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Old 2019.01.17, 05:28 AM   #16
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The steering is MUCH better on the RWD than Sports. As is the throttle resolution. Its like a good toy compared to a precision instrument.
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Old 2019.01.17, 09:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
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The steering is MUCH better on the RWD than Sports. As is the throttle resolution. Its like a good toy compared to a precision instrument.
would that be the kt19 or kt531p?
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Old 2019.01.17, 10:21 AM   #18
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531.

I always work out the rear suspension first, front suspension is less important and the stock front end is surprisingly good if you reverse the kingpin so that the kingpin is retained by the upper arm and ball is in the lower arm. Then the knuckle only rotates on the kingpin and suspension is much smoother.
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Old 2019.01.17, 07:34 PM   #19
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The car you are referring to as your Sport 2 is the newer RWD that Emu is talking about. It uses the KT531. There are actually 2 sports models that predate the RWD. The original sport and the Sport 2. The sport 2 was slightly better, but both utilized the KT19 radio and had less precise steering response. It is a small detail but important if you order a Sports 2 board and expect it to work with your 531 radio (it won't). You want the newer RWD board if you need a replacement that doesn't involved spending big money on radio gear. Good Luck!
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Old 2019.01.17, 09:59 PM   #20
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The car you are referring to as your Sport 2 is the newer RWD that Emu is talking about. It uses the KT531. There are actually 2 sports models that predate the RWD. The original sport and the Sport 2. The sport 2 was slightly better, but both utilized the KT19 radio and had less precise steering response. It is a small detail but important if you order a Sports 2 board and expect it to work with your 531 radio (it won't). You want the newer RWD board if you need a replacement that doesn't involved spending big money on radio gear. Good Luck!
Gotcha. somewhere I seen the rwd called the sport 2. I just went by that. the box for my one car says rwd. lots of names going in and I didn't know better.

with that said, I'll have 2 rwd kt531p cars and a kt19.

what chassis should each car be? stock/classic Jota 94mm RM, Audi R8 70 turn super stock 98mm MM, and LM Mazda 787B open class?

I'll be doing a double stack of the fets I bought. im thinking the kt531p cars get the fets and the kt19 stays stock? or would the fets somehow improve the steering (more available power from better fets. when running as to not drain the available amps)
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Old 2019.01.17, 11:12 PM   #21
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The fets used on the RWD boards are already 3x better than the ones in the sports. For anything higher wind than a 39/43t motor, I wouldn't waste the time or fets on it with the RWD cars. The resistance and current capabilities are good, and you wouldn't notice a difference.

The capabilities of the sports board are lacking (half that of the ASF), and a 50t would put it right near the limit of its capabilities. I would consider upgrading those fets, but then you're stuck with poor steering response and no throttle trim adjustment. I avoid sports like the plague, won't drive one even if it was given to me. I would swap the electronics immediately. I was impressed by the RWD, it has slightly more punch then my dated ASF cars which are high mileage and have run hot motors which I feel puts more wear on the esc and slows it down slightly.

These are my personal opinions, the RWD I feel can be raced at the highest level, while sports is a novice class car which is good to learn but has electronics limitations.
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Old 2019.01.18, 06:59 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU View Post
The fets used on the RWD boards are already 3x better than the ones in the sports. For anything higher wind than a 39/43t motor, I wouldn't waste the time or fets on it with the RWD cars. The resistance and current capabilities are good, and you wouldn't notice a difference.

The capabilities of the sports board are lacking (half that of the ASF), and a 50t would put it right near the limit of its capabilities. I would consider upgrading those fets, but then you're stuck with poor steering response and no throttle trim adjustment. I avoid sports like the plague, won't drive one even if it was given to me. I would swap the electronics immediately. I was impressed by the RWD, it has slightly more punch then my dated ASF cars which are high mileage and have run hot motors which I feel puts more wear on the esc and slows it down slightly.

These are my personal opinions, the RWD I feel can be raced at the highest level, while sports is a novice class car which is good to learn but has electronics limitations.
This response has made my decision.

I heard flysky transmitters can be bound to the car to replace the KT19. I happen to have one, the GT3C. I know that probably wont changs the steering response. but that'll give throttle trim. And it'll only be until I upgrad the board.

I'll leave the Kt531P cars for the stock and super stock classes. i wont bother to fet mod the super stock car.

The KT19 car I'll fet stack and then eventually upgrade the board if I find the steering lacking, which I probably will. what would be the cheapest way at that point?

I've attached pics that I could find of the tracks that are near me. I'll only be running the LM at the one with the garage doors. I might run the Jota in the stock class there however.

