2002.01.18, 03:53 PM
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#1
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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Motor Capacitor/Wires/Twitching
Well my motor wires broke - I kinda retaped a hole through my aluminum plate in the wrong spot undesirably, and ruined my plate, so I just put new wires on it. (see photo)
While doing so I broke part of my wire clip off into the motor, so I had to dissassemble it to get it out. While I was in there I put some switch lube on the motor comutator, I had no idea if I should or not figured experiment.
I put it back together, resoldered on the capacitors, remembered the one I was using made it worse (maybe I had it on backwards or someting, if thats possible ). So I grabed a 104 capacitor from a cordless phone I had been toying around with, this sucker is quite large compared to what racers normaly put on their Z motors . (see photo).
Well when I was done and put it back in my Z and flipped it on, I had almost no twitching, even while standing still! I also managed to walk with the car a foot or two farther from my transmitter (but still far too limited), before it went crazy again.
While driving forward I no longer get motor interferance, so I guess this time I put the capacitor on right, and the right kind .
Or maybe it was the switch lube on the motor!? Or maybe the fact I resoldered all the solder points better?! Or maybe the non-aluminum motor terminals? The better Motor Wire?! -- too bad i didnt do just one fix or I might know for sure .
The car does not jerk forward when I dont want it too, nor does it steer left and right when I dont want it too, any miss directions in my last run around the living room were purely driver error. My Z is finaly controllable again! -- but still limited range, I am going to have to play with the filter dial or something.. since I probly messed that up trying to fix the twitches and other problems.
I am currently asuming the stand still twitching, wich was fixed, was caused by the motor, even though the throttle was not being applied. I think that even though it was not making the non-centered alarm sound, or even moving, it was getting power on and off forward/reverse from interferance etc.. Just enough to play with the recievers mind, and make the servo twitch. I currently have at least a 80% reduction in twitching, way more acceptable.
And on top of all of that, my Z apears to be more punchy... speedy etc...
Capacitors markings:
X
104M
.(Y)
Photo of LARGE Capacitor:
http://members.home.net/draconious/M...gCapacitor.jpg
Motor is still a STOCK mini-Z motor, while re soldering the wires, I kinda melted the corner of my End bell, and since it was apart, I figured bah just replace it with a nice red one that I got from a Hasbro Record Breaker motor, wich inside looks just like the Mini-Z motor only with gold instead of red winding wire coating, and cheap brushes.
Photo of previous wires/motor/capacitor:
http://members.home.net/draconious/M...enMotorPod.jpg
Last edited by Draconious; 2002.01.18 at 04:06 PM.
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2002.01.18, 04:00 PM
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#2
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Guest
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Hey, fix that broken picture link! I have a 104 cap on my desk at home (I hope it isn't lost) that I will be putting on tonight between the terminals. The one I have is so small (I posted a picture of it a week ago) that I had to put it on a scanner to read the number on it!
Jeff
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2002.01.18, 04:07 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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I was, took like 3 changes.. found out it was a bad .jpg save.... seems thats happening a lot lately...
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2002.01.18, 04:11 PM
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#4
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Guest
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Let me just say that the shrink tubing around the bottom of the antenna is sheer genious! I'm going to do that when I get home!
Jeff
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2002.01.18, 04:29 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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That is mostly there, to hide the VERY ugly lead wire I have tightly coiled around and soldered onto the main antenna wire. But it kinda prevents the accidental motor wire springing up and touching it, and shorting it out too . That red shrink wrap I used kinda sucked, I should nto have used a soldering iron to heat it I guess, melted it in a few places, just a little bit, instead of shrunk it .
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2002.01.18, 09:37 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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Further testing... I still have some random twitches, and thrusts forward, but its a whole lot better now. Its likely only doing it around areas of high interferance... I have not taken it to an open area yet.
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2002.01.18, 10:08 PM
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#7
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Mini-Z Novice
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Chico, CA.
Posts: 11
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Failed/Broken Motor Wires & Glitching
Don't you just love it Now I've failed the red wire on my 2nd Mercedes CLK @ the board. Same wire - same location. Lucky I've got a supply of TQ wire which I've used to replace the stock rigid small dia. wires.
As far as glitching - I've also experienced some of this while standing next to my house heater fan metal cabinet in the garage. Seems to clear up if I move away from the metal.
Still havin a goooooood time w/ the Mercedes's & F1's. No big time failures yet and am still running 95% stock parts.
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2002.01.18, 10:20 PM
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#8
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Offroad Specialist
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Wilmington NC USA
Posts: 1,647
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i know jack schitt about resistors, capacitors, etc, so enlighten me: how can i tell if an old capacitor is okay to use? i found some humongoid capacitors (hey, at least i can tell them apart from other doodads ). they're about 1.5 cm across!
__________________
My truck is like my fat girlfriend. All it does is f*** me and take my money.
AIM - TheBigGreenGMC
'Wheelin is Life.
WRCRacer's Gallery
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2002.01.18, 11:01 PM
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#9
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Offroad Specialist
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Wilmington NC USA
Posts: 1,647
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drac, i found some that look alot like urs. they say
X
104.K
(Y)
can i use these?
__________________
My truck is like my fat girlfriend. All it does is f*** me and take my money.
AIM - TheBigGreenGMC
'Wheelin is Life.
WRCRacer's Gallery
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2002.01.19, 12:05 AM
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#10
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Guest
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As long as they are 104's they should be OK. The ones I have are VERY small... about 1/8" wide or thereabouts.
Jeff
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2002.01.19, 05:08 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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IF its a 104.. solder it on, and try it, I have done it with 3 different capacitors so far, this is the first that actualy helped - the first was some itty bitty 104, that might not have actualy been a capacitor... the second was a 101 wich actualy made things worse, or at least it didnt help.
Now if I can just solve the "fried" part of my reciever my Mini-Z would be good as new , hmm.... but any one that claims to know how to fix the Mini-Z refuses to say what part is likely to fry when antenna hits battery terminal, they would rather you pay them to fix it, so much for helping the Mini-Z community
Too bad we couldnt like solder 2 Diodes facing in oposite directions onto the base of the antenna, then if it touches it should not make a circut
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2002.03.03, 02:04 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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Say good by to the big capacitor I kinda broke it off... oops. Time to seach for more that work. --- car is working just fine with out it though... after my antenna fix.
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2003.01.05, 10:09 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: makati, philippines
Posts: 8,702
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limited range...
hi drac...
did a search... i ran into this problem on one of my z's... and looks like your post most resembles my situation (limited range of the mini-z) anything past 20 feet results in severe wheel twitching left right left right non-stop, not to mention no control over the trottle...
so i just wanted to ask... have you solved your limited range problem on your mini-z? how'd you do it? would changing the fet's do it? would adjusting the core solve anything? or should i just take the whole thing out?
sigh...just don't know what to do with it now...
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2003.01.05, 03:09 PM
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#14
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 6,164
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Search for the antenna sweet spots on the forum, there were further posts after this of me fixing it... however I currently have a totaly new Z.. although the old one DOES work.. I just need to fix a few wires and screws etc.... I gave up on it cuz too many lose wires and it woudl shut off on impact hehe.
also my tips tricks area of my page should link to antenna alternatative solder spots (the sweet spots)... that is the only way that I got around the bad range after frying my Z...
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