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Old 2007.09.14, 01:28 PM   #1
yamar6
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new improved firelap 2.0

did anybody buy the new improved firelap 2.0.i just ordered one and i want to know if it is better then the black & gray chassis.
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Old 2007.09.14, 01:55 PM   #2
hrdrvr
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Yes.

Its better than the old black and grey chassis from what I can tell so far.
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Old 2007.09.14, 02:15 PM   #3
yamar6
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whats the dif. plastic better and electronics
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrdrvr
Yes.

Its better than the old black and grey chassis from what I can tell so far.
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Old 2007.09.14, 02:46 PM   #4
hrdrvr
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Overall its less gittery. The first two times I ran my old one I broke a knuckle (soft impacts), and the chassis was cracked wihtin two weeks. I drive hard, but almost always on a carpet track with foam walls. Ive got 5 Zs all older then the first FL I bought, I drive them more, and none of them have sustained any thing other than body damage. This one hasnt broken anything yet in two trips onto the track. The plastic looks a lot stronger, but I guess only time will tell.

My initial observations of things that are definatly better:

1. The electronics much smoother, throttle and servo.

2. The parts fit together much better. On my first one it was impossible to get a good gear mesh because the motor clip and pod wouldnt fit together properly. The mesh on this one was perfect out of the box.

3. Speed is noticaby stronger. Even after adding a couple of different motors to my previous one I gave up on it, because the speed was just not there. Id say this one is comprable to my dads new mr02 right out of the box, stock for stock.

4. The tires that come on it are better than the previous, and even stickier than kyoshos stock tires. I wish the front ones were a little less sticky because it gets ton of oversteer. Id rather have a little push and dial it out with suspension and driving style.


Now dont go buying 5 of these thinking they are on the same level as kyosho. :P

I have noticed a few things allready that I havent experienced with any of the Zs Ive bought:

1. The diff is so stiff, its almost like its locked. 2 Friends of mine got them at the same time and theres arent as bad, but still no where near as smooth as a K stock diff. This teamed with the super sticky front tires is making this sucker a hard one to control.

This was my first indicator that QC was not going to be perfect.

2. This was my second indicator. The first time I took the car onto the track it wouldnt start It had turns, but the motor wouldnt turn. Frustrated, I took it home and began checking things. The negative motor wire screw wasnt tight at all. Tightened it and thought I fixed the problem. It ran for about 5 minutes and quit. Then I checked the motor wires again. The solder onto the motor was barely noticable, and the negative wire was hanging on by one strand of wire. The posotive wasnt much better. After soldering them on properly, I took it for its first run at the track.

3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.

The issues Ive had with this car, I had with the other. Some of the issues I had with the other car, I dont think Im going to have (or havnet had) with this one. I still think its a good buy, and a lot better than any Xmod. The Tx is worth the price of the RTR which is why I have another in the first place.

I plan to write a formal review when I get a chance to, and it will detail all my fidnings up to that point. Id lke to track test, change out the servo saver, and tune it a little before posting anything too difinitive. Within a couple of weeks I should have a LOT of info posted about this chassis.
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Old 2007.09.14, 03:06 PM   #5
yamar6
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thanks alot for the info.i bought the blue F1 they just restocked it.so im hopeing that it's a good car.i also talked to fangel and he told me if i have any problems just email him.with the problems you had im going to put a ball diff in and kyosho moter wires so if that is the only problem then i'll be happy.thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrdrvr
Overall its less gittery. The first two times I ran my old one I broke a knuckle (soft impacts), and the chassis was cracked wihtin two weeks. I drive hard, but almost always on a carpet track with foam walls. Ive got 5 Zs all older then the first FL I bought, I drive them more, and none of them have sustained any thing other than body damage. This one hasnt broken anything yet in two trips onto the track. The plastic looks a lot stronger, but I guess only time will tell.

My initial observations of things that are definatly better:

1. The electronics much smoother, throttle and servo.

2. The parts fit together much better. On my first one it was impossible to get a good gear mesh because the motor clip and pod wouldnt fit together properly. The mesh on this one was perfect out of the box.

3. Speed is noticaby stronger. Even after adding a couple of different motors to my previous one I gave up on it, because the speed was just not there. Id say this one is comprable to my dads new mr02 right out of the box, stock for stock.

4. The tires that come on it are better than the previous, and even stickier than kyoshos stock tires. I wish the front ones were a little less sticky because it gets ton of oversteer. Id rather have a little push and dial it out with suspension and driving style.


Now dont go buying 5 of these thinking they are on the same level as kyosho. :P

I have noticed a few things allready that I havent experienced with any of the Zs Ive bought:

1. The diff is so stiff, its almost like its locked. 2 Friends of mine got them at the same time and theres arent as bad, but still no where near as smooth as a K stock diff. This teamed with the super sticky front tires is making this sucker a hard one to control.

This was my first indicator that QC was not going to be perfect.

2. This was my second indicator. The first time I took the car onto the track it wouldnt start It had turns, but the motor wouldnt turn. Frustrated, I took it home and began checking things. The negative motor wire screw wasnt tight at all. Tightened it and thought I fixed the problem. It ran for about 5 minutes and quit. Then I checked the motor wires again. The solder onto the motor was barely noticable, and the negative wire was hanging on by one strand of wire. The posotive wasnt much better. After soldering them on properly, I took it for its first run at the track.