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.
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Old 2019.01.18, 10:53 AM   #23
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I really like the layout of the first track. Doesn't take up a lot of space, but has a good variety of corners and a good flow.
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Old 2019.01.18, 03:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ka0sgh0st View Post
This response has made my decision.

I heard flysky transmitters can be bound to the car to replace the KT19. I happen to have one, the GT3C. I know that probably wont changs the steering response. but that'll give throttle trim. And it'll only be until I upgrad the board.

I'll leave the Kt531P cars for the stock and super stock classes. i wont bother to fet mod the super stock car.

The KT19 car I'll fet stack and then eventually upgrade the board if I find the steering lacking, which I probably will. what would be the cheapest way at that point?

I've attached pics that I could find of the tracks that are near me. I'll only be running the LM at the one with the garage doors. I might run the Jota in the stock class there however.

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.
I find a ball diff pretty useful for taming/tuning mod cars a bit. Plus, you pretty much have to get a ball diff if you want to go to 64p gears, which are also useful for mod motors.
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Old 2019.01.18, 08:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ka0sgh0st View Post

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.
I see no rule stating that LM cars are not allowed in SS class, and they come with a disc damper... Or you could get a narrow chassis EVO, with the MM2 rear pod, and which has a disc damper and adapt it to brushed with the 70t.

This behavior is against the spirit of the rules, and actually should not be done if nobody else is using an LM car or EVO with disc damper... eventhough it isnt explicitly stated, the rules trend towards using cars that do not permit them. I always look for loopholes, as there will always be someone else that seen these loopholes and takes advantage.
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Old 2019.01.23, 09:04 AM   #26
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I had to shrink them down to get them to upload. I have the arm as far down as possible, the screw on the bottom is touching the motor. I do think the whole rear fitment of the body is a little tight, and the really long motor wires don't help. The mount kind of rubs on the rear bumper part, if I don't double check the spur, it will rub on the bumper part as well. then of course the damper rubs on the body, that's the last pic.

as it sits now, being a sport model, what would be the best motor to run with that pod and diff, with the fet mod?
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Old 2019.01.23, 07:44 PM   #27
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It looks like the diffuser hitting the spur could be the main issue here. A little filing with a sanding stick should remedy that.

Check the clearance at the front lower area of the rear wheel arches. I get some rubbing with new LM tires there and removed a little material for clearance.

In general, I always try to have minimal wire length that won't bind or restrict the rear end. Excess wires can go places you don't want and cause impingement.
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Old 2019.01.23, 10:25 PM   #28
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It looks like the diffuser hitting the spur could be the main issue here. A little filing with a sanding stick should remedy that.

Check the clearance at the front lower area of the rear wheel arches. I get some rubbing with new LM tires there and removed a little material for clearance.

In general, I always try to have minimal wire length that won't bind or restrict the rear end. Excess wires can go places you don't want and cause impingement.
I'll have to get something to sand with then. luckily a new harbor freight opened up in town last summer. cheap.tools should be fine.

I definitely need to sand the front of the body. the touch occasionally, they are not in contact most of the time, but there are some black marks on the body.

I dont really want to mess with the wires as they have the ends to screw down to the car, and are soldered to the motor. I suppose when I upgrade motors I can could unsolder the wires and make them shorter, one at a time. If I stay brushed, I would like to keep them removable, I know directly wired would be better though. is there something better that could be used for a motor connection, better than the stock tab and screw setup?

also, once I fix all that, what should I do about the shock on top rubbing the body? is there something I could do to raise the height of the rear of the body, and how would that affect the car? or is it possible to shrink the damper somehow, maybe by a different damper from PN or something?

I probably wont be racing this car as soon as I'd like to have, but in the mean time I will st least have the Classic GT and the 70 turn super stock classes to race. Just need a TPlate for the Super Stock class and I should have a good base on where to start tuning the car. I'm waiting for the PN black carbon fiber T plates to go back into stock, so I can get one of each of the different hardness levels.
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Old 2019.01.23, 11:03 PM   #29
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Can you take a side pic of the chassis from the left side?

Looks like the damper plate adapter chassis side is upside down. The screw to the damper post should be a countersink screw, which allows a lower arm position.

To raise the body, detach the side clips carefully (acetone helps) and reposition them 1mm lower on the body.

I have no clearance issues with either of my mazda 787 cars with side clips default and both using top shocks (default kyosho). It does look like your top screw from the damper post is rubbing the body... any washers between the shock and the post? If so remove them.
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Old 2019.01.23, 11:12 PM   #30
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Can you take a side pic of the chassis from the left side?

Looks like the damper plate adapter chassis side is upside down. The screw to the damper post should be a countersink screw, which allows a lower arm position.
I saw that too, was wondering if he flipped it to accommodate the higher post mount on the Atomic pod.

Here's how I have that damper installed, without the spring:

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