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Old 2008.07.14, 08:36 PM   #16
locwan
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Originally Posted by ruf View Post
An old toothbrush is the way to go. When it gets dirty, you should probably stop brushing your teeth with it too...

As for the latest 3Racing diff, I'll let Cristian chime in on that one. As I understand it, they are similar to the original Atomic diffs, which have their drawbacks, but are still effective and probably the lightest solution around.

Cristian has already done a rebuild/build-up of the new Atomic T.A.R. diffs in our World Championship AWD build-up article, but is expanding it to include the Kyosho ring gear and other choices to make for a low-drag, yet durable drivetrain.
Yea, they look exactly the same to me in terms of design.. however the problem that I had with them is their molded plastic outdrives. (the shorter side of the outdrives) are too thick to fit the diff bearings on.. and once pushed in by force, it clamps down on the dog-bone of the universals affecting suspension movements.

I had to make a hybrid and use the old ATM diff outdrives on these new diffs in order to now completely waste my money :
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Old 2008.07.15, 01:44 AM   #17
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Just a question, why use green slime? And why lube the diff rings?

Ideaçly you want the diff rings as clean as possible, as they sort of work as 'clutch plates' and you don't want them slipping.
I can't tell the difference in smoothness between the clear and green one. The only thing I noticed is that, they kept the bearings lube longer than the clear once. I only use my AWD for race. I don't even practice with it due to the fact that this thing is very high maintenance $.

You mean plates slipping on the out drives like the MR02 plates? The AWD baff diffs has a slot on it that won't make the plate slip. If this is what you're referring to... I haven't seen anyone not greasing their plates.

Last edited by Tjay; 2008.07.15 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 2008.07.15, 06:45 AM   #18
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I meant the plates slipping against the balls. From my experience from 10th scale touring you want the diff plates clean so they can 'grip' the diff balls better. That's why you sand the plates to give it a rough finish instead of polishing them, which would slip more.
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Old 2008.07.15, 11:08 AM   #19
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Green slime is not a lube. It's typically used as a fluid seal for o-rings. Originally used as a tire puncture seal. I prefer true diff lube - thicker stuff such as the old school Yokomo super diff lube (no longer available). I use lube on the diff balls and on the center of the spur where it rides on the diff shaft. Rarely will I lube the rings.
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Old 2008.07.15, 11:21 AM   #20
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i put a dab of grease on the back of the rings to aid assembly,slight haze on the balls as mentioned

great idea on the tyre grip trick,done a diff for a customer last night and i still have fingerprints left!!!
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Old 2008.07.15, 11:42 AM   #21
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It may make it a little easier to assemble the diff, but I don't like to use lube on the back of the rings since it can cause the rings to slip against the diff housings. I find that this can be an issue especially with sanded rings allowing you to run the diff setting loose. If any slip happens you want it to happen to happen between the balls and the rings, not the rings and the diff housings. Sometimes I'll actually use an old 1/12 trick and superglue the rings to the diff housings. I find it pretty easy to just build the diff standing up and down, kinda like a sandwich. It can even been done while the diff is still in the car on an MR02.
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Old 2008.07.15, 11:49 AM   #22
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I meant the plates slipping against the balls. From my experience from 10th scale touring you want the diff plates clean so they can 'grip' the diff balls better. That's why you sand the plates to give it a rough finish instead of polishing them, which would slip more.
So, pretty much just lube the balls only... Now, I'm anxious to try it. Thanks for your input !
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Old 2008.07.15, 12:37 PM   #23
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i know it is not an awd but does this also apply to a 2wd ball diff? should i assemble it with dry plates????
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Old 2008.07.15, 12:43 PM   #24
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Think Ducati dry clutch...

Lubing the rings on the diff ball side is a preference thing...
Lubing the rings on the diff housing side is a no-no in my opinion.
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Old 2008.07.15, 12:57 PM   #25
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if the centre of the rings is D shaped they wont slip,i wouldnt lube the output side of normal o shape plates,most of the lube spins out on the first drive anyway,then its a case of a small re-adjustment.
i used to glue mine down in 1/10th untill they started using D rings,i miss those days
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Old 2008.07.15, 12:57 PM   #26
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This is such a great idea that Alberto shared. I honestly have not seen any mini-z'ers run their plates dry. They've always put lube on it. I know there's a lot of people that didn't know about this either. Also, sometime back in 2003 when I use to race this mini-z at my work's docking area, I swear I've seen a rebuild instruction manual that states to put lube on the plates but that was yeeeaaarrsss ago...

I will update the picture/tut later on after my lunch... ( I will disassemble my awd rearend at lunch and post the update )
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Old 2008.07.15, 01:41 PM   #27
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Yea, they look exactly the same to me in terms of design.. however the problem that I had with them is their molded plastic outdrives. (the shorter side of the outdrives) are too thick to fit the diff bearings on.. and once pushed in by force, it clamps down on the dog-bone of the universals affecting suspension movements.

I had to make a hybrid and use the old ATM diff outdrives on these new diffs in order to now completely waste my money :
I'm sorry to hear that! Did you purchase them from us? If so, please shoot us an email, and we'll make it right. We will also test to see if we can replicate the issue, and then feed that information back to 3Racing. 3Racing makes some great stuff, but every now and then, they make a slip up in QC. That's the reason we won't sell their "golden" kingpins (which are awesome) until they make a new batch to the proper specs.
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