The blinking light on the transmitter just indicates that it is in traing mode also called tiki tiki mode. You can put it back in normal mode by turning it off, holding full throttle and then turning it back on. The light on the transmitter will be solid then, indicating "normal" mode.
If the chassis light is not blinking or solid, then no power is making it to the board. I would inspect all connections going to the board. It may be a loose connection. If that fails, you might have a bad component on the board itself that requires a replacement board under warranty or purchase of a new board.
Update: Kyosho America decided to accept this to be returned under warranty despite it being against their policy for items purchased outside of the US. I am extremely grateful for that. They confirmed the board was bad and sent me a new Lazer instead of an Optima. Not sure why they did that, but they allowed me to keep my Optima body and wheels and tires so I was happy.
When I received this brand new Lazer I could not get it to work. After some head scratching I noticed the positive terminal on some of my Duracell batteries weren't long enough to contact the terminals on the car. I installed Energizer batteries with slightly longer positive terminals and all is well.
I'm blown away by how slow these things are though. I need more power!
Suggestions?
I'm also interested in buying an AWD chassis for drifting. The new MA-020S chassis appears to be the best place to start.
Standard non- rechargeable batteries will give you squat for performance but some relatively serious longevity. To get anywhere near peak performance you will need to invest in a few sets of rechargeable NIMH batteries and a suitable charger. Put the standard dry cells in the radio.
Standard non- rechargeable batteries will give you squat for performance but some relatively serious longevity. To get anywhere near peak performance you will need to invest in a few sets of rechargeable NIMH batteries and a suitable charger. Put the standard dry cells in the radio.
I purchased some lithium ion disposable batteries and they gave a small bump in performance.
I was told that large capacity (mAh) NiMH batteries didn't offer as much punch as NiMH batteries with less capacity. Is this true?
Which NiMH batteries and charger do you recommend?
The current battery offerings from PN racing are more than adequate at 800MAH. They can be purchased directly or probably through our forum benefactor, Tiny RC. Same for chargers. There are literally dozens available. I have always had a great deal of luck with the offerings from Lacrosse Technology. The BC 900 and above series chargers are excellent and come with a usable set of triple AAA and AA batteries. They have become a bit pricey in recent years but deals can be found. The new charger from "Sky" has proven to be very good as well. Look for something with a 1000MAH charge rate which is adjustable for various other rates as well. Most have discharge capabilities as well. Just go shopping at Tiny RC.
I was told that FlySky radios would bind with Mini-Zs. Is this true?
I believe, but don't quote me, that people have had success binding FlySky radios with the Sports series boards. No go with the ASF boards, which are far superior to the Sports series.
__________________
GoFly
Helifar
Kyosho
Goodrich RC Club
I purchased a PN Racing 50T DBB motor on sale at my LHS. I put it in tonight and it really woke my buggy up. But now I'm hearing a clicking sound. I don't know if it's the gears or the slipper clutch. I'm used to 1/10 slipper clutches and they don't grind or click.
Is the slipper clutch adjustable?
Also, I'm going to need a good set of screwdrivers if I continue working on this. All my tools are geared towards 1/10th RCs. Any suggestions for good screwdrivers with hardened tips that won't round off?
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