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Old 2012.01.06, 08:44 PM   #1
angel7692
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Exclamation Brand New MR-030 Problems

Hey all,

I just got my first Mini-Z. It's an Enzo Ferrari MR-030 with a Perfex KT-18 transmitter.

I noticed that the wheel that's next to the large gear/differential (right wheel) tends to get more power than the other wheel (left wheel). If I tighten the bolts to where the manual says they should be tightened the left wheel doesn't get power. If I loosen the bolt I still find that the right wheel is the "preferred" wheel when it comes to distributing power from the motor. Is this the fault of the stock differential? Is my car defective?

That wheel power issue results in the car spinning out when I do more than 50% throttle. My mate just bought the MR-020 Ready Set and he is not experiencing any of these problems. He can go full throttle without spinning out. Both cars are stock.

Also I tend to hear a crackling noise (like electricity) coming from the car while it's not moving. What is that; a defect?

Thank you.

Last edited by angel7692; 2012.01.06 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 2012.01.06, 10:13 PM   #2
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The stock diff will put power down evenly as long as the tires have good traction. The variation in power you are now experiencing is either due to lack of traction or the left rear wheel nut is too tight. If it's a stock diff, make sure there is a little tiny bit of side to side play in the axle through the motor mount.

What surface are you running on and what tires do you have on?

The crackling noise is either the servo working to stay centered or if it's a bit of a whistling noise it could be the motor fets. Set the throttle trim until the noise disappears. I usually have my throttle trim set so the forward just starts to sing at the slightest forward trigger movement.
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Old 2012.01.06, 11:14 PM   #3
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What surface are you running on? What tires are you running? Is there any play in the differential from left to right?

Kris
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Old 2012.01.07, 12:37 AM   #4
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I've been playing with the nuts and it's helped but it's not perfect. There is some play in the axel. On the flip-side my friend's Ready Set came with no play in the axel it works perfect.

I'm currently driving it on a wood floor with the stock tires. These tires appear to racing slicks as there are no grooves in them.

It's not the servo or the throttle trim. The crackle sounds like it's coming from above the batteries. It's as if the sound is coming from the logic board.
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Old 2012.01.07, 07:40 AM   #5
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The wood floor is too slick for your tires. Is there still craclinkg when the radio is on?

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Old 2012.01.07, 10:08 AM   #6
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When I turn off the remote the crackling stops.

I don't think the floor is an issue as we have an Xmod and an MR-020 running with the same "****ty" tires and they don't have this issue.
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Old 2012.01.07, 11:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angel7692 View Post
When I turn off the remote the crackling stops.

I don't think the floor is an issue as we have an Xmod and an MR-020 running with the same "****ty" tires and they don't have this issue.
the crackling you hear is the servo motor or pot trying to center itself. The new 03 board are constantly trying to correct itself. I think this is a common noise with these boards. It shouldnt affect your steering.
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Old 2012.01.07, 01:05 PM   #8
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You're right. The crackle does not affect the steering. I just found it odd to hear that noise. I guess that's the way all MR-030's are?

As for the differential. Under medium to high throttle in a straight line the rear of the car kicks out to the left. It just seems to prefer to give power to one tire.

If I tighten the nuts too much only the wheel next to the differential spins. If I drive it like that the rear end doesn't kick out but it doesn't seem right as the other wheel gets no power.
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Old 2012.01.07, 01:40 PM   #9
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Xmod tires may bite a bit better on a wood floor, if it's an AWD Xmod... well, that would explain the handling difference a bit more.

Mini-Zs have alot of punch... that power usually translates into tire spin on slick surfaces. They are usually better run on office type carpet, ozite or RCP track type sufaces to experience the full potential of the cars. If you're gonna race on wood floors it would be good to invest in some soft rear tires and maybe for the front as well. Softer tires on a wood floor will pick up dust and dirt instantly though so you may want to vaccuum or even mop a bit if you want it to stay consistent. The AWDs are a bit better suited to houshold surfaces like tile, wood and driveways... The 2WDs can run well on those too but you gotta have good throttle control.

Check the shop here for some tires... I'd recommend anywhere from a kyosho 20 to a PN 6 degree tire for the rears and anywhere from a kyosho 30 to a PN 10 degree for the fronts.
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Old 2012.01.07, 03:59 PM   #10
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Normally I'd agree with you on the tires as that makes sense. When I see my friend's Mini-Z, with the same exact tires (we even did a tire swap and he still had no problem), not have this problem I'm inclined to think it's something else.

After a lot of testing I think my problem is coming from the differential. Do you have any differential trouble shooting tips? I've been adjusting the nuts on the wheels for hours and that won't fix my problem. Could it be a faulty internal differential component?
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Old 2012.01.07, 05:34 PM   #11
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Possibility with a binding in the stock diff. If you friends car is the same exact setup and his is handling on the same surface... And you've swapped tires... Maybe your H-plate is tweaked and the rear isn't getting the same loading on the rear tires. Flip the car over, minus the body, hold it level upside-down amd eyeball the rear tires and the front tires together. The tweak, if there is one, may be visible... May not be. All four tires should be on the same level. If the right or left rear appears to be sitting lower than the others, that may be your issue. Same goes for the front end as well, make sure there is no binding in the travel up front and make sure your springs are perched properly.

If the rear is tweaked, it xould be from the way it was shipped, or maybe the screws into the motor mount are not fully tightened evenly.

Tough little cars to tune but you'll figure them out eventually!

As far as the axle goes, as I said before... There should always be a tiny bit of side to side play in it... just a hairs width.

Hope all this helps.
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Old 2012.01.07, 05:40 PM   #12
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Oh, I used to pack my stock diffs with some grease to smooth them out a bit. Trouble shooting the diff... They should counter-rotate freely, with no binding. Swap diffs with your friend, see if it helps?

Make sure your front wheel nuts aren't too tight as well, on that surface... If you have a front wheel binding, it will certainly get you spinning out.
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Last edited by imxlr8ed; 2012.01.07 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 2012.01.09, 02:55 PM   #13
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I don't see any tweaking
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Old 2012.01.09, 03:00 PM   #14
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I don't see any tweaking. My friend is hesitant about swapping differentials so while that's a good idea I'll have to pass on it. What kind of grease would you reccomend. Is silicon spray good enough?

Kennon Hobby has a 20% restocking fee + shipping that I do no want to pay. I'd rather use that money for an upgraded differential. I could talk to Kyosho but I don't want to wait that long to have the car shipped overseas. I'm really leaned toward getting a new differential.

What differentials would you reccomend for an MR-03 Enzo Ferrari? It's going to be raced on an RCP track.
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Old 2012.01.09, 03:04 PM   #15
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Fresh out of ideas then, other than just to get some aftermarket tires, you'll see the car really handle then.

These cars are tough to troubleshoot, tough to see the real problems sometimes. You can chase your tail for a while before something simply overlooked turns up.

Wait, it's an Enzo body so this may not be it... are the front tires rubbing anywhere on the body? How about the rears?... they really shouldn't be but you never know.
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