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Old 2019.10.13, 05:07 PM   #1
arch2b
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Corvette Racing Chevrolet Corvette ZR1

Corvette Racing Chevrolet Corvette ZR1

More images HERE.

Materials:
Krylon Gloss Sunbeam
Krylon Brilliant Metallic Silver
Krylon Gloss Black
Tamiya Flat Red
Tamiya Flat Black
Pattos CrvetteC7R-No63-LM16 clear vinyl decals at 1:27 scale with background colors removed.

This one is more straight forward and true to actually livery in that is that is a shade of yellow. I've never been a huge fan of Yellow however this particular shade turned out well in my opinion. Admittedly, I forgot to paint The C pillars Black. I was in a rush to get this one done by the weekend and in my haste, overlooked cutting out these areas for the gloss Black color pass. I also had to photograph at the track as I missed a couple days in the clear coat process due to overtime at work.







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Old 2019.10.14, 01:01 PM   #2
TPDazzle
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Looks great Arch, nice and clean. This is the livery I wanted to put on mine, but I accidentally ordered the red, white and blue decals instead. I didn't want to go to more trouble and expense, so I just stuck with it. Now that you've built a few of these up, how do you like it as a race body? I ordered the lexan window from PN. But it only saves 1 gram, (the stock Vette window is light) so I'm not sure if it is worth it. I am probably going to replace a beat up 599 with the vette.
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Old 2019.10.15, 07:32 AM   #3
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I like the ZR1, about the same as 599XX. I prefer the ZR1 for small tracks and 599XX for larger tracks. You MUST keep a clean line with the ZR1 as the front end will snag the wall. Overall, this is likely a benefit to your training as you should not be hitting walls anyway so itís good motivation if you will. The 599XX tends to glance off more than the ZR1. I will be keeping both in my box and interchanging between the two based on track layout. I run the same offsets for both so itís a fast and easy swap for me. I continue to experiment with just how much I grind down the splitter to see if it helps with the walls with each new car I paint. Iím sure Iíll find the sweet spot eventually. Iím also not a fan of butchering the body for aero so I tend to keep all my trimming down very subtle. Some donít bat an eye at hacking off almost the entire rear end, just not my style. The scale detail is very important to me and my interest in this scale. If this scale was dominated by lexan amalgamations like so many other scales, I likely wouldnít be here anymore.
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Old 2019.10.15, 09:52 AM   #4
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I agree, I never mess with cutting the body down other than trimming the splitter. While some lexan bodies look decent, none of them compare to the molded bodies. I love the scale look as well. I've even put some slot car interiors in cars that I've put lexan windows in to improve the looks a bit. I rounded the corners off my Vette 's splitter, but I couldn't bring myself to grind it off completely. The pn lexan window is actually the whole roof. I couldn't bring myself to cut the roof off, which is illegal in HFAY racer class anyway. I need to trim the lexan down to see what it weighs before I sort that out, but my guess is it is not worth messing with it.
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Old 2019.10.15, 08:19 PM   #5
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I've already started another job and went to put on a second coat tonight of same color and I guess it's just to cold out for the paint and within 10 minutes inside, it crinkled all over the place absolute trash now and have to start over from scratch. Not the first time I've had this happen but first time in a long time and had forgotten how soul crushing it can be after you've done multiple coats only to have it go horribly wrong at the end. No saving it so at least got some frustration out by stomping on it repeatedly. I've never been successful at stripping paint from a body so gave up on that effort long ago. It always melted, became brittle or ruined the surface or all the above.
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Old 2019.10.18, 09:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
I've already started another job and went to put on a second coat tonight of same color and I guess it's just to cold out for the paint and within 10 minutes inside, it crinkled all over the place absolute trash now and have to start over from scratch. Not the first time I've had this happen but first time in a long time and had forgotten how soul crushing it can be after you've done multiple coats only to have it go horribly wrong at the end. No saving it so at least got some frustration out by stomping on it repeatedly. I've never been successful at stripping paint from a body so gave up on that effort long ago. It always melted, became brittle or ruined the surface or all the above.
That is a huge bummer. I was almost done with a Shelby Cobra Coupe when I managed to ruin the paint by leaving it under a lamp to dry and accidentally baking the masking tape adhesive into the paint. It was heartbreaking because I had spent a lot of time on it. A couple days in a simple green bath did the trick on Tamiya Acrylic, but I haven't started to repaint yet.
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Old 2019.10.18, 12:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
I've already started another job and went to put on a second coat tonight of same color and I guess it's just to cold out for the paint and within 10 minutes inside, it crinkled all over the place absolute trash now and have to start over from scratch. Not the first time I've had this happen but first time in a long time and had forgotten how soul crushing it can be after you've done multiple coats only to have it go horribly wrong at the end. No saving it so at least got some frustration out by stomping on it repeatedly. I've never been successful at stripping paint from a body so gave up on that effort long ago. It always melted, became brittle or ruined the surface or all the above.
Bummer, my deepest sympathies, not even kidding. I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure crinkling is not so much because it was cold out for the last coat, but because the base coat underneath wasn't fully cured. Again, maybe talking out of my ass here, but I've read that enamels dry/cure in more of a chemical reaction (with heat as a catalyst), while acrylics dry by evaporation. I made a crappy little "drying box" that is basically a shoe box with a hole cut in the bottom, and a few kebab sticks running horizontally for the body to sit on, and then I set this on top of an old lamp with a 20w bulb. Using a laser thermometer, the body gets about 120˚. I find this significantly reduces enamel dry time.
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Old 2019.10.18, 01:52 PM   #8
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I place my jobs under a large box to keep dust from settling on them and it sat for 24+ hours before applying the second coat. Crinkling can come from many things, Swift changes in temps, bad reaction with base coat, overly thick coat causing curing agents to react to base coat, etc., etc. More often than not, Swift temp changes for me have just caused orange peel which can be buffed out to some extent or covered over later with a finish coat. Not sure what happened with this one but it went south quickly, literally watched it spread. I had lost days of work which is more of a loss than the cost of the white body. I understand the cost of the materials, i hate to loose time and effort wasted. That is far more frustrating to me than having to toss a $25 white body. Thankfully i had not gotten to deals yet so no loss there, just starting over on paint and waiting till i have a full day so that i can complete al coats in a single day.
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