3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.

The issues Ive had with this car, I had with the other. Some of the issues I had with the other car, I dont think Im going to have (or havnet had) with this one. I still think its a good buy, and a lot better than any Xmod. The Tx is worth the price of the RTR which is why I have another in the first place.

I plan to write a formal review when I get a chance to, and it will detail all my fidnings up to that point. Id lke to track test, change out the servo saver, and tune it a little before posting anything too difinitive. Within a couple of weeks I should have a LOT of info posted about this chassis.
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Old 2007.09.14, 03:17 PM   #6
Lunchbox1019
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I just got two of these in an RTR kit off EBay. How can I tell if I got the newer version or the older version of the Nanoracer 2.0?
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Old 2007.09.14, 07:07 PM   #7
yamar6
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all i know is the old one is light gray for the chassis and black top.the new one is dark gray chassis and real dark gray top.only toy east is selling the new ones so if it is not toy east on ebay you prob. got the old ones.i heard that the old one looks like the black was painted on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchbox1019
I just got two of these in an RTR kit off EBay. How can I tell if I got the newer version or the older version of the Nanoracer 2.0?
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Old 2007.09.14, 07:36 PM   #8
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I dont think the black looks painted on (on the old ones). The chassis is a light grey where the new ones is black, IMO. In the Iwaiver forum I have an old thread titled 'ordered a Firelap 2.0'. There are tons of pics of the older chassis.

Bad news though. The car wouldnt move again today. I drive it around a few laps, then switched the front tires. After that, - had no throttle. There muat be another loose connection some where. This makes me doubt more the increased QC.

It got worse. The Tx only had reverse on one of the 10 settings, and a few of them had steering issues. Wether I turned left or right, the wheels turned right. I had fresh batts, but Im going to try out more thid weekend. I also tried it on multiple cars that drove fine on other Txs.
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Old 2007.09.14, 08:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrdrvr
.....
3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.
.....
As a note you can usually fix the servo saver instead of replacing it. I use a knife and just push it down on the joint on both sides. Usually with enough force you can get it to snap apart and it will work fine. Just be really careful when taking the car apart to get to the servo saver, it is really easy to break off one of those thin wires.
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Old 2007.09.14, 11:19 PM   #10
yamar6
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do you have pics of the new chassis
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrdrvr
I dont think the black looks painted on (on the old ones). The chassis is a light grey where the new ones is black, IMO. In the Iwaiver forum I have an old thread titled 'ordered a Firelap 2.0'. There are tons of pics of the older chassis.

Bad news though. The car wouldnt move again today. I drive it around a few laps, then switched the front tires. After that, - had no throttle. There muat be another loose connection some where. This makes me doubt more the increased QC.

It got worse. The Tx only had reverse on one of the 10 settings, and a few of them had steering issues. Wether I turned left or right, the wheels turned right. I had fresh batts, but Im going to try out more thid weekend. I also tried it on multiple cars that drove fine on other Txs.
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Old 2007.09.15, 02:13 PM   #11
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Yes, but not uploaded yet. Ill get some up for you monday.
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Old 2007.09.16, 10:39 PM   #12
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Lunchbox1019,

I would like to inform you that you properly got the old version, since we only started to ship the new version in less then a month and we have not put it on ebay, so the one you got is properly the old version.

Hrdrvr,
I have reflected the problem with the soldering and the wire to the factory, and we will be making a change to them to help increase the stability and durability of the chassis.
I'm not quiet sure about the issue the one of the mode, I'm not sure if you want to try this, but you could reset your transmitter with holding the "+/-" buttons down and turning on the TX. This might solved the problem for you.

Yamar6 and Hrdrvr,
I have looked in the stock diff issue, and I understand what has been going on. Some of the stock diff has too much lubricant on it making it very difficult to rotate, clearing some of it out will help deal with the issue. By getting the fairly cheap upgrade diff with solve this problem once and for all.

Pinwc4,
That is one way to help split the servo saver, this should give much more protection to the servo.

hrdrvr,
I would like to thank you for your review and some suggestions. I have mark down and will look into many of the issue to help improve the product for the community.
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Old 2007.09.17, 10:12 AM   #13
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I race with Hrdrvr and had the same problem with my controller (Newer one with module) stopped working on all but one mode and wouldn't work correctly in that mode. I had the older IWAVER controller with out the module so I went back to using it. Fangel if I understand I can reset the transmitter by holding the "+/-" buttons down at the same time as I turn on the TX .I plan to try this and will let you know the results.
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Old 2007.09.17, 02:51 PM   #14
yamar6
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i have the same radio from my nanodragon 2 buggy.i had no problems yet not even with the car.i hope that my F1 runs as good as the buggy.it takes to long to get something from t@yeast.
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Old 2007.09.17, 03:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamar6
i have the same radio from my nanodragon 2 buggy.i had no problems yet not even with the car.i hope that my F1 runs as good as the buggy.it takes to long to get something from t@yeast.
Do you use it for multiple vehicles? The problems 2EZ and I are having didnt show up until we started messing with the different model settings.

I think toyeast was pretty darn fast coming from all the way across the world. My last shipment got to me in 10 days, 5 of which were holliday or weekend.
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