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Old 2003.08.22, 06:40 PM   #1
Slicks
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magnet question(s)

I have several questions re: my motor

I am in the process of replacing the brushes on a couple of motors - this is no problem. My question is in regards to magnets. Is it possible to place a magnet in a can that is too strong/powerful or makes it diffiicult to turn the armature? I bought some PN brushes and am going to place them along with an Xspeed armature in a new BB can along with some PN magnets - I guess I need something to do.

But what about a stock armature with the PN magnets? I did try this on an old motor and the armature does not seem to turn easily - but it is powerful. The down side is that it appears to suck up battery power quicker as well. I guess my question(s) here are - is this normal and would the motor turn easier if I used a larger pinion gear?

Sorry for the ramble gram here - but my 1/10th scale truck is up and running and I am turning my attention to my Zs - again I need something to do.

Any input from the experts is appreciated!

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Old 2003.08.22, 08:07 PM   #2
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i have a question as well......when replacing the magnets, which is positive and negative? one is black and the other is poorly painted white. or does it matter?
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Old 2003.08.22, 08:39 PM   #3
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hhhmmmm......well the PN magnets I bought one is painted red on the end - I figure that that is the positive side. ???
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Old 2003.08.22, 08:48 PM   #4
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Positive and negative? I'm curious about that too...but when I bought some strive magnets, they didn't have any color codes on them. Does this really matter?

Strong magnet = high torque, low top speed

Weak magnet = low torque, high top speed

Is this correct?
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Old 2003.08.22, 09:07 PM   #5
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another queastion....how do you get the magnets out of the can?
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Old 2003.08.22, 10:35 PM   #6
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I don't know if the positive and negative magnets make a difference or not - if not then why are they color coded? This sounds like a question for Drac or NML. Re: you theory of the strong and weak magnets - again I don't know. Collectively it sounds like all of us have more questions than we do answers

RE: removing the magnets - if you look you will see a U shaped spring type clip that slides in along the bottom of the magnets. the reason why you can't see it is that the closed end is at the far end of the can. If you have a right angled type pick you can easily pull it out. Hope this helps.

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Old 2003.08.22, 10:50 PM   #7
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thanks for the u spring tip. i was chatting with drac and he helped out too it wasn't easy to get that thing back in.

drac's neo mag's are very strong! they went in easy and everything closed up nicely. i'll post a performance review in the recent overland motor thread....

4" and 6" needle nose pliers with a center punch!
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Old 2003.08.23, 03:10 AM   #8
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Putting the U spring back in isn't that hard really. You have to position it so that both ends of the u sit comfortably between the magnets and all you have to do is push it down with a small screw driver. Let the thing slide downwards using the magnets as a rail
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Old 2003.08.23, 04:27 PM   #9
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WOW - those are strong magnets!!!!

please do let me know how they work for you. One of the tracks I race on is going to do a new lay-out and have only novice and modified/experienced racer type classes for the next 10 week season. I may be in the market to beef-up a motor.
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Old 2003.08.23, 04:58 PM   #10
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I got my magnets with out the paint color codes, i actualy put the red black on my self... I did this mostly for those that buy or some how get more than one pair.... more than getting them on the right side of the motor. If for some reason you put 2 reds in the motor it would not work so great (although i have not tested this, it might work realy fast revs and low torque for all I know ) So the colors are to make sure there is at least 1 black and 1 red magnet in the motor...

If you put them backwards (if there is a backwards) and doing so reverses the motor rotation, you need simply reverse the motor wires at the car screw point... and the motor will spin the other way... only way it would realy matter is if your motor was timed for forward rotation... and the 130 motor is not nessessarily timeable...
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Old 2003.08.23, 08:40 PM   #11
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Hmm...thanks for the info Drac. Good thing i store my magnets in pairs!

I installed strive(siver) magnets on my motor before and it felt that its very hard to turn. I didn't install em into my z anymore coz i'm afraid that i'm gonna burn out my FETs. How bout you guys? Have you ever tried it?
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Old 2003.08.24, 10:51 AM   #12
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I burned out an FET several months back and I often wonder if it was due to the motor with very strong magnets that I had modified. Reason being that the FET burn out problem occured after the 2nd or 3rd time I ran the car.

I am not an electrical person ... I am more mechanical so all of this is very foriegn to me.

However - I did mod a motor the other night - - X speed armature, BB can, PN carbon brushes and PN neo-magnets. I am going to the track in a short while to attend a race committe meeting and am going to run my Z while there. SO - if it burns out I guess I'll know if strong magnets can kill an FET.

I don't see how it can due to the fact that you can add those little external neo-mags to a motor (and I have) and they don't burn out the FET. AND - I don't think that this type of product would be something that Drac would sell with out giving notice to use a turbo device when using stronger magnets.

I'll keep you posted as to the outcome.

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Old 2003.08.28, 08:16 PM   #13
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Tips on how to open a motor:

http://www.pnracing.us/change%20magnet.htm

and change magnets

Drac:

Hope this site helps about your question regarding the + and - sides of the magnet
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