2008.04.21, 09:54 PM
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#1
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The Galliant Dude
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 920
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What do you think of this setup?
I'm setting up my MA-010 to be more competitive. I'm considering the following setup. Please post suggestions. Stars indicated parts I already have purchased. None of this is set in stone, this is just the setup I'm considering, any and all input is appreciated.
-I'm setting the car up for tracks that are HFAY sized to double HFAY size,
-I'm trying to get a general setup that doesnt have to be tweaked much for varying tracks, I'd rather alter my driving some than my car every time
-I'm partial to 94mm chassis over 98mm, I feel it suits my driving style better, but I dont HAVE to run 94mm (I just like it).
Chassis:
94mm wheelbase*
SP blue/grey chassis w/gold terminals*
Tires:
atomic 9.5 mm treaded 20 degree rear tires*
atomic 9.5 mm treaded 10 degree front tires*
Motor:
Atomic Standard motor (vented)*
Atomic heatsink*
Atomic aluminum motor holders*
Gearing:
19/29 with atomic aluminum pinion gear*
Drivetrain:
3Racing ball differentials front and back*
Atomicmods sealed bearings*
Suspension:
Atomic SE soft/medium springs front and back*
3 degree rear camber knuckles
2 degree front camber knuckles
Drivetrain:
Atomic titanium or extra sets of stock kyosho swing shafts
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2008.04.21, 10:24 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 365
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Tires:
Any particular reason to choose a grippier tire at front than the rear? I'd humbly recommend using the same tire for more predictable handling. And use shell that allows wider offset and wide tires at rear will also somewhat help preventing traction roll
Drivetrain:
Do you have a little more noise from the car than people using stock/other brand names? 3 racing diff gear precision is a little off, but I am not too familiar with their diff quality. Atomic diff receive great comments as being best bang for buck, but for top quality, I would choose kyosho metal diff.
Electronics:
I'd recommend to upgrade to an at least of 2x2 4562 mod for your fets, since this will open doors to many more motor option and potential for a faster car.
Motor:
If you do get an upgrade, get an atomic stock R or an atomic stock motor, both are charted as some of the most efficient motors.
Suspension:
Can't remember the Atomic spring much, since it was long ago that I have used them. But I do find the PN Pro II series offer pretty good performance/consistency/ride height for my use on RCP.
knuckle, if you are using 3 deg rear, I'd suggest to try the kyosho plastic 3 deg knuckles for practice, since it is breakable and the last thing you want is to bend your knuckles without knowing and keep driving it in competition.
Batteries:
Vitally important, I personally look for batteries that have good punch and most importantly, consistency. Besides matched batteries, the new team orion 900HV is my favorite.
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2008.04.21, 11:17 PM
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#3
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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I agree with what Aurora has said. Especially about the knuckles. I prefer the plastic myself. I have bent a few PN knuckles, and didnt realize for a little while, and the car was handling poorly until I replaced them. I have yet to break a plastic knuckle, although I have seen the small tabs that go in the tie rod breaking.
I use plastic tie rods, especially in the rear.
The FET mod is not entirely necessary, especially for the small track... but will prevent issues later down the road, when you may want to run hotter motors.
I would also suggest sticking with the stock driveshaft, with alloy or ti swingshafts. The stock shaft tends to have better gear mesh, and spins more free. If you go 98mm, then the Atomic 98mm driveshaft with Atomic gears
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EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
Last edited by EMU; 2008.04.21 at 11:20 PM.
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2008.04.22, 04:13 AM
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#4
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The Galliant Dude
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 920
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Thanks for the input, I will go with kyosho stock swing shafts and plastic knuckles. I was replacing my knuckles with aluminum becuase my plastic one bent once or twice from collisions.
The 3racing ball diff... I can't say too much about them yet as I ordered them today. I hope I didn't make a mistake, I got both front and back for 30 bucks shipped. We will see how that goes, I may learn a lesson about trying to save some money without a lot of research on that one.
FET upgrade sounds good, I will consider it but I think I was going to consider racing my MA-010 in the HFAY stock class, which does not permit FET upgrades.
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2008.04.22, 08:43 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 77
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Everything sounds peachy. I really hope the 3racing stuff works out. I try to stick to atomic,pn or kyosho but I am hoping that 3 racing might be an option, maybe even if there slightly less quality. I can always use them in a drifter or something. Best of luck to you
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2008.04.22, 08:59 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,683
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The 3racing parts are of great quality. I would choose their knuckles over the Kyosho ones. And the atomic diffs over the 3racing ones. As for swing shafts, use the 3racing ones as well, they are very durable and very well priced. For springs, the PN Lowdown set- any of the versions are probably your best bet. The atomic springs are a bit on the stiff side.
Stay away from plastic knuckles as they WILL BREAK. And quite often. We experimented with these for a while, but for one, they are not as smooth as the 3racing ones and also they were quickly becoming the number one reason for retirement from our races. Heavy duty swing shafts is probably the # 2 or #3 upgrade I would recommend on the car. The stock ones just don't last long. Many times you will also not figure out that they are broken and your car will do all kinds of crazy stuff due to this.
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2008.04.22, 09:45 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 365
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CT,
I do exactly agree with the kyosho plastic knuckles are no good for racing, since as everyone said--it will break. And I would say it is probably best to race around with a bent knuckle(s) and finish last than having a broken knuckle and not finish...
With that being said, I would still recommend using the plastic knuckles for day-to-day practice, and only start using the metal knuckles for the race or race prep. Unless people are constantly checking for bind spot and doing comparison on the knuckles condition, and won't mind changing/replacing them as disposables, one will not be aware of the bent(or not willing to change it too soon) unless it is rather severe.
And breakable knuckles such as kyosho will almost let you know immediately. Of course, by the end of the day, it is also a personal preference matter too. And do pardon me if the out loud thoughts are peachy, hopefully it is just more reference to the others.
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2008.04.22, 02:15 PM
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#8
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Honda Insight Racer!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado, USA!
Posts: 6,399
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So what are the smoothest knuckles available for the AWD?
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2008.04.23, 07:16 PM
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#9
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The Galliant Dude
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 920
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For the 3racing ball diffs, do i need/should I get a thrust bearing upgrade? Are they universal or do i have to find a 3racing thrust bearing. Thanks- Brandon
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2008.04.24, 01:54 AM
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#10
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Left Foot Braker
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bombay, India
Posts: 208
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Plastic knuckles make smooth suspension action nearly impossible. Although coating the knuckles with a layer of turtle wax temporarily solves the problem, it is one cast-iron bitch to take apart the entire chassis for a bit of waxing after every couple of runs. My next order will definitely replace my current plastic knuckles with Atomic Ver. II aluminum ones.
My question is, will the Al. knuckles be smoother without any need for constant cleaning and polishing? If they maintain a smooth suspension action over a substantially long time without maintenance, I'd definitely won't mind going for the aluminum knuckles despite the increased unsprung mass attributed to them.
__________________
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Traction is a double edged sword; master it and you can cut God
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2008.04.24, 09:17 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreophile
My question is, will the Al. knuckles be smoother without any need for constant cleaning and polishing? If they maintain a smooth suspension action over a substantially long time without maintenance, I'd definitely won't mind going for the aluminum knuckles despite the increased unsprung mass attributed to them.
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PN Racing and Atomic need some cleaning because the suspension runs in some plastic/delrin bushings that will eventualy wear out, or pick up debris.
If you want hasle free suspension, and don't mind the lack of 0.5º camber increments then get the 3 racing knuckles, they work great
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Reflex Racing International Team Driver
Alberto Carvalho - Portugal
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