1) Only LM bodies with their stock wing and no mods. If the wings crack or are broken they may be repaired back to the way the body came stock
2) Any bearings allowed
3) Only LM front rims and tires
4) Any manufacturers rear rims as long as they are the same diameter and offset as the stock LM rim for the body that they are running
5) Only Stock PC boards with 3010 fets and no stacking of fets
6) Only LM rear tires
7) No lightening of the chassis or body but weight may be added
8) Only our spec motor with a Kyosho 6 tooth pinion
9) Only 4 NIMH batteries allowed
10) Metal 4th gear in the servo is allowed
11) Any T-Bar is allowed as long as it keeps the car with the stock wheelbase.
12) Stock front end with the Kyosho black stock springs
13) Any motor wires allowed but the stock wire must be used between the batteries
14) Stock switch must be used
15) Any oils or lubes may be used as the driver sees fit for handling or performance
16) No oil filled top shocks
17) These rules are subject to change as the club feels fit. All changes need to be voted on and the majority vote will then be accepted. Any rule changes must be agreed upon before any qualifying runs have been ran for that day or they will be accepted as a new rule the next race day.
18) All cars must be inspected before the qualifiers start
19) Metal rear pods are legal but the ride height adjusters must be so the axle is kept in the middle of the adjustment range or as close to stock height as possible.
20) Any protests will need to be submitted to Gary or Mike within 10 minutes of the mains being completed. $10 will need to be submitted with the protest and the item that they feel is illegal. Gary and Mike’s findings are final. If Gary’s and Mike’s decision oppose each other than Reggie will have the final tie breaking vote. If the item is found to be illegal the protester will keep their $10 and the owner of the illegal car will lose their points and position for that night. If the item is found to be legal then the owner of the protested car gets to keep the $10.
Last edited by Mike Keely; 2014.03.05 at 06:50 PM.
Reason: Rule changes
:MZ301, MZ 302, MZ403 Those are the Dif, motor pod and small parts pkg's. There is a package, MZ304(motor case conversion from MM to LM with dif included. The wheels are MZH302RE(Mazda/Nissan) MZH301FA(962KH) and MZH303SM(Sauber)
One of the coolest sets of rules I've ever seen for a stock class. Very
do-able! Really like the protest part too! You guys are getting serious!
I can't wait until we get more racers up here so we can build a Spec class as well, for now though we gotta keep it fairly open for the newbs.
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thanks Mike for updating the rules,
sejin and i wont make it tonight bc our Lm cars has not come in
i have a question about the below rule-just wondering why we want this rule? wouldn't the better rule be "only stock wiring is allowed, no modifications what so ever"
"13) Any motor wires allowed but the stock wire must be used between the batteries"
thanks Mike for updating the rules,
sejin and i wont make it tonight bc our Lm cars has not come in
i have a question about the below rule-just wondering why we want this rule? wouldn't the better rule be "only stock wiring is allowed, no modifications what so ever"
"13) Any motor wires allowed but the stock wire must be used between the batteries"
The stock wires that come with the PN motors are a little bit more flexible and the stock motor wire gets pretty hard after a while. The reason I kept the wire between the batteries is to make this the restrictor that will keep us all at the same speed. Everyone has to buy the PN motor and it comes on the motor so no one is needing to buy anything extra that they do not already have.
You could put 12 gauge wire everywhere and keep that same wire between the batteries and the 12 gauge wire and a stock car will still have the same power. That is the reason.
Question: would relocating the body posts clips be allowed?
i ask this because, i did this to all of my lm bodies... if you have noticed, most of the lm bodies that come from kyosho have a really high tire to fender clearance especially in the rear (i usually cringe at the site of these things)... and the only remedy (for me) to make them look decent, was to relocate the body clips a few 2-3 mm up from their original position...
check out the pics of what i did in this thread ---> click here
here's a before pic...
and after...
hmm... Can't seem to paste pics under images anymore... Is there a reason for this? Anyway just click on the link...
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