, but not enough to run alloy... unless im running in a modified class.

Some cars I still have stock plastic knuckles... so the alloy knuckles really arent very necessary, it just depends on the track conditions, and purpose of the car. If it is a very fast track, you are going to want to have more camber, and change from the stock knuckles... for a slower track with tighter turns, stock knuckles work great.

Generally, if its enough of a hit to break a plastic tie rod, it will be enough of a hit to either bend an alloy knuckle pin or axle as well. Tie rods are cheap, and easy to replace... in my opinion the best weakest link...
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Last edited by EMU; 2006.11.09 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 2006.11.10, 12:51 AM   #11
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I run with the red plastic tie rod and alloy knuckles.
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Old 2006.11.17, 01:02 PM   #12
kylelucas
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Originally Posted by will3kgt
I run with the red plastic tie rod and alloy knuckles.
I run the same as Will......... hey Will drop me a line. My work email klucas@visteon dot com. I hope all is well and hope to burn some batteries with you soon.
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Old 2006.11.18, 12:02 AM   #13
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I have alloy knuckles and an alloy tie-rod. They were both already on the car when I got it. I swapped out the tie-rod for a stock one for a while last season, and this season when we got started back up with the Z's I noticed alot of wear and slop in the plastic tie-rod, so I swapped it back to the alloy one. This is how I see it, I have had/seen alot of knuckles get broken, never seen a tie-rod break, but everyone is saying that the force has to go somewhere, but isnt that why Kyosho put in the servo saver to begin with?
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Old 2007.02.01, 05:45 PM   #14
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I think the alloy stuff is stronger than the plastic. So for me, it's not only the bling factor, that all depends on color choice, but I'd rather have all alloy and not have to replace broken plastic. That's just me. I would think plastic rubbing against alloy would cause something to go. Plus about the lubrication, some lubricant's may harm plastic, where it won't harm the alloy, and if it does, it'll probably only harm the alloy's finish. Not the material itselfe.
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Old 2007.02.06, 06:59 AM   #15
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I really think it depends on what body your running and how good it protects your wheels. I used to run a supra body on my mr-02 and the front wheels stuck out a little bit. I snagged a wall and I broke 2 plastic knuckles. Then I changed to alloy knuckles and snagged another wall and broke a tie rod. Now i'm running alloy knuckles and tie rod

Now I run an nsx body, and it protects the wheels much better. I'm thinking about possibly going to a plastic tie rod now because at the last race, my cars responce felt pretty slow, especially through the chicane.
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