pocket knife

[zumzum5150]

hi

I am new to the hobbie and would like to pick up the Pro-z pocket knife. it's about time, I change the blue skeletion chassis to carbon . Has anyone gotten a chance to race this new chassis and will it make a difference in the handling department? One of my biggest concerns is durability, can this chassis take a beating and keep going like the stock ones. Your opionions would be most appreciated.

[isk8blind]

www.pro-z.com

[Digisane]

Originally posted by zumzum5150
hi
One of my biggest concerns is durability, can this chassis take a beating and keep going like the stock ones. Your opionions would be most appreciated.

The chassis itself can take a beating, but the solder connections on the board itself couldn't. If you do get the Pro-Z i'd suggest you change every single wire to more durable ones from the servo to the board. Even then, you'd probably have to resolder every now and then, especially the battery pack. It's fun doing it now and then, but if something breaks in the middle of a competition..... uh... make sure you got a spare car..

Basically, the Pro-Z is like a 'works' racing car. That means it's built from the ground up as a racing car, and meant to be stripped down and rebuilt again after every few races. Reliability therefore would not be as good as the 'stock' ones, but it definitely improves everything else from stock.

[zumzum5150]

Digisane,

Thanks for replying back. Well, I guss I'm just gonna have to work on my soldering skills when I do pick one up. Is $50 a fair price for version 4 (CF) since version 5 is already available? I've had the version 4 on hold at the local RC store since i posted the thread. Should I go with the 4 or the 5? Sweet paint job on the NSX, rims were a nice touch. I just purchased the 2002 Mugen NSX and it's awesome, especially with the F-40 rims.


BTW: I'll be picking up a Mr-02 as a back up and for the street.

Happy Holdidays to y'all Z racers...

[Digisane]

Originally posted by zumzum5150

Thanks for replying back. Well, I guss I'm just gonna have to work on my soldering skills when I do pick one up. Is $50 a fair price for version 4 (CF) since version 5 is already available? I've had the version 4 on hold at the local RC store since i posted the thread. Should I go with the 4 or the 5?

It's up to you to decide, I think the pocket knife has more adjustable settings than the v4. I'd get the v5 if I were you.

I forgot to add that I drive the car like there's no tomorrow, so the Pro-z gets a few solders knocked out every now and then. Perhaps with good wires, soldering and a skillfull driver, they would last as long as the car itself.

Note that while I drive like there's no tomorrow, yet I havent broken any servo gears or any important parts except for solder connections.

Sweet paint job on the NSX, rims were a nice touch.

Thanks! You know, I didn't really spend too much time on painting.. the painting took only about 2 hours and another to dry in the sun. Then I immediately ran the car.

I was surprised at the results of the paint.

[zumzum5150]

Digisane

i opted to go with the V5, hopefully it shouldn't take to long to arrive. Since I'll be soldering my own battery packs any suggestion on the brand I should use for this type of chassis. I've been using Energizers and GP's.

thnx )

[Digisane]

I use Energizers. They should be no problem at all.

When making the connectors for the battery pack and the board, be sure to use a connector that can withstand a lot of heat for charging/discharging or even normal usage. Fast charge only when neccessary, because it causes alot of heat stress on them.

My connectors melted once and burned up the wires on the batt pack.

[El Tigre]

I have 3 Pro-Z's, and the durability is the same if not more durable as the stock chassis. If you are serious about racing any Mini-Z, resolder the wires with new wire or fresh solder joints, because, Pro-Z or stock, it doesnt matter, the solder joints Kyosho produces suck. I race mine every week and rarely rebuild the car from the "ground up", and I rarely encounter problems. One tip about batt. packs, charge them before you solder them together as a pack, I had fewer false peak problems after doing this. Watch the antenna wire, do not let it touch the battery pack terminals in any way, you could be saying goodbye to your range when the signal filter gets blown. Version 5 is the chassis to get, it has more adjustability. Take your time building it, dont hurry and if you have any questions just post.

[zumzum5150]

El Tigre

I'm actually waiting for the V5 to arrive sometime next week. hate payin by paypal. The shop that initially installed my fets did screw up the Signal filter, they worked on it the whole day and they still couldn't figure out what went wrong with the reception. They even made me buy another controller claiming that was the problem. Not knowing any better I went ahead and bought it.

I was at the point of putting the Z for sale AS IS when I decided to check out Tokyo Tekki, It was worth the 40 mile drive because Mike found the problem and fixed it for me. He even added another set of Fets and the car Rocks. Its now RACE worthy and most of all a keeper

Thank you for the tip on the battery packs. What would you suggest on the type of wire I should use. I know that stock wires look frail. I'll definately post more questions for you fellas

Thank goodness I didn't opt for the Xmod. Whew....

[BLiND]

FYI - battery packs for the Pro-z chassis will be in the mini-zracer.com (this site) shop this week!

[Digisane]

Originally posted by El Tigre
I have 3 Pro-Z's, and the durability is the same if not more durable as the stock chassis. If you are serious about racing any Mini-Z, resolder the wires with new wire or fresh solder joints, because, Pro-Z or stock, it doesnt matter, the solder joints Kyosho produces suck. I race mine every week and rarely rebuild the car from the "ground up", and I rarely encounter problems.

Either the solders or wires I use suck, or I drive the thing way past its limits. Occasionally, simply moving the board would result in pulling the solder loose. I think it's the wires, because all the wires here suck (they are all very stiff types).

I have broken the solder joints in the battery pack at least twice now and the connection in the servo once.

The batteries shift when I crash, causing the solders to break after some time. It doesnt matter that the the batteries are securely tightened, they still move about a bit when u crash.

In any event, I still have to take apart almost the whole car to clean it up a bit every few months. So that's about the same as 'rebuilding the car' from ground up. While doing it, I check the solders connections along with everything else and fix as necessary..

But like El Tigre said, it should be quite rare. Since I had it I only had 3 broken solders over a previod of 9 months racing the car almost every week.

[sidram]

Do not buy a pocket knife from the pro-z.com web site. I bought one 3 months aga and they will not return my emails and have never sent me the chassis I paid for. As far as I am concerned they are scammers. I paid for the chassis with paypal si I know they got the money.

[zumzum5150]

Sidram,

That's really discouraging news! I didn't purchase from the Pro Z web site, but purchased from the Mini-Z racer shop, are they one and same? Thanks....

[Free-Z]

Sidram,

The same thing happened to me 3 mo. ago! I purchased one from the site and never got it from them with no responses to my emails. So when I heard that Mini-Z Racer shop was going to carry them I sent them an email explaining my situation and they totally helped me get my ordered that I place from the Pro-Z website. The guys at the shop are great to deal with! I have no problems with any of my orders! Drop them an email with you PayPal receipt and I'm sure they can help you out.
Had my V5 for about a month now and I really love the chassis!
I guess at the time that we both ordered Pro-Z was right in the middle of the V5 production and our orders just fell through the cracks. I've got no grudge against them though, I know what it's like to go through production.

zumzum5150,

No need to worry, if you ordered from the shop you most certainly will get it! I'm sure you will be happy with your purchase the Pocketknife is a great product.

Here's a pic of mine

[zumzum5150]

Free-Z,

Whoo, what a relief...my payment went thru last week and I was kinda worried...hopefully, I'll be getting my shipment this week.

BTW, did you purchase the side springs for your set up? The car looks AWESOME